In modern age do people use their big 40+ gallon water tank up front or do they go to bottled water, tank seems health risk AND BOTTLED WATER HAS GOTTEN CHEAP AND COMMON unlike the 1980s? Removing front h26 tank would free up room. - D
In modern age do people use their big water tank or go to bottled water, tank seems health risk? Removing front h26 tank would free up room. - D
- Thread starter Davenport
- Start date
Tank to rinse and wash dishes/counter. Bottled to drink however, bottled water has its issues too.
If your question is specific to the h26, then I can't help.
However I have 4 tanks on my h40.5 - 40, 20, 20, & 30 gallons. We have a reasonably decent water supply at our marina, but I also fill the tanks through a charcoal filter. We use the water for everything- showers, drinking, coffee, cooking, etc. If we get some water on our travels that is not to our liking, then we use bottles for drinking and coffee. We have never gotten water that is too nasty for showers.
I do bleach the tanks and water lines each year in the spring.
I have to ask- if you remove your 40 gallon tank, what are you going to do with the space? And do you need water for showers?
I don't think we would do well if all we had was (40) 20-ounce bottles of water. I could work for a day-sailer, though...
However I have 4 tanks on my h40.5 - 40, 20, 20, & 30 gallons. We have a reasonably decent water supply at our marina, but I also fill the tanks through a charcoal filter. We use the water for everything- showers, drinking, coffee, cooking, etc. If we get some water on our travels that is not to our liking, then we use bottles for drinking and coffee. We have never gotten water that is too nasty for showers.
I do bleach the tanks and water lines each year in the spring.
I have to ask- if you remove your 40 gallon tank, what are you going to do with the space? And do you need water for showers?
I don't think we would do well if all we had was (40) 20-ounce bottles of water. I could work for a day-sailer, though...
We use bottles, or more often gallon jugs that we refill from marina water taps, for drinking. We find that’s easy enough to manage and doesn’t add a need for extra filtration or special care for our tanks. We use the water in the boat tanks for handwashing, showering, and dish washing. I would not want to be without the convenience of the large tanks for those reasons.
Thanks. I am probably a coward, but the idea of drinking or even showering in 40 gallon tank water thats been sitting for months in my h26 front tank scares me. At the very least its a small health risk so hard to not wince at using.
Instead we use 1 gallon plastic jugs from the grocery for drinking and yes showering on the dock with holes poked in the cap and a rope net to hold it up on the dock pole, though we do fill them up from hose for hand washing. The big tank and all the lines seem impossible to sanitize as well as a newish clear transparent plastic jug from the grocery. The front storage area would be good to free up, to store some of the cushions and life preservers and etc and some laundry bags of clothes.
I wonder if big water tanks ARE being reduced in new designs, now bottled water is at every store.
Instead we use 1 gallon plastic jugs from the grocery for drinking and yes showering on the dock with holes poked in the cap and a rope net to hold it up on the dock pole, though we do fill them up from hose for hand washing. The big tank and all the lines seem impossible to sanitize as well as a newish clear transparent plastic jug from the grocery. The front storage area would be good to free up, to store some of the cushions and life preservers and etc and some laundry bags of clothes.
I wonder if big water tanks ARE being reduced in new designs, now bottled water is at every store.
if it takes that long to cycle through 40 gal, I would be too. Plus, why carry around 300 + pounds of weight in the bow you don’t need?
I filter the water going into my tank and filter it again before use. Clean the tank every year. I am more confident and prefer the taste of my tank water over any tap water.
I probably wouldn't be too keen on drinking water "that's been sitting for months" either. As long as you're happy with your water-jug setup, I'd say go ahead and take it out. Your boat, your choice after all. That said, when the water in my has been sitting too long, it's not too much trouble to drain it out and replace with fresh (filtered) water. This question would be well-suited to the Marine Plumbing and Sanitation sub-forum where @Peggie Hall HeadMistress might give you a pep-talk and assure you that as long as it's properly maintained, water tanks can be quite safe. She has a process for cleaning tanks and water lines that would probably serve you well if for nothing else than showering or washing your hands.
I followed the Practical Sailor article on producing clean water. I installed a Pentek CBC-10 carbon-block cartridge filter inline with my galley faucet.
www.practical-sailor.com
Tap Water thats Better than Bottled - Practical Sailor
Universal filters provide the most practical solution for final onboard water filtration. Pentek CBC-5 is recommended for most U.S. sailors.
www.practical-sailor.com
The last few years I've been using the Pentek Floplus-10. It's the same 0.5 micron performance, but less pressure loss.I followed the Practical Sailor article on producing clean water. I installed a Pentek CBC-10 carbon-block cartridge filter inline with my galley faucet.
Tap Water thats Better than Bottled - Practical Sailor
Universal filters provide the most practical solution for final onboard water filtration. Pentek CBC-5 is recommended for most U.S. sailors.
View attachment 232561
I do Peggy’s commissioning steps at the start of each season. We have two tanks, one about 35 gallons and one about 60. We use the 35 routinely and turn it over every couple weeks. It’s never smelly or in any way concerning. I should add that we also use it for tooth brushing. When we go on a trip will fill the 60 gallon tank also and work through that the same way.
I haven’t seen any trend toward typical production boats significantly cutting back their tankage. Some models have less water, maybe only a single tank instead of two, but I think most people want the option of a real hot shower and typical running water for washing. If your jug setup makes you happy go for it, but I would keep the tank stored someplace so it could be reinstalled when you want to sell the boat.
I haven’t seen any trend toward typical production boats significantly cutting back their tankage. Some models have less water, maybe only a single tank instead of two, but I think most people want the option of a real hot shower and typical running water for washing. If your jug setup makes you happy go for it, but I would keep the tank stored someplace so it could be reinstalled when you want to sell the boat.
Spring Recommisioning—The Fresh Water System
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.
Before beginning, turn off water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first or second bucketful afterward--should be discarded…bleach does absolutely nothing to improve the flavor of good Scotch!
1. In a bucket, prepare a solution using 1 quart/liter of household bleach (5-7% sodium hypochlorite) /50 gallons of water tank capacity. Add to tank. If your water tank is smaller than 50 gallons, use a little math to arrive at the amount of bleach needed (a quart is 32 ounces).
2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled ..You'll know when the water coming out of any faucet smells strongly of bleach. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines.
3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.
4. Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart/liter distilled white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vessel motion.
6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by filing the tank 1/4-1/2 full and flushing again with potable water.
People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, its effects are cumulative...it's not in the system long enough to do any damage, making the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years. And it’s that cumulative effect that makes it a VERY bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell like a laundry, it’s not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any “purifying” properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving behind only the corrosive properties. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach needed for recommissioning in a few gallons of water before putting it into an empty stainless or aluminum tank.
An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter...can even be just a faucet filter on the galley sink Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.
To keep the water system cleaner longer, USE your fresh water...keep water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let the dock water run for at least 5 minutes first...the same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line and your own hose to your boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main, which will be much cooler than the water that's been sitting in the summer heat.
--Peggie
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.
Before beginning, turn off water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first or second bucketful afterward--should be discarded…bleach does absolutely nothing to improve the flavor of good Scotch!
1. In a bucket, prepare a solution using 1 quart/liter of household bleach (5-7% sodium hypochlorite) /50 gallons of water tank capacity. Add to tank. If your water tank is smaller than 50 gallons, use a little math to arrive at the amount of bleach needed (a quart is 32 ounces).
2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled ..You'll know when the water coming out of any faucet smells strongly of bleach. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines.
3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.
4. Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart/liter distilled white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vessel motion.
6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by filing the tank 1/4-1/2 full and flushing again with potable water.
People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, its effects are cumulative...it's not in the system long enough to do any damage, making the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years. And it’s that cumulative effect that makes it a VERY bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell like a laundry, it’s not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any “purifying” properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving behind only the corrosive properties. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach needed for recommissioning in a few gallons of water before putting it into an empty stainless or aluminum tank.
An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter...can even be just a faucet filter on the galley sink Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.
To keep the water system cleaner longer, USE your fresh water...keep water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let the dock water run for at least 5 minutes first...the same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line and your own hose to your boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main, which will be much cooler than the water that's been sitting in the summer heat.
--Peggie
Pressure has never been a problem, but the Floplus-10 is the better of the two because it has an NSF-53 rating.
My O’Day 322 has 2 30-gallon water tanks…too much for me to use in a reasonable amount of time. And the tank not getting used would get skanky after a while in the summer heat. Do I pulled one of the 2 tanks and only use one. I could have left the extra tank in place, but I wanted the storage space. I don’t drink the water, but I use it for washing dishes, cleaning, etc.
With a single 40-gallon tank, your options are limited to reduce the size. Ypu could remove the tank and put a smaller tank or a bladder in there.
Like Rich, I would not want NO water tank…
Greg
With a single 40-gallon tank, your options are limited to reduce the size. Ypu could remove the tank and put a smaller tank or a bladder in there.
Like Rich, I would not want NO water tank…
Greg
Larger boat designs are reducing the water tankage compared to past designs, but for reason of watermakers, not bottled water.
Smaller boat designs never much had enough tankage to have a reduction matter in a practical sense.
Mark
Originally the boat came with a 20 gallon water tank with two lines running to the head and galley sinks via hand pumps. I had customs remove the tank but would require removing the rear wall tucked into a recessed groove with four wood screws at the bottom.
PULL FROM OCEAN/LAKE. . . . It probably is not wise, but do people ever have hose in Texas or Florida ocean, or a lake, and pump that up for handwashing and dishwashing?? I would guess that is NOT hygienic but I wanted to ask. D
I wouldnt want to drink water thats been in a tank for weeks. We live on board and go through 80 gallons in 4-5 days in a marina. I dont worry about that. But if we leave the boat for any period of time, I use up the tanks to empty, and when I return I will fill and then run the first few gallons through the sink plumbing to rinse it out. Hasnt been a problem.
I would not remove all of the water tankage. You may want to sell the boat one day, and not having any water tank wont help. If you are only doing day sailing, just dont fill it up. You probably only need a few gallons. Then drain it out before you leave. A charcoal filter of some sort will make a noticable difference.
I would not remove all of the water tankage. You may want to sell the boat one day, and not having any water tank wont help. If you are only doing day sailing, just dont fill it up. You probably only need a few gallons. Then drain it out before you leave. A charcoal filter of some sort will make a noticable difference.
Another thing I did/do besides my onboard filter system; I filter the dock supply with another filter before it gets into the tank. I installed a cleanable screen on the vent side to keep bugs out. I also added an inspection cover to the tank so I can scrub it out and keep it bone dry in the off season.