Help putting in a simple solar setup for my C-22

dlochner · 2025-10-15T04:12:46-0700

A few general comments.

Begin with identifying the number of circuits you need and how much power you will consume. Everything in an electrical system flows from this information. There will be some guess work in this, just make your best estimate.

For the most part AC is unnecessary, unless you have specific items that need charging and you only have an AC charger. In that case a small 150 watt inverter is all you need. I use mine for charging the laptop and power tools. Some electronics will work better with a pure sine wave inverter.

Generally soldering is not advised on a boat. Soldering causes a hard spot at the end of the soldered joint. Because there is a lot of vibration and movement in a boat soldered wire can work harden and break at the joint. Use good quality heat sealed crimp connections.

Spend some time on MarineHowTo.com, there is a wealth of information on the site about electrical systems.

garymalmgren · 2025-10-15T05:22:58-0700

Hi Carl.
I sail a 25 footer with an ancient inboard diesel.
I have two (cheap) lead acid batteries. One to start and one for house.
I have two small solar systems that are completely separated with cheap controllers.
Here is my take on your situation.
RE: some simple stuff for boating and boat camping

1. Reduce your consumption as much as you can.
internal lights = a headlamp and a kerosene hurricane lamp.
RE: led strip lights w/remote . Forget it!
Nav equipment = a tablet with a chart plotting app. A depth sounder.
Nav lights= one LED mast head light with stern port/starboard. An anchor light that you can hoist up the forestay.

2. Charging. I am in a pen that faces north / south.
My panels are oriented south and I adjust the angle over the seasons.
So when I step aboard the batteries are charged.
I have two headlamps that charge from USB, which are also always charged.
I have a tablet which is charged from USB and is charged and ready to go.
Any solar panel that you fit will NOT charge at the rate advertised. Simply. if they are mounted on your house roof they will always be oriented.
However on a boat at anchor or underway you have the problems of orientation. angle and shading.

3. Batteries. If you reduce your demand and have fully charged batteries when you set out you will have 4 or 5 days or more on lead acid batteries. However, if you drain them down or do not keep them well maintained they will not last and will end up costing you money and hassles. Simply put. lead acid batteries are not made for the slow, constant load with no strong charging option.

4. Panels and controllers = RE: (hard style, not flexible) Why?
I have one small hard panel the is mounted to face south in the pen and one 50 watt flex panel that is stored below when actually sailing.
I could not imagine storing a hard panel below.
I just replaced my flex panel with a generic Chinese one from Alibaba.
Charge controllers are cheap, protect your panel and battery (to a certain extent) and usually have two USB ports to charge up what ever you need.

To Wrap up.
Don't get sucked in to the "gotta have stuff trip"
Small cheap Lithium battery.
50 watt flex solar penal with cheap charger.
Minimum electrical load.
As many accessories that you can charge of USB ( at home or aboard) .
Head out as often as you can.
Here is my latest trip.
gary

kloudie1 · 2025-10-15T12:38:55-0700

Here is a little panel and controller :
Amazon.com : SUNER POWER 30W 12V Solar Battery Charger Maintainer, Built-in Smart MPPT Charge Controller, Adjustable Mount Bracket, Waterproof 30 Watt Solar Panel Kits for Car Automotive Boat Marine RV Trailer : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Don't rule out lithium, they are about the same price as aa good lead acid and are lighter and much longer lasting. You'd probably do well with one of these:
Amazon.com : 100 amp hour lithium battery 12v

Then something like this:
Amazon.com: Upgrade Blue 5 Gang Marine Boat Rocker Switch Panel Circuit Breakers, Waterproof Switch Panel with 15A Inline Fuse for Truck RV, Digital Voltmeter USB Charger Port DC 12 Volt Power Outlet Socket : Sports & Outdoors

jssailem · 2025-10-15T16:38:55-0700

I purchased a 50 watt panel from Home Depot. It was built by GrapeSolar. An efficient panel generates an average 39 watts per hour during the summer. I attached a Victron MPPT to the panel, and it produces enough energy to charge a 100 amp hour WattCycle Mini Battery from 30% to full charge in 2-3 sunny days.

Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 75V 15 amp 12/24-Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) $67
Grape Solar50-Watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel for RV's, Boats and 12V Systems. $69
MOLLOM 3 Way Circuit Breaker MCB Distribution Protection Box with DIN Rail, IP65 Waterproof, for Indoor and Outdoor $11
Various wires and a circuit breaker to turn the panel on and off.

I now know that I will need at least 200-300 watts of panel solar to support my power demands.

thinwater · 2025-10-15T19:19:57-0700

Carl Wonderful said:
Hello,

I have a 1971 Catalina 22. I want to put in a simple solar setup...maybe 30 - 50 watts total. I don't need anything fancy, just looking for some tried and true gear (classic, simple, sturdy setup) to power some simple stuff for boating and boat camping. No fridge or anything hungry like that. I'm in PA. The boat has no battery currently and just some random wires that are probably not even usable.

Any recommendations on a specific brand/models/kit....

-solar panel 30 - 50 watts (hard style, not flexible)
-Battery (Probably just go with a tried and true lead Battery, no need to go lithium)
- Wires
- Charger controller
- led strip lights w/remote

Also there is no Real need for a Converter to convert from DC to AC in a boat right?

Also I still have the original control/circuit box which I think is cool...but don't like the idea of having to use the old fuses. Any options. I saw the Catalina direct one but don't like the looks of it and its probably overkill for me. I'd like to maybe do a sort of DIY electrical box or something. I'm good with soldering and have lots of switches and electrical parts like that already as I make guitar pedals and stuff from scratch..? I dunno...

THANKS!
Jaison

Super Simple 50W solar. 24' boat.

Nav lights. At least an anchor light. Do NOT try to DIY the nav lights. It is too hard to get the sectors right (see COLREGS annex) and the US requires USCG cert lights.
While you are doing lights, add a cockpit light. Very handy.
You won't believe how handy a tiller pilot is when singlehanded.
USB charging ports. Then you can use a phone and tablet for lots of things.

I'd get a simple book on 12v boat wiring so that you don't have to reinvent every idea. But yes, keep it simple in a small boat.

Project_Mayhem · 2025-10-16T05:33:30-0700

If you want to save on controller costs while making your batteries last for years, look for a Morningstar charger on ebay. I had a 100w panel with two 6A Morningstar controllers. Despite the fact that the batteries were well past their prime, I had no issues powering whatever I wanted. The batteries were always full the next day.

Six amp controllers were overkill for a 100w panel

BarryL · 2025-10-16T12:19:53-0700

Hello,

You need to figure out what electronic gear you want and how often you will use them. Then you can design the solar solution.

A very basic system would have
A small 12V battery (you might as well get a LiFePO4 battery, they are cheap now)
1 or 2 interior lights. LED of course, It would be nice to have units that can be white or red
Maybe a tiller pilot
Navigation lights (if you ever plan on sailing at night)
The ability to charge phone, tablet, portable lantern, headlamps, handheld VHF.
solar panel and controller.

Defender and other companies sell kits and complete portable systems.

https://defender.com/en_us/go-power-eco-series-solar-panel-system-20w-gp-eco-20

https://defender.com/en_us/go-power-portable-solar-panel-kit-90w-gp-psk-90

If you shop around you can find much cheaper kits.

I bought the PSK90 a few years ago. My boat is on a mooring. When I was done sailing I would connect the panel and lay it in the cockpit. When I came back a few days later the house batteries would be fully charged. This year I wanted something with more power and more permanently mounted. I bought 2 100W panels and mounted them on my dodger. I installed solar controller inside. The panels are not generating nearly as much power as they should be (I think one panel is bad) but my batteries get charged quickly and easily.

Good luck,
Barry

ShawnL · 2025-10-16T15:22:59-0700

I have a '72 Catalina 22. I can just fit a 100W Renology solar panel in the space between the forward hatch and the 2 forward shrouds. It sits there between the 3 at somewhat of an angle and seems to work fine. I started with a small panel on one of the seats in the cockpit. Switched to a 50W on the pop-top and then the 100 out front. Honestly, it fits perfect there and I don't have to move it when we sail. It's probably shaded while we're sailing, but I don't care -- I just don't have to deal with it while it's up forward.

The jib is nowhere near it, and I can easily (ish) avoid stepping on it when going forward. I did install a electrical connector on the cabin top to make the wiring easier, but beyond that, it was a simple thing. It just sits there wedged in between the shrouds and the hatch combing,

Help putting in a simple solar setup for my C-22

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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