New owner Hunter 240 WB

[SteveHughessails]

Hi all
My girlfriend says I’m nuts, it’s true. Last year we bought a MacGregor 25 and we are teaching ourselves to sail. We’re having an amazing time. A 1999 Hunter 240 water ballast with good sails and a spinnaker, 8hp 4 stroke Honda OB, trailer + extras was offered to us for an extremely good price, we bought it.

There is some damage. It came free from a buoy and hit the neighbours dock. There is a bump and slice about 12-14 inches long on the front left side. It’s just above the water line. We were able to motor her home on a rough ish lake, it took about 1.5 hours with no issues to get her to the nearest boat launch. We were like kids playing on it for the journey lol. Once I got her on the trailer we could see another spot on the bottom of the hull.

My plan was to fix the glass from the inside with a few layers of 6 oz cloth and polyester resin. Then I was going to clean up the outside with lighter glass and filler and spray gelcoat and place a decal on it. After poking around the damage, I’m not sure if my approach is the right one. The bottom of the hull, can’t get to it from the inside.

Can anyone offer up some assistance for us? How should I tackle this one
Thanks

Quite the boat we have now. So much more going on compared to the Mac25. We can reef our main now and we have so much more room.

 

[rgranger]

There is a lot of experience here but we would need good pics to really help. @Crazy Dave Condon will probably pipe in. He helped design this boat so listen to his advice….
And FYI, there is a reason he is called “crazy”

 

[SteveHughessails]

I’ve seen his name with all the reading I’ve done multiple times. I’m hoping I’ll be fortunate and catch/keep his attention, thanks

 

[caverun]

Welcome, great boat and sounds like a great deal. I had the 240 before moving up to a 260. There is also a Facebook group for the Hunter 26/260/270 boats, which are very similar to the H240. Several owners there have been dealing with hull damage and repair. You might need to join the group to view these links but could be helpful in your situation.

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[SteveHughessails]

Thank you so much for that. I will check it out.

 

[SteveHughessails]

I took a picture of the damage. We just rented a Buoy until the end of September. I sure hope our Mac25 doesn't come off of it lol. The other bump is quite small further under on the other side. Looks like I'll be sanding and bottom paint too.

 

[rgranger]

You will need to get a backing plate in there. I've done this sort of thing once before and I have attached some pics.

1. First you will need to very carefully cut out the damaged fiberglass. I would use a dremel so you don't punch too deep into the boat.
2. Then tape a piece of clear plastic over the hole and trace out the cut with a sharpie.
3. Take that plastic sheet to the shed and cut out 3 or 4 pieces of fiberglass cloth that overlaps the sharpie marks by about an inch.
4. Wet out the fiberglass pieces with epoxy resin and lay them on the plastic and squeege out the excess resin and let that set.
5. Back to the boat... take a grinder and very carefully feather out the opening so the edges of the hole have a slant away from the hole.
6. Go back to step 4. If the resin has kicked , remove your backing plate, clean up the edges with the dremel and then drill two very small holes in the plate and thread the holes with dental floss (the cheap stuff is made of dacron)
7. Wet the edges of the backing plate with epoxy (I am a big fan of JB weld here), insert it in the hole and then pull it into place with the floss... tie the floss to something to hold it in place while the JB weld sets up (see pics)

Feathered Hole

Backing Plate

Backing Plate + JB Weld + Dental Floss to hold in place
​

7. Once the JB weld has set, you then need to fill the hole. Start with another piece of clear plastic and this time trace out the edges of the faired region around the hole.

8. Take the plastic to the shed and then cut out a piece of cloth that exactly matches the trace... then cut out 5 more with the same shape but each one slightly smaller. The last piece should match the shape of the hole (against the backing plate).

9. While the pieces of fiberglass cloth is still dry, dry-fit them in the hole and make sure the pieces fit well and the last piece (outer) is fair with the hull. You may need to add or subtract pieces of cloth to get the depth just right.

10. Wet all pieces of cloth at the same time and stack them on the clear plastic sheet. Squeegee out the excess resin and then...

11. Take the entire plastic sheet of wetted fiberglass to the boat and press the stack into the hole... and tape the plastic over the area and let it all set up. (here are more pics)

12. Remove the plastic sheet and clean it up...

 

[SteveHughessails]

Wows, thanks so much for all of this. You are referring to epoxy, I actually have some west system epoxy. I figured polyester resin would be used, good to know. Making the patch for the inside, understood. Gluing patch in, pressure with pulling floss, got it. Stacking and placing filler in wet, love it. Question: last piece fair with hull. Depending how well I'm able to grind, I would want to extend that last piece well out over the hull. would that just cause more work or would it add strength? Also, what do you recommend for cloth weight, likely multiple layers of 6oz or 2oz?

Thanks again
I just finished reading a similar repair on the face book link. Super timing

 

[caverun]

Thank you so much for that. I will check it out.

And a later thread with more details on the repair, similar to rgranger's technique above.

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[rgranger]

. Question: last piece fair with hull. Depending how well I'm able to grind, I would want to extend that last piece well out over the hull.

That is what feathering of the hole does.

epoxy resin is better/superior for repairs because it has stronger adhesive properties than does polyester resin. Since you are “gluing“ to cured fiberglass you have to depend only on adhesive strength, there is no mechanical bonding here. With a backing plate of several layers and then 6+ layers into a feather holeYou will have a repair that is stronger than the original hull was. You won’t need to worry about extending the fiberglass on the face of the hull but if you really want to do something like that just increase the size of your backing plate.

That way it will remain hidden and your repair will look good from the outside.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

What @rgranger is describing is putting a backing plate in the backside from the outside. Next add several layers of glass. In a vertical surface no more than two layers as a third will sag. Make sure you have a resin roller dipped in aceton to spread the fiberglass out smoothly plus getting air bubbles out.

Once the fiberglass has dried you can spray either black or gray paint onto the fiberglass only. Sand down the high area to smooth. Any. Valleys need to be added with fiberglass and sands to smooth surface. Then fill in the small holes with Loc Tite two part epoxy as it is one of the hardest epoxy’s designed for use in water.

The next is adding either gel coat or a white plastic paint by Krylon. When you get to that step, advise me and I will chirp in.
@SteveHughessails. Please advise any damage from inside and a closer picture from the outside

Dave

 

[isaksp00]

I don't have that boat, but I've seen info on how the water ballasted boats were built. Wondering if the top surface of the ballast tank is near that gash and if it might affect the technique. I guess if the hole is totally below the top lid that would be a benefit as leaking from a (admittedly unlikely) defect in the patch wouldn't be a risk to sinking.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@isaksp00

That is one reason why I asked for inside pictures

 

[SteveHughessails]

Wows thanks everyone. I will get into the inside over the weekend. I’ll also start cutting and feathering the hull damage and take more pics.
Question: it is definitely a vertical repair. Ok, 2 layers of glass at a time. Do I then let it dry, rough it up and then add another 2 layers etc. ?

 

[SteveHughessails]

I think I have good news; I opened up the sealed forward hatch. The impact was right underneath the floor. I tried to get some good pictures.

 

[SteveHughessails]

I was able to cut all of the soft damage out and I started feathering the outside.

 

[rgranger]

That looks good!

And getting a backing plate in there will be much easier.

 

[isaksp00]

Search for some good internet info on laying up glass. If I recall it is recommended to add the layers while the previous one is still a little tacky, for best adhesion.

 

[SteveHughessails]

Thanks for the replies. I really like the tutorial above. Having the plastic sheet taped on to hold the plug in should prevent it from sliding. Then only 2 layers at a time was introduced
Raining here today!

 

[rgranger]

Thanks for the replies. I really like the tutorial above. Having the plastic sheet taped on to hold the plug in should prevent it from sliding. Then only 2 layers at a time was introduced
Raining here today!

Actually I always do 6 layers at a time. An additional benefit of the plastic sheeting is it leave the surface nice and smooth ... so less fairing work after....

If you decide to do two layers at a time @isaksp00 is correct in thinking you don't want it to fully cure before you add the next layer. If fully cured, you only get adhesive bonding... if allowed to "stick" while still a little "wet" then you also get chemical bonding.