My New Boat - A Tartan 3800

Sean K · May 9, 2023

I’d be glad to do so as I hope to sail tomorrow, Wednesday. Please be more specific on which measurement you’d like. I assume it’s the top of the deck. Is it forward of the mast or behind and what type of boom vang do you have - will there be clearance? Maybe approximate the canister size so I can see where it may fit best. Just let me know, and I can figure out how to add a picture to this I’ll do that too.

Sean K · May 9, 2023

Or, are you talking about the hard fixed area above the sliding top down to the cabin, on a second read of your post I’m thinking that’s it.

Sean K · May 9, 2023

Got it, I’ll have the dimensions for you by tomorrow.

Sean K · May 9, 2023

Why two winches on the port side of the hatchway, in line with each other. I assume you also have one on the starboard side, or are there two there also? Do you use them ILO clutches?

smokey73 · May 9, 2023

Sean K said:
I did have one very odd event last year.... The best I can figure out was I left both the head Mascerator thru-hull and direct discharge hose thru-hull open (Y valve to holding tank) and surmised that the anti-siphon loops may have been below the water level and water came in that way. After contacting

Just so you know: If you are in a no-discharge zone (which is just about everywhere I sail and probably most bays, sounds and rivers on the East Coast, you are required by regulation to have the discharge valve from any overboard waste tank (except "treated discharges") closed and locked. I am told that they will accept a "zip tie" that has to be cut to open the valve as "locked." If you are boarded by the Coast Guard and probably any other legal authority for where you sail they can fine you for failure to have it closed unless they give you some slack and just cite you.

smokey73 · May 9, 2023

@jviss Sorry, I was speaking to @Sean K who had the "odd problem" and attributed it to having one or more "waste overboard discharge" valves open when sailing, presumably in a no-dischrge zone since he was racing and probably not far offshore. I assumed that he was not aware that they were required by regulation to be secured closed let alone to make sure they were not open when inside a no-discharge zone.

Sean K · May 9, 2023

Yes, thanks guys, I’m aware of the requirements, I do have my “Y” valve locked in the position to send all waste to the holding tank. The odd problem I was talking about was the posibility of water entering the boat on a hard tack in rough water, port rail in the water and both thru-hulls open (Mascerator and direct overboard). I thought the vented loops on those two hoses may have been under the waterline and that’s how I was taking on water. Those two thru-hulls are now closed and will remain so.
Alway appreciate advise and comments, thanks.

Sean K · May 9, 2023

Jviss
I’ve taken the measurements of the hard sliding companionway cover you have circled in red. Mine looks identical to yours. The cover is not symetrical and as you know has a rising curved front edge. The Traveller is attached to the rearmost edge.
The outside to outside rear width at the rear (in front of the Traveller) is 27.5”. The total length is 37.5” including the front curved part. From the rear edge to the beginning of the curved part in front is 30” (back to beginning of front curve). As you can see from the pictures there is a raised edge around the entire platform, but it is not symmetrical either. At the rear most edge the raised edge is 2.25” wide and it tapers down to 1.5” wide where the front curve begins. As you also know there are two raised bars within the platform, the rear one is 18” X 3.25” and the forward one is 17 X 3.25”.

So if it was square it would round up to be 27.5 X 37.5 inches total; and the part that excludes the curved front is 27.5 X 30 inches. The raised border is less than 1/2 inch high from the back to the beginning of the front curve. The front curve raises to about 4 inches.
Let me know if you understand all this. Feel free to call 312 304-1166
Sean

Sean K · May 10, 2023

OK, For the width Subtract 2.25 from 27.5, for 25.25 inches inside the raised edge and 30 minus 2.25 for the length or 27.75 inches, So 27.75 long and 25.25 wide. This is the inside dimension where I subtract the width of the raised edge from the total width. The length is limited by the front curve which begins 30” from the rear edge (traveler) And has a 7” radius at it’s peak.
Glad to help, let me know if you need more.

This solar panel would be partially covered by the boom and sail bag. If you have A Bimini top you should consider putting a soft solar panel on top of it. Larger panel and less obstruction of the sun. No?

Sean K · May 10, 2023

Yes, the inside dimension without going into the curved front section is 27.25 long and 25.25 wide. Please note that the raised edge is only about 1/2 inch high above the inside and the inside does have two raised bars of the same height, so mounting inside the raised edge would be almost level with the raised perimeter edge, not below it (approximately). I’m not familiar with the dimensions of solar panels so it’s impossible for me to recommend anything.
I understand the benefit of adding a solar panel even if just to prolong the depletoon of the batteries while underway or on the “hook”. It’s one solution, for me I just added increased battery capacity, but I mostly hook up to electricity at night and run the charger. One problem with the southern part of Lake Michigan is that there are few good anchorage bays to stay the night.