Random Yanmar instrument warning light and buzzer

Jun 8, 2004
1,027
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
All those early Cherubini Hunters had QM series Yanmars (with the exception of some of the larger boats that had the 4JH series in the 80s). The QM series diesels had heavier, beefier castings, weighed more than the later GM series, and were designed to be raw water cooled. Though there was a fresh water cooling option available from Yanmar, Hunter generally installed the raw water version and converted it with a heat exchanger from Sendure, a manufacturer in Florida. If your boat has either an L-shaped thing or two double stacked cylinders with hoses and has a rad cap, your diesel isn't raw water cooled. The QM also doesn't have a 'dipstick' under the oil filler cap - it should be low on the starboard side of the engine block, under the exhaust manifold. If you go to the "Downloads" section here on SBO, you will find both operator's and service manuals for your engine. And, yes, that warning light and buzzer going off with the engine running usually means there's a problem with the cooling system; ignore it at your peril!
 
Oct 8, 2023
22
Hunter 30 Lake Travis, Austin Texas
@Moondawg , how are you doing with that overheating problem ? This is an interesting one.
I'm going out tomorrow to replace the oil and oil filter, replace the impeller, and pull the thermostat to get the correct replacement info. I also need to check out the heat exchanger. I'll report the results asap.
 
Oct 8, 2023
22
Hunter 30 Lake Travis, Austin Texas
I replaced the oil and filter and replaced the impeller, which was definitely worn with at least one broken spine. Unfortunately, one of the M6 bolts broke off when I removed the thermostat, so now I have that to deal with before I can put a new thermostat in. Tried everything, nogo. I'll try to drill and tap, but I may need to find a used heat exchanger housing.
 
Oct 8, 2023
22
Hunter 30 Lake Travis, Austin Texas
I replaced the oil and filter and replaced the impeller, which was definitely worn with at least one broken spine. Unfortunately, one of the M6 bolts broke off when I removed the thermostat, so now I have that to deal with before I can put a new thermostat in. Tried everything, nogo. I'll try to drill and tap, but I may need to find a used heat exchanger housing.
20240922_165415.jpg
20240921_104512.jpg
 
May 17, 2004
5,356
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
That’s a sad looking impeller. I wonder where the broken vane ended up. In fresh water cooled engines they often get stuck in the heat tubes of the heat exchanger. I don’t know if there’s a typical blocking point for them on raw water engines.
 
Oct 8, 2023
22
Hunter 30 Lake Travis, Austin Texas
That’s a sad looking impeller. I wonder where the broken vane ended up. In fresh water cooled engines they often get stuck in the heat tubes of the heat exchanger. I don’t know if there’s a typical blocking point for them on raw water engines.
I'll be taking the heat exchanger apart to inspect/clean after I get the broken bolt drilled and tapped
 
May 17, 2004
5,356
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
I'll be taking the heat exchanger apart to inspect/clean after I get the broken bolt drilled and tapped
As a raw water cooled 2QM15 you don’t have a heat exchanger, at least assuming it wasn’t modified for fresh water cooling. The manual (page 7-1 at https://j30.us/files/2qm15_servicemanual.pdf ) shows the thermostat screwing into the exhaust manifold. I can’t really tell from your picture but I presume that’s where you have the broken bolt.
 
Oct 8, 2023
22
Hunter 30 Lake Travis, Austin Texas
Thank you for the info, Davidsailor26! That is correct. I thought it was a tad short for a heat exchanger. I need to take exhaust manifold off and drill and tap both holes to a larger diameter bolt.
 
Oct 8, 2023
22
Hunter 30 Lake Travis, Austin Texas
Got the exhaust manifold off. Now I need to drill and tap it. Should have the new thermostat in a couple of days.
20240925_162324.jpg
20240925_162223.jpg
 
Oct 26, 2010
1,990
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
In looking at the picture of the broken bolt/damage, it appears like you have attempted to drill it out and the hole is now offset from the original hole. Is that correct? If that is the case, drilling and tapping an oversized hole my not be a solution. You may need to do some sort of repair to the base metal of the manifold that looks like a cast alloy steel. It is sometimes difficult to get a good weld on cast metal so make sure you have an experienced welder who knows what it takes to weld to cast alloy steel.
 
Last edited:
Jan 4, 2006
6,854
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
In looking at the picture of the broken bolt/damage, it appears like you have attempted to drill it out and the hole is now offset from the original hole.
My thoughts exactly.

Can you take a picture of the flange on edge and lets' see if there is any room to use a nut and washer directly under the original hole in the flange ? Drill out the original hole with an oversized hole so that it exactly matches the other flange.

I don't think I need to mention "not too big a hole" or it will weaken the flange. Maybe use the thermostat or the mating flange as a drill guide when clamped (bolted) in place with the good holes, if possible ?
 
Oct 8, 2023
22
Hunter 30 Lake Travis, Austin Texas
In looking at the picture of the broken bolt/damage, it appears like you have attempted to drill it out and the hole is now offset from the original hole. Is that correct? If that is the case, drilling and tapping an oversized hole my not be a solution. You may need to do some sort of repair to the base metal of the manifold that looks like a cast alloy steel. It is sometimes difficult to get a good weld on cast metal so make sure you have an experienced welder who knows what it takes to weld to cast alloy steel.
Thanks Smokey73, I'm definitely getting an expert opinion from a very experienced machinist.
 
Oct 8, 2023
22
Hunter 30 Lake Travis, Austin Texas
My thoughts exactly.

Can you take a picture of the flange on edge and lets' see if there is any room to use a nut and washer directly under the original hole in the flange ? Drill out the original hole with an oversized hole so that it exactly matches the other flange.

I don't think I need to mention "not too big a hole" or it will weaken the flange. Maybe use the thermostat or the mating flange as a drill guide when clamped (bolted) in place with the good holes, if possible ?
Not sure I understand your suggestion. I think the best solution is to have a professional drill and tap using the thermostat flange as a guide.
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,854
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
1727372258841.png


The above two flanges are held together by nuts and bolts.

Your flanges were held together with one of the flanges having two threaded holes.

Convert the buggered up hole in the flange to be held together with a nut and bolt.