Changing FRESH water pump on VP MD22L

[Rich Stidger]

UPDATE:
Yesterday i started to disassemble the Volvo MD22L-B to remove the coolant pump. I have a new pump on order from the UK that is supposed to be here in a couple more days.
In order to get to the coolant pump, the timing belt must be removed and the pulleys on the crank, cam, and injection pump need to come off. Then the back half of the timing belt housing is removed to expose the pump.
Many thanks to @jviss for coming over to help and lend moral support as well. And for making run to Harbor Freight to buy tools I missed bringing from home.
The timing belt removal was easy since I have done that job twice previously. Getting the pulleys off was also easy with the help of a big DeWalt electric impact wrench to loosen the bolts and nuts and a flat plate puller from Harbor Freight.
I've drained the antifreeze and I'm at the point of removing the coolant pump today. I'll clean up everything in preparation for re-assembly.
Here are a few pictures of the progress-

 

[JamesG161]

Even though a PITA, you have a chance to clean that tiny bit of corrosion.

Your engine is immaculate normally.

Jim...

 

[Rich Stidger]

@JamesG161 - That bit of corrosion you point out was behind the back cover of the timing belt. Un-observable and impossible to access until now. It will be cleaned of course. I wish I had my POR-15 and engine paint to do a proper clean-up job. The other item you question is a black rubber cap on a tube that goes to the bottom of the oil sump for sucking out engine oil. Some of the green paint has chipped off the rubber cap.

 

[JamesG161]

That Water pump looks to be complex design for a centrifugal type pump.

Please post pictures of the new one and the End view of the Input and Exit pipes.

The Internal design will be very interesting.
I will take a stab at the flow in the next post by me.

Jim...

PS: We traced down why my MD22L would not be turned over. It was the ignition key.
PSS: Ebay had new one for $310

 

[Rich Stidger]

@JamesG161 - If you haven't already ordered the switch on eBay, why don't you send an email to Parts4 Engines and ask if they can supply one? It is not in their list of parts, but you never know. They do have many other ignition switches for the Volvo MD engines, and they are all about $16. Send to advice@parts4engines.com

 

[JamesG161]

They do have many other ignition switches for the Volvo MD engines

Good idea!
Also I was going to order this display for engine hours too.


Jim...

PS: Other VP stores list the ignition keys = $490

 

[JamesG161]

Guessing now about the Water pump flow.



also my MD22L-B does not have that oiler. Whew.

Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

I went to P4E site and got this view of the Wild Azz impeller.

Not a gear pump but centrifugal type

They mention the Gasket for engine mount. Hopefully your new pump has the gasket.

Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

why don't you send an email to Parts4 Engines

Done.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Guessing now about the Water pump flow.

View attachment 216957

also my MD22L-B does not have that oiler. Whew.

Jim...

First, I don't understand your "oiler" comment. Please explain.
The pump is just a centrifugal pump. Not a gear pump.
The engine rotates CW from the front and the water pump also rotates CW. I believe that the pump pushes coolant into the engine block and pulls it from the input hoses on the left side of the pump. The large hose pulls coolant from the exhaust manifold/HX and the smaller vertical hose pulls coolant down through the thermostat and into the heat ex-changer. The small angled tube is not used and is plugged. I suspect it is used on a different engine. I put a screwdriver into that tube to show that it is plugged.
Check the flow diagram on page 20A.02 in the workshop manual.

 

[JamesG161]

First, I don't understand your "oiler" comment. Please explain.

In my first annotated picture, I asked

"What does thing do?"

is a black rubber cap on a tube that goes to the bottom of the oil sump for sucking out engine oil

It looked like it was welded to the water pump.

I thought it was oil lubricating the Water pump bearing.
That is not a part of my Model B engine.
_______

Not a gear pump but centrifugal type

Yep, from the P4E picture I saw that. [my post#28]

So your failure must be the Water pump Bearings
Jim...

PS: Thank you very much! for the Pictures.

 

[JamesG161]

The small angled tube is not used and is plugged.

That was from the earlier model that had an oil cooler on it.

Jim...

 

[Rich Stidger]

So your failure must be the Water pump Bearings

Actually, that is what I expected. However the bearings have no slop whatsoever in them and they turn smooth with no rough spots or friction. I agree that the usual failure mode is the bearings and then with the resulting slop it takes out the seal. In this case it looks like the seal just failed.
Upon removing the pump, I found some rust/corrosion directly under the pump shaft, and a dark trail from the pump weep hole and headed down. See pix below-

When I discovered the antifreeze in the sump under the engine, AF was still dripping at a good rate from directly under the pump shaft. There was no wetness from AF anywhere else. And after removing the rear timing belt housing, there was no evidence of leaking at the cylinder to head joint. So after I put this back together with the new pump, if it still leaks then I have a real mystery and problem.

 

[Rich Stidger]

That was from the earlier model that had an oil cooler on it.

Jim...

Ah Ha!

 

[JamesG161]

I thought it was oil lubricating the Water pump bearing.
That is not a part of my Model B engine

This was the Broker picture before I bought my boat.

But shows how easy I remove the oil from the sump. The tube is hung and then rotates toward you.
Plus that tube extends down to lowest spot on the sump.
98% old oil removed

Jim...

 

[Rich Stidger]

But shows how easy I remove the oil from the sump. The tube is hung and then rotates toward you.
Plus that tube extends down to lowest spot on the sump.
98% old oil removed

Jim...

My tube connects the same way to the oil pan, except that the end of the tube is at the front of the engine.

 

[JamesG161]

MD22A, the first model, oil cooler.



Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

a dark trail from the pump weep hole and headed down

Look at the P4E Picture on my post #28, you found your problem.

It was that Seal.

Classic problem.

It appears to be a Lip Seal. that is fixed and eventually fails.

Jim...

 

[Rich Stidger]

Look at the P4E Picture on my post #28, you found your problem.

It was that Seal.

Classic problem.

It appears to be a Lip Seal. that is fixed and eventually fails.

Jim...

Thanks for the link on Lip Seals. I learned a little bit today.

 

[Rich Stidger]

UPDATE:
My new pump arrived today, one day early, from the UK. As expected it was a dead ringer for my original pump. I had everything cleaned and prepped for re-assembly, so at 2pm I started.
5 hours later the pump was in, all the pulleys back in place, and the timing belt re-installed and tensioned. I pulled all the timing pins and turned the crank over two revolutions to check for binding. All good.
So I hit the starter and the engine fired right up. I ran it for maybe 10 seconds and shut it down.
Then it was time to put the outer timing belt cover on and install the water pump pulley. I still have to tighten the alternator and water pump belt and add antifreeze to the engine. That will be tomorrow.
I'm done for today. Time for dinner and an adult beverage.