Outhaul modifications

[jssailem]

Fred. You need to turn off “live” pictures.
Go to Camera in your settings and choose the option that gives you jpeg format.

 

[shemandr]

Fred. You need to turn off “live” pictures.
Go to Camera in your settings and choose the option that gives you jpeg format.

I've learned something already today!

 

[fred1diver]

It worked thank you everyone
So here are pics of my boom
Good thing, the end caps are screwed, so it should be easy to remove unless they are seized in place.
The crank is held in place by 2 screws, I cannot see a sheave where the wire goes in, will take it apart and see what I have to work with

 

[shemandr]

There's got to be a better way. I would be inclined to design a new system on paper maybe even make a mockup to get measurements. And then take all the hardware off and re-do it according to that design. I don't think you need as much purchase as mentioned. I think 3:1 ought to do it. After a point the extra turns become more friction than help.
I think your boom may have once been a roller as some boats of that vintage were. My Ranger 29 was. The boom would turn a little which I never cured.

 

[fred1diver]

Yes it was a roller boom, I still have the hand crank for it, I use it to aligne the boom early spring
Y ou are correct that I don’t need too much purchase and yes extra blocks will add friction.
I just want the rigging to be functional and easy to use for my wife and I

 

[Ward H]

I went with external outhaul using a double and a triple block between the boom end and clew cringle. I used the original outhaul sheave mounted in the end of the boom to run the line forward to the exit sheave. Then I ran it down to another set of double and triple blocks, then back to the cockpit via a mast base mounted turning block.
I think that ended something like a 10-1 or 12-1 advantage. I try to find some photos.

 

[fred1diver]

Hello everybody
Doing some work on the outhaul this morning
Here is the mock up, will replace the exit line to something else as dyneema doesn’t work in the clam cleat

 

[fred1diver]

I also took the afternoon end of the boom off and unscrewed the original internal winch, ow more headaches.
The boom end does have a sheave inside it, which is perfect, I am trying to figure if I need to reinstall this part, it’s a slider that goes in the boom track, there is a hole in it so the line goes through, but I cannot figure out the why of it’s existence
Now trying to remove the winch is proving to be more complicated than expected, I took some pics of the inside of the boom where the winch was and not sure what to do next

 

[fred1diver]

Ok, by the aft end didn’t work, so I removed the fore end cap, tried to remove the whole sled assembly, did not want to move, removed all the fasteners and with a little persuasion it finally came out
So by removing the sled assembly, was not sure how this was setup, so it is a sled that is moved by the crank, now having seen what was there, I can fully understand why the outhaul was not pulling the main tight, very little travel.

next steps will be installing the new outhaul, will try and get all the crap out from inside the boom first

 

[shemandr]

Looks like you are on the right track. Disassembly can be scary but once accomplished leaves a clear path to a solution.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Actually, that looks like it would be plenty of purchase with the line from your worm gear to the turning block and then to the clew. It should also have a lot of purchase. The downside is that it would be slow to adjust. One your mockup, it all looks fine except for the part that you need to lead out of the boom needs to be Dacron because Dyneema is much too slippery to hold in any cleat.

 

[fred1diver]

Yes I already purchased some 1/4” rope for the exit of the boom, I also have an exit block

 

[Ward H]

The boom end does have a sheave inside it, which is perfect, I am trying to figure if I need to reinstall this part, it’s a slider that goes in the boom track, there is a hole in it so the line goes through, but I cannot figure out the why of it’s existence

A lot of loose foot main sails use a clew strap to hold the clew near the boom while allowing the clew to move fore or aft as needed. It's basically a strap with D rings on the ends. It has less friction than a solid car.

 

[fred1diver]

Ok, so maybe if I install that car back and use the slit for a strap to hold it near the boom

 

[fred1diver]

Ok, so trying to figure this out at the moment
I know how to splice dyneema, I just haven”t done it in a while.
so I need to splice it to one block and the other end will have a loop to fasten to the inside of the mast.
second one will be to the other internal block and will be for the line that goes to the clew, also needs a loop at the other end for attaching the clew, now, should I just make a loop or make a soft shackle at the end?
or a loop and add a soft shackle or a normal shackle?

now, I have spliced lines before, but I need to have a loop that ties to a bracket on my internal shackle, do I splice it directly? If so never done that before, so how ? Or simply make a loop, secure it with a shackle, or simply tie it to the becket and sew the end of the line to the line?

For attaching the loop inside the boom, I was thinking using rivets to an inside loop, what do you think?
I will have to cut for the exit block, side or bottom?

so many questions…

 

[dLj]

Ok, so trying to figure this out at the moment
I know how to splice dyneema, I just haven”t done it in a while.
so I need to splice it to one block and the other end will have a loop to fasten to the inside of the mast.
second one will be to the other internal block and will be for the line that goes to the clew, also needs a loop at the other end for attaching the clew, now, should I just make a loop or make a soft shackle at the end?
or a loop and add a soft shackle or a normal shackle?

now, I have spliced lines before, but I need to have a loop that ties to a bracket on my internal shackle, do I splice it directly? If so never done that before, so how ? Or simply make a loop, secure it with a shackle, or simply tie it to the becket and sew the end of the line to the line?

For attaching the loop inside the boom, I was thinking using rivets to an inside loop, what do you think?
I will have to cut for the exit block, side or bottom?

so many questions…

I would suggest that you think of how to take it apart in the future as you make these decisions. Where would you disconnect if you want to service, change things, all that sort of long term maintenance.

dj

 

[fred1diver]

Having looked at my internal blocks again I saw that the bail can be removed, so for the dyneema I just need to make loops, easy to use for maintenance
For the 1/4 inch control line I am leaning for a shackle after looking at everything
Any more input is greatly appreciated

 

[fred1diver]

Quick update
The dyneema loops to the blocks are done as well as the loop to secure the line.
Just need to
Splice the 1/4 inch line, I already added a shackle to the becket on the block.
Now getting ready to go to work

 

[fred1diver]

I am confirming very loudly that I hate splicing ¼ inch double braid

I have the Samson rope splicing manual, talk about badly written instructions, also have their fid set, did they have to make the ¼ inch needle the same size as the rope? No room to get it in where the core and cover are both present

this splice is the last thing I need to do before assembling everything inside the boom

any other ideas on what I could do???
I have spliced ½ inch and bigger with the same instructions and I was able to do it, but on ¼ inch…. Different story

Ok, after a few minutes to calm myself and do a bit of research. Apparently if you soak the rope in water it helps lubricate it, I am soaking the rope now, I will try again in a little while, if it doesn’t work, I will try the same tools I use for amsteel (dyneema) but that will only be tomorrow for those tools, wish me luck, I am going to need it

 

[dLj]

I actually made my own fid for 1/4" dynema. I used a spool of wire I carry and bent it into a long U. It was quite skinny when done and would easily go down the center. I'd send a pic but it's in my boat - not close enough to take a quick pic...

dj