Is fuel "polishing" worth the trouble??

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Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
bRobins recent post got me thinking. In a recirculating diesel fuel system the fuel is constantly getting run through a filter to remove water and contaminants. So given that the fuel is already being polished what does "polishing" do that the system doesn't already provide? The onlt thing I could see that would make sense is total fuel removal to a tank to get everything out of the bottom of the tank, Clean out the tank if accessible, then run it, the fuel, through a water separator filter to put it back in. Am I missing something in my thinking?
 
Sep 29, 2008
1,938
Catalina 310 #185 Quantico
Polishing typically ...

is something done to clean out the tank. In this an external hose and pump is brought in where one hose sprays the fuel back into the tank at high pressure to agitate and loosen things up and the other hose sucks the fuel out and runs it through a series of filters before spraying it back into the tank at high pressure. The folks I know who have had this done have been very happy with it, and needed it due to contamination and algae build up. I have seen a few places in the magazines and online advertise fuel polishing, but it looks like all they are doing is adding an extra filter on for dubious improvement. My $0.02.
 
Dec 1, 1999
2,391
Hunter 28.5 Chesapeake Bay
I personally think that fuel polishing, and fuel tank cleaning, are two separate actions. Most fuel external polishers seem to suck out your existing fuel, filter it one way or another, and pump it back into your tank (perhaps repeating this a number of times). While pumping the "polished" fuel back into your tank may, or may not, dislodge accumulated crud in there, to really clean your fuel tank innards requires being able to get your hand in there with a scrub brush/scrapper, or similar device. Internal, or recirculating "polishing" systems, would seem to replicate what your primary and secondary filters ought to be doing. If they are changed at proper intervals, and you use some care in selecting your fuel (I filter all fuel going into the tank using a Baha like water/crud separating filter), I don't seem what an internal system adds.

FWIW, a friend of mine with a 1986 Pearson 28-II, with a 15 gal diesel tank had his fuel "polished" last year at a cost of around $400. And soon afterward his engine problems began. After a lot of tows back to his slip after his engine quit, he discovered the fuel polishing had dislodged, but had not removed some sludge from his tank. This stuff would roll around in the tank until they balled up and clogged the fuel uptake tube. Back at the slip, this stuff would then drop to the bottom and the engine would run fine -- until the next time he stirred it up by going sailing again. In the end, he had to have an access port installed in his tank and the tank properly cleaned out. He spent a lot of money, lost most of a season, lost confidence in his engine -- all to "polish" a small number of gallons of diesel. He would have been better off to just put in a new fuel tank and some new fuel. Would I "polish" my fuel? I don't think so....
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Am I missing something in my thinking?
Except perhaps for the old GM 71 series engines, the amount of return fuel isn't nearly enough to be significant to fuel filtering. Even if it were, it's going through the same low capacity surface filters that will stop your engine if they clog. The size specification of filters is statistical so your typical 10 mu filter will pass some larger particles that are hard on your engine. As pressure increases with the filter loading up, the number of these larger particles will increase since many can extrude through the element under sufficient pressure.

Judging by the startling cleanlieness of my tank, filters, and sediment bowls, two seasons of experience with my simple on board fuel polishing system

http://www.rogerlongboats.com/FOpolishing.htm

the rather modest investment was very worthwhile. The fuel is separately filtered by an industrial filter whenever the engine is running. The capacity of this filter is only about 4 times that of the Racor but it is a depth filter and so removes smaller and smaller particles as it loads up. Elements are also 1/10 the cost. Cleaning up just one load of very bad fuel with a dual Racor set up could cost you as much as I paid for my whole set up.

An important aspect of the on-board system is the higher fuel suction rate from the tank. This high flow will pick stuff up off the bottom much more readily than any diesel fuel pump, even with a high return rate. My Yanmar BTW, sends no fuel back to the tank.

My system is set up so that turning a single valve in the event of the regular engine filter clogging up will send fuel immediately to the engine by redirecting the polishing system flow and let me then isolate and change the Racor element. I can also change the polishing filter without shutting down so have all the benifits of the common dual filter set up except that one of the elements is a 2 buck item instead of a 20 buck item.

This is all a completely separate issue from "Tank Polishing" which is necessary when a neglected fuel system has let a very thick layer of biofilm build up on the tank sides and the bottom of the tank fill up with sludge. That situation must be addressed by a tank cleaning service or a lot of hard messy manual work if you have sufficient tank access. Once the tank is clean however, a simple on board polishing system will keep it that way for years longer and let you self recover from a load of bad fuel picked up at a marina that is not paying attention to their fuel system (of which there are many).

I have also used Startron in conjunction with my system. It seems to work well judging by how fast my filters plugged up the first time I put it in. This was before installing my polishing system and what prompted my interest in the subject. I like it because it is a non-toxic enzyme. Motoring in rough seas with the tank 1/4 to half full and the polishing system running really seems to clean off the tank walls if the bio film build up is just beginning.

How'd I do Rich? (From who I learned all this)
 
Jun 3, 2004
418
Island Packet Island Packet 29 West River, MD
Clean The Tank

Dave,

IMO you're better off to remove the fuel and clean out the tank yourself if you have the time. I agree with Warren. I can't see how removing the crud off the tank walls while the fuel is still in the tank will remove all of it. I can see it floating around in little pieces after it's blasted off the walls waiting to get sucked into the fuel lines latter.

I did the fuel removal clean the tank thing two years ago. It was very simpe to do (if you can access the tank) and I have a 100% clean tank on my 1983 boat. I went to an auto parts store and bought an inexpensive fuel pump for diesels ($28 for a 3 GPM pump). I mounted it on a piece of wood. Run clear plastic hose from one side of the pump into your tank and from the other side into whatever clean containers you can find (I purchsed four 5 gallon yellow fuel containers from Home Depot at about $18 each). The other thing I did was to include a fuel filter in the loop on the suction side. Cut an access hole in the tank and pump out all the fuel. Then clean out the tank by hand. There was a lot of crap inside mine. While you're in there remove the screen from the bottom of the fuel hose pick up. I then purchased a cover from Seabuilt for about $150 to cover the access hole. I tried a regular plastic access plate at first but it kept leaking. Seabuilt was recommended by Dan Johnson and it was worth the money to do the job right. Before I put the fuel back in I ran each five gallon container thru the filter on the board for about an hour to clean it.

The whole project cost me about $275 and maybe 4-5 hours time (not including cleaning the fuel before putting it back into the clean tank). If you already have clean containers to store the fuel you just saved $70+. I recommend the Seabuilt covers though. I also buy my fuel from a service station and haul it to the boat now (Warren's suggestion). Before I put in into the tank I use the filter system I built and run it through for an hour or so just as a precaution.

Good luck with your decision.

Joe Mullee
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
I can't see how removing the crud off the tank walls while the fuel is still in the tank will remove all of it.
It won't. I watched the reputable fuel polisher we used to have here in Portland do it. He's now out of business, the usual price of doing things right.

He pumped all of the fuel out of the tank filtering it into a 55 gallon barrel. The filtered fuel was then sprayed at high pressure against the inside tank surfaces with a wand while being sucked out nearly as fast and refiltered. The fuel went through many filter passes before the task was done.

The filtered fuel was then returned to tank.

Someone may contract to "Polish your fuel" and just run it through a filter a few times. They are doing exactly what they say they are doing but it won't do much about the tank problem.

If someone contracts to "Polish your tank", they had better be doing all of the above. The unscrupulous can make money on the semantic difference as evidently happened in the post above.

Proper cleaning can work wonders. The engine on the boat I bought would barely run as the fuel system had been sitting full of fuel for 6 years without proper layup. The engine dealer out in Detroit where I bought the boat wanted to sell me new injectors and a new injector pump but I worked out a deal to have the work done after trucking the boat here to Maine. The yard here simply went through the process above and replaced the lift pump (the diaphram of which had disolved into black sludge) after which the engine has run like new for 3 seasons.
 
Jul 20, 2005
2,422
Whitby 55 Kemah, Tx
Yes, fuel polishing is different from tank cleaning. Tank cleaning doesn't protect you from that last fillup you just got that was full of water or junk. Your filters will only protect you so much and then they clog and usually at the totally wrong time. I don't have a polishing system but after having problems with a fillup, I want one soooo bad.
 
Dec 1, 1999
2,391
Hunter 28.5 Chesapeake Bay
Roger:
I guess I could see using the system you have (1) if I were really unsure of the quality of the fuel in the tank or that I was buying (like being a long-range cruiser and refueling at various ports along the way), (2) if the fuel was as old as yours was (6 yrs old) and (3) I suspected water was in the fuel. But before I invested in yet another system to maintain on my boat, I'd (1) pump out and get rid of all the old fuel, (2) clean out the tank by hand, (3) change the primary and secondary filters, a number of times if necessary. I use a $100 total resuable and unfailable Baha to filter water or particulates from any fuel that goes into my boat. My primary and secondary filters having 30 and 2 micron ratings, respectively. On the rare occasion (+/- every 3 years) that I look at the secondary (Yanmar 2GM20F), it is totally pristine and so I often wonder why I bothered opening the housing to look at it. I change the primary annually and it only moderately dirty. In the 7 years I have been doing this with my current boat, I have never once had any evidence of water in the fuel.

Certainly old fuel is old fuel. Polishing old fuel results in having clean old fuel. I find it interesting that the fuel polisher you noted in your post above is out of business "as a cost of doing things right." I think it works just the other way around in my experience: the word gets out about shady operators and they disappear. People flock to those with known reputations for "doing it right."
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
bRobins recent post got me thinking. In a recirculating diesel fuel system the fuel is constantly getting run through a filter to remove water and contaminants. So given that the fuel is already being polished what does "polishing" do that the system doesn't already provide? The onlt thing I could see that would make sense is total fuel removal to a tank to get everything out of the bottom of the tank, Clean out the tank if accessible, then run it, the fuel, through a water separator filter to put it back in. Am I missing something in my thinking?
What you are missing is that the normal fuel return back to a tank is extremely low flow. Such low flow (of filtered return fuel) has virtually zero effect on the reduction of tank particles ... by dilution with the small amount of 'return' flow.
Recirculation polishing depends on the 'newtonian exponential laws of decay /dilution' ... using LARGE amounts of fuel passing though LARGE µM filters.
Your 'return system' has virtually NO flow - typically a few cc's per minute. How long will it take for a 50 gallon tank fouled tank (@ ~1000's of 1 to 20µM particles per cc) to be completely filtered when the 'filtered' return is at 25 cc/min?
Answer: INFINITE TIME... 'nutherwords, it wont do the job.
Reason: the small amount of 'return' fuel is DILUTING the almost INFINITE amount of Particles at an INFINITELY SMALL rate.

Properly designed recirculation polishers, to be efficient, are HIGH FLOW devices (typically 1-3 gallon per MINUTE per 100 gallon tank) and use filters which have at least 5-10 times LARGER µM retention than the smallest retention of the 'fuel delivery filter set'.

Recirculation polishers depend almost entirely on TANK VOLUME **TURNOVER** - rapidly filtering through 'crude' very large retention µM and returning LARGE AMOUNTS of fuel. Filters made for fuel oil are not very 'precise' in their retention.
A 2µM 'nominally rated' filter will typically pass 5-10% of 15-20µM particles and will capture probably 5% of 0,1 to 0,2µM particles.
The most damaging particle in a diesel system is probably in the range of 20µM. Most engine manufacturers place a 'last chance' or "guard" filter on the engine - rated at 2µM 'nominal' rating which is about 15-20µM at 100% retention.

At constant delivery pressure, A 15-20µM rated filter will allow TEN TIMES the flow rate of a 2µM filter. A 15-20µM filter will have probably 10% of its 'pores' capturing at 2µM.
Recycle the SAME fuel 10 times through the SAME 15-20µM filter (removing 2µM particles by 10-15% at each 'pass') and the fuel RAPIDLY becomes 'very clean' because of the 'dilution rate' in the tank. Continue to recycle the same fuel at the high rate, and even smaller and smaller particles become retained in the filter and the fuel in the tank eventually becomes 'crystal clear'.

If you depend on the 'return' (filtered at say 2µM (nominal rating)) to clean the fuel ... and that 'return' is only a few (25-50) cc's flow rate ... not a very large DILUTION rate of particles going on INSIDE the tank.

So, well designed recirculation polishers, depend on HIGH FLOW RATE, using very 'open' µM filters to ****rapidly**** DILUTE the particles IN the tank. BTW very 'open' higher µM rated filters are CHEAP.

A recirculation polisher WILL NOT clean a tank !!!! Only regular maintenance and physical scrubbing will clean a tank. A recirculation polisher will help to keep a tank clean and particle free by constantly removing the 'nucleation sites' upon which these particles GROW.
Fungus contamination of the oil is the PRIME reason for most of 'boat' fuel system problems. Boat tankage is small, warm, accessible to humid air. Fungals (Cladosporium Resinae, etc.) in diesel oil, aspirated in from the ambient air during tank draw-down, etc., are RESIN FORMERS using the fuel oil as their nutrient source and which deposit the resins and thick microscopic 'filamentous' mats (mycelium) on the tank walls. As the mycelium filaments accumulate and then later die they breakdown into soft/deformable particles and 'gels'. These small particles continue to 'agglomerate' - small particles coming together forming larger and larger particles (seemingly to GROW into larger size). Water (free water, emulsified water & water vapor) accelerates the growth. Such growth is exponential, the more the contamination the faster the growth. A clean(ed) tank will have minimal spores and growth on which to form more and more particles; once a tank forms the contamination deposits on the walls - you can easily generate a 'particle storm' inside the tank.

With respect to the PRIMARY/SECONDARY/ENGINE GUARD FILTER: Such 'soft/deformable' particles are ROYAL BITCH to filter, as they easily 'slime over' or form a 'slimey bridge' at the upstream surfaces of filter media, blocking the flow INTO the media. Such particles, under increasing differential pressure across the filter, easily are extruded through the filter media ... only to be captured by the next (and at smaller µM retention) filter in the series. The agglomeration process continues at the face of each next filter(s) in the series and the 'problem' gets worse the further downstream in the filter 'train' as you go from larger retention to smaller retention. The higher the differential pressure across the filters the worse the problem becomes. The Rx with respect to filtration efficiency is to use the LARGEST SURFACE AREA filter available and the LARGEST µM filter retention rating to do the job !!!! If one somehow thinks that smaller µM retention filtration is 'better' ... it will 'blind off' exponentially FASTER in a contaminated system.
A recirculation polisher removes such particles BEFORE they enter the 'fuel delivery system filters', thus greatly lessening their chance of becoming fouled.


Attachment is a typical system with a high flow recirculation polisher. 100 gallon system is 'bomb proof' in that it contains a constantly filled emergency 'day tank' that can be switched to 'gravity feed' if necessary and will allow flow to the engine for several HOURS. Its also a PRESSURE FEED system which is vastly more efficient (filter performance and hydrodynamics) but requires double flared tubing connections, etc. etc. - so you if you have a leak you dont fill the bilge or the harbor with oil. Attachment is copyrighted with all rights reserved.
 

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RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
me. I don't have a polishing system but after having problems with a fillup, I want one soooo bad.
The BEST way to prevent putting fouled fuel into your boat:
Before filling your tank from 'suspect' sources, Get a clean glass, pour some of the fuel into it and hold the glass between your eyeball and a source of BRIGHT light. If you see ANY 'cloudiness' in the fuel, stop fueling and move to a source that sells CLEAN/UNFOULED fuel.

Crystal clear fuel will have the majority particles no larger than .2µM to 0,45µM. 'Cloudy' fuel or fuel that shows a 'haze' is GROSSLY contaminated.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Roger:
I guess I could see using the system you have (1) if I were really unsure of the quality of the fuel in the tank or that I was buying (like being a long-range cruiser and refueling at various ports along the way)
I installed my system in anticipation of going to Newfoundland. Having done so, cost and maintenance are so minimal in the overall scheme of things, I can't see any reason not to have one.

On the rare occasion (+/- every 3 years) that I look at the secondary (Yanmar 2GM20F), it is totally pristine and so I often wonder why I bothered opening the housing to look at it.
Wonder no more. The long term soaking in fuel and flexing from pump pulses can cause the filter to break at a pleat and send unfiltered fuel into your engine. The elements should be replaced every year regardless of how the look when you take them out.

As for buying from good sources, that's great for the daysailer in a heavily urbanized area with many fuel docks. I'll often pull into a dock with no options but to either put in what they have or sail away.
 
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RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
I'll often pull into a dock with not options but to either put in what they have or sail away.
In such situations with a recirculation polisher, you can remedy most 'bad/dirty' fuel situations in about an hour or two ... and then be quite confident that your costly delivery system filters wont become 'challenged/plugged'. Just 'recirculate away' for some time until the fuel becomes clear and without 'haze', etc.

Unless you apply a water absorbing desiccant filter, or a specialized water absorbing filter (filled with a starch such as hydroxymethylcellulose, etc.) you WILL have water in your fuel, maybe water in emulsion form or other 'non-free' or 'non-visible' water but there WILL be water. Fuel oil filters are made from resin bonded cellulose (resin impregnated 'technical' filter paper). Ultimately that filter media cellulose WILL eventually absorb the water, will eventually soften and eventually become very weak .... and then ultimately begin to 'digest' under 'long term' conditions.
A change-out every year is a good policy.
This digestion 'can' happen in systems that are very water saturated and well before a year in service ... and you can (should) monitor if a pleat, etc. breaks when you suddenly see that the vacuum/pressure gage on the filter housing suddenly 'changes' (ie.: starts dropping to zero). Of course if you have NO gages, you will have absolutely NO idea of WHEN to Change, or If a filter is 'bypassing' or has a 'breakthrough'. Without gages the only time that you will know there is something wrong will be when your engine suddenly and without warning ... stops.

:)
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
I wonder , Since only a fraction of the fuel that is supplied to my injector is burned and the rest is returned to the tank and from there through the fuel filters and back to the engine and then to the tank. Am I not continuously polishing the fuel? After a long day of motoring the fuel in my tank is quite warm indicating to me that it has been warmed by several trips throught the fuel system.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
In such situations with a recirculation polisher, you can remedy most 'bad/dirty' fuel situations in about an hour or two
I do that whenever I can even if I don't suspect the fuel. Fuel up in the evening and then run the polishing system for about an hour. The pump is on a 3 position switch, Auto (runs whenever the engine does), ON (run when a main panel switch is also on), and OFF.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
I wonder , Since only a fraction of the fuel that is supplied to my injector is burned and the rest is returned to the tank and from there through the fuel filters and back to the engine and then to the tank. Am I not continuously polishing the fuel? After a long day of motoring the fuel in my tank is quite warm indicating to me that it has been warmed by several trips throught the fuel system.
Yes you are but this will only be effective if you have time that is approaching infinity.
Whats the maximum return volumertic flow rate, the size of your tank, the engine HP or actual fuel consumption at cruise rpm ... ?

The problem is that the return, unless you have a Bosch high pressure system with a high flow active return, is that for a small hp diesel you will probably only be putting a max of 25 to 40 cc per minute into the return line. If a Yanmar, there is no argument as Yannis have virtually zero return flow.

Assuming a 30 gallon tank, a 30 cc/min return, 30 Hp engine ...... .
30 X 3785 = 113K cc of tankage.
113550/30cc/min = 3785 min 3785/60 = 63 hours to turnover the entire contents of the tank through the filters via return. But the return line with clean fuel is only 'diluting' the remaining particulate content of the tank, so probably you will need (WAG estimate of newtonian laws of decay) ~150-200 hours of recirculation at 30 cc/min.
A 30 hp diesel usually consumes somewhere near .5 to 75 gallons per hour 30 gal/.5 = 60 hours of fuel.

If the 'assumptions' are close, your engine will consume the oil faster than you can 'recirculation filter' depending on the return line.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
I have a ten horse power Volvo with a Bosch fuel systen and a 40 liter tank. As stated, after prolonged running the tank is quite warm and is completely remote from the engine heat. i rarely run at more than 60 percent load.
 
Jul 20, 2005
2,422
Whitby 55 Kemah, Tx
I have a ten horse power Volvo with a Bosch fuel systen and a 40 liter tank. As stated, after prolonged running the tank is quite warm and is completely remote from the engine heat. i rarely run at more than 60 percent load.
that's not good for your engine...you should target at least 70% for the marjority of the time and every now and then 90% for 10-30 minutes.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
that's not good for your engine...you should target at least 70% for the marjority of the time and every now and then 90% for 10-30 minutes.
I keep hearing that on this forum but it doesn't agree with my dealer's counsel or with the boatdiesel forum.
 
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