Reef line separated in boom
- Thread starter Jwhy
- Start date
Ouch!! If you reefing line looks like the leftmost diagram below and you can remove the end cap then fish a wire tape with a messenger line attached to it under the end block and over the block nearest to the mast then out, then attach new reef line to the messenger line and pull it through. An alternative is to abandon the internal reefing line and install a cheek block on the boom, then to a cleat on the boom like the rightmost diagram or through a turning block to a cleat on the mast. In case you are having trouble doing that then suggest a rigger retrieve the line.
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I dunno. I recently put all new running rigging on my Catalina 315. Well, except for the reef line that's in the boom.
When the day comes that I need to replace it I'll either take the boom to the local rigger (ugh), or search the net for the answer. Or, I'll be tempted to attach a couple cheek blocks to the outside of the boom and have the system on the outside where it belongs. I did that on my Catalina 28 and didn't regret it.
When the day comes that I need to replace it I'll either take the boom to the local rigger (ugh), or search the net for the answer. Or, I'll be tempted to attach a couple cheek blocks to the outside of the boom and have the system on the outside where it belongs. I did that on my Catalina 28 and didn't regret it.
This is much simpler than you think, and you may not have to remove the end-cap of the boom at all. It is unlikely that the C34 is different setup from my C36 with any added intermediary blocks or wires, so it is just a line running loosely through the boom.
You will need a small electrician fish-tape (a length of stiff wire in a holder) from your local big-box hardware store for about $15 that is at least as long as the boom, so not a 100-foot monster. Just run the fish tape through the block on either end, along the boom, and grab it through the block at the other end. A little grease on the end will make turning that first corner easier. Using pliers or a bent-over coat hanger in a loop allows you to grab it at the other end through the small hole of the block, and pull it up. Attach your new reef line, and pull her through.
If this really does not work, you could dismount the boom and hold it vertically (a stairwell or tall ladder helps). Drop a pilot line through with a small weight like a fishing lead, and fish that out as above.
The diagram on the left that @sail sfbay showed is good, but is a double-line reef, so there are two lines at the base of the mast to pull. If you took the line coming from the the clew through the boom up to the reefing cringle at the mast and back down again, it would make this single-line reefing.
You will need a small electrician fish-tape (a length of stiff wire in a holder) from your local big-box hardware store for about $15 that is at least as long as the boom, so not a 100-foot monster. Just run the fish tape through the block on either end, along the boom, and grab it through the block at the other end. A little grease on the end will make turning that first corner easier. Using pliers or a bent-over coat hanger in a loop allows you to grab it at the other end through the small hole of the block, and pull it up. Attach your new reef line, and pull her through.
If this really does not work, you could dismount the boom and hold it vertically (a stairwell or tall ladder helps). Drop a pilot line through with a small weight like a fishing lead, and fish that out as above.
The diagram on the left that @sail sfbay showed is good, but is a double-line reef, so there are two lines at the base of the mast to pull. If you took the line coming from the the clew through the boom up to the reefing cringle at the mast and back down again, it would make this single-line reefing.
Very true on not needing to remove the end caps. I removed mine because I needed to cut the holes for the SLR blocks and was upgrading the outhaul system from 3:1 to 12:1 which is very nice for controlling a loose foot main.
Thanks to all!
I was lucky because the break was close the mast and between the mast and the internal block that the leech and luff lines share. I could see the break from the end of the boom where there is a opening large enough for the internal block to exit. By pulling on the leech line I retrieved the block with plenty of broken luff line still in the block. That gave me a messenger and I was off and running. Turned out to be a fun project.
Jeff
I was lucky because the break was close the mast and between the mast and the internal block that the leech and luff lines share. I could see the break from the end of the boom where there is a opening large enough for the internal block to exit. By pulling on the leech line I retrieved the block with plenty of broken luff line still in the block. That gave me a messenger and I was off and running. Turned out to be a fun project.
Jeff
Thanks for posting this diagram on the left! I never liked the way my single-line reefing was rigged. I am going to change to 2-line reefing except the luff line is going to be secured only at the mast, on a cleat that I have looking exactly like the diagram on the right!
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,984
Scott. If you were inclined to leave the cockpit to reef, then you keep the single line in the boom and lower the main to the reef cringle and slip the cringle on to a reefing hook (a part of the goose neck).
I would but I don't have a reefing hook (ram's horn). I suppose it could be added. I don't mind going forward to the mast, but I could also lead the line from the luff back to the cockpit if I want to. I'll try to avoid an additional line in the cockpit for a while before I decide to do that. I've been using it as single line reefing and I'm not really satisfied with it, so I think I'll try something new!
I find that the single reef line on the 320 actually works pretty well. The resulting sail shape isn’t perfect but the ease and speed of reefing is excellent. On the other hand, bigger boats with bigger mains that I have owned or crewed, reef better with two lines. The real issue with the 320 is that only one reef point is standard. When I replace the main I’ll add at least a second point and probably convert to dual lines.
I followed @Hayden Watson s advice on setting up a single line reefing system. I attached Harkins Carbo Air Blocks to the reef points on the sail. By removing the friction of the line going through reef crinkles the tension at the tack and clew balances nicely. Another part of reducing the friction is not to not pull the luff reef tight to the boom. Leave it up 8 to 10” so the reef line does not rub on the sail.
Works well.
Works well.
Glad you got it working well. I hadn't heard back from you after you finished your setup.
Sorry I didn’t follow up.
Yes, following your advice and procedure I can put in a reef in under 60 seconds without having to head into the wind. Tension is well balanced between tack and clew.
Here is the block I use. It is a 40mm carbo block with a soft shackle to a welded SS ring. Works great. When I first set up my SLR I could not get the clew to come down due to the high friction. adding bearing blocks on both cringles made all of the difference. I also drop my halyard to a premeasured point where the reef tack cringle is about 6" above the boom. This keeps the lead to the tack block fair and free running.
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It is a game changer, right! I really like it when I am racing in a JAB race in the 20-25 knot range. I reef upwind and blow the pants off of all the unreefed boats and then I shake out the reef for the run and stay in the front. win, win!
What a great use for a soft shackle. I tied the blocks on following the Harkin instructions. I wasnt tying soft shackles back then but since then I’ve made several so I’ll switch to them over the winter.