Persistent air in Fuel - yanmar 3GMD

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
704
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
I have been battling an issue in which I have been continually getting air in my fuel system. it normally takes between 25 to 45 minutes to show up. I bleed the system either while it's running or after it stalls and within a 2-15 minute time span it does it again.

I've been chasing this leak which I originally thought it was a fuel starvation or fuel contamination issue. Some of the things I have done already are as follows but not in this order:

- Changed the fuel pickup tube, tank valve, anti-siphon valve and fuel hose to primary Racor 200 series filter.
- removed and filtered (polished) all fuel at 30, 10 & 2 microns. (only about 12 gallons left of the approx 18 gallon tank). Fuel was a little dirty at the bottom of tank, that fuel was properly discarded. The only access to the tank is the through the sender unit hole.
- checked and cleared tank vent line.
- replaced the 2 micron primary filter with another 2 micron filter, then a ten micron filter.
- replaced the fuel return hose.
- replaced the fuel hose from the primary Racor filter to the lift pump.
- replaced all primary Racor seals and primer pump assembly. Also removed housing to confirm no blockages in Racor check valve, replaced ball, seal and cap.
- replaced secondary yanmar filter and bowl o-ring seal.
- replaced yanmar lift pump.
- replaced all those copper washers; before and after lift pump, before and after secondary yanmar filter housing, and at injection pump.

It's odd that it takes awhile for the problem to appear. I have never had fuel issues in the past, and never had to remove water from the oil water separated of the rancor filter. The engine is maintained regularly by me and has less than 2200 hours - 38 years old. I run the engine hard at 2,800 rpms to keep exhaust clean and avoid excessive idling. I replaced the mixing elbow (stainless) about five years ago. water flow is good, operating temperatures are normal.

I am pretty convinced it is an air issue because I can bleed it after it starts occurring and it'll be good for a few minutes and then it comes back. Other times it can run for 45 minutes under load perfectly and then all of a sudden it starts to shake and there's a loss of power to accelerate.

The only seals I have not changed is the bleeder's seal and that other screw on the top of the secondary yanmar filter housing. I will do that today as well as change the secondary filter (only because it is out) and O-ring.

I tried running fuel from a Jerry can directly to the racor filter (same issue), and directly to the lift pump but have had the same issue. I will try again directly to lift pump.

I also plan on possibly removing all the fuel and loosening the mounts to the fuel tank so I can get the last little bit out by tilting.

I use teflon tape for all the fittings on top of the tank and the rancor filter. I used all new hose clamps; the non perforated kind so they won't cut fuel lines.

When I bleed it normally only needs it prior to the injection pump or on top of the secondary filter. I haven't bled the top of the injectors - never had to do this in the past.

Any suggestions or checks would be appreciated. Needless to say it says cut into my sailing time.

Thanks for your help.
 
Jul 23, 2009
881
Beneteau 31 Oceanis Grand Lake, Oklahoma
When you tried the jerry can, was it above or below the engine? How much?
 
Jul 23, 2009
881
Beneteau 31 Oceanis Grand Lake, Oklahoma
Have you checked inside the air filter housing? Maybe you sucked up something and it floats around until it gets sucked up and blocks off the air flow. Does the engine smoke when it looses power?
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
704
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
When you tried the jerry can, was it above or below the engine? How much?
level of Jerry can was about the same as the fuel tank.

also, the racor filter is at the level of the upper 1/3 of the tank. No changes made, always worked well this way.

thanks
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
704
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Have you checked inside the air filter housing? Maybe you sucked up something and it floats around until it gets sucked up and blocks off the air flow. Does the engine smoke when it looses power?
which housing are you referring to? assume you mean block off fuel flow. if this is regards assume to the yanmar secondary filter. as noted, I plan on changing the top seals, filter and o ring today to recheck
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,250
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
I tried running fuel from a Jerry can directly to the racor filter (same issue), and directly to the lift pump but have had the same issue. I will try again directly to lift pump.
Well, if you still have the problem running directly to the lift pump, you should focus your attention from that point forward rather than spending any more time messing with the connections between the tank and the Racor. I'm not sure why you would want to waste time screwing around with your fuel tank mounts, etc. at this point. Unless you have multiple problems that materialized at the same time (possible, I guess, but not too likely), you should look at the on-engine issues vs. the fuel system ahead of the engine.

I think you should you try bypassing the on-engine filter and, making sure that you have totally pristine fuel, run it from the jerry can straight to the high pressure injection pump. On some Yanmar models, at least--including my little 1GM--those on-engine filters are notorious for getting hairline cracks in the housing and allowing air in them. (That's also true for the Racor filter housings on the smaller Racor units, but you said you still have the problem even when you bypassed your Racor.)

I had plenty of issues with the one on my engine until I eliminated the on-engine Yanmar filter entirely. I fitted a monster-sized Racor 500, the output of which I feed directly to the high pressure pump, and eliminated all of my fuel issues. I also replaced the on-engine mechanical lift pump with a Facet electric pump, so the flow is: Tank --> Racor 500 --> Facet pump --> Injection pump. My only bleed points are now at the injection pump and the injector itself--though the injector typically does not need bleeding. I don't know whether your engine's lift pump is mechanical or electric, but I recommend going with electric for two reasons, at least: (1) It makes bleeding the engine a cinch; (2) you don't have to worry about a breach in the mechanical pump's diaphragm allowing diesel fuel into your crankcase. Switching to an electric pump is simply a matter of disconnecting the mechanical one and hooking up the electric one in its place; there's no need to remove the mechanical pump.
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
704
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Well, if you still have the problem running directly to the lift pump, you should focus your attention from that point forward rather than spending any more time messing with the connections between the tank and the Racor. I'm not sure why you would want to waste time screwing around with your fuel tank mounts, etc. at this point. Unless you have multiple problems that materialized at the same time (possible, I guess, but not too likely), you should look at the on-engine issues vs. the fuel system ahead of the engine.
good advice, not easily tested since from the filter housing to the injection pump has those Bango type fittings and hard piped. BTW, I changed that hard piping a 3-5 years ago with the yanmar part since it was pretty bad shape (rusted) and wanted to start new
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,250
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
good advice, not easily tested since from the filter housing to the injection pump has those Bango type fittings and hard piped. BTW, I changed that hard piping a 3-5 years ago with the yanmar part since it was pretty bad shape (rusted) and wanted to start new
Actually, it's not too hard to do at all, with a few plumbing bits.

Just get the appropriately-sized banjo fittings that have a barb on the end, and run a short piece of fuel hose between the output of your lift pump and the input of the high pressure pump.

Here's a picture of what it looks like on my engine. As I mentioned, I bypassed my on-engine filter entirely, and run directly from the electric pump to the high pressure pump. I rely on the huge Racor 500 for all of my filtering needs. That filter always seems to stay clean, by the way, but I change it every year or so "just because."

By the way: The diverter valve shown in the photo allows me to divert the flow from the electric pump to the injector return line, which runs straight to the tank. This makes priming the large Racor really easy when doing filter changes. It could also be used for fuel polishing, I suppose.

Banjo fitting.jpg
 
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Jan 4, 2006
7,229
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
The whole problem here is you're treating the fuel system and engine too damn good and it just doesn't appreciate it :biggrin:. Just like some women I used to know.

I am pretty convinced it is an air issue because I can bleed it after it starts occurring and it'll be good for a few minutes and then it comes back. Other times it can run for 45 minutes under load perfectly and then all of a sudden it starts to shake and there's a loss of power to accelerate.
From what you're reported, my first thoughts would also go to air ingress as the problem.

Consider disconnecting your supply tube from the fuel tank and running it up to a good elevation on your boat. 6 ft.+ if you can get it. You may have to add some other odd tubing to do this but it's all temporary. Use a small funnel to fill the tube to its highest level and you have now applied a 6' head of diesel fuel to the lower parts of your fuel supply system upstream of your primary fuel transfer pump. Air leaks cannot exist downstream of the primary as the presure is above atm. pressure. Use common sense in setting this up for excluding air from the tubing and any other items. You may also want to plug the tubing where it enters the primary pump to eliminate any other unknowns.

If there's an air leak, it's likely going to show as a fuel leak. Leave for a few days. Wrap with TP to show small leaks. Check every inch of the system between the two points.

If no leaks show ...................................... NEXT ! ! ! !
 
Jul 23, 2009
881
Beneteau 31 Oceanis Grand Lake, Oklahoma
which housing are you referring to? assume you mean block off fuel flow. if this is regards assume to the yanmar secondary filter. as noted, I plan on changing the top seals, filter and o ring today to recheck
The air intake for the motor. A diesel motor mostly needs air and fuel to run. You have just about gone through the entire fuel system. Time to at least take a look inside the air filter housing.
 
Jul 23, 2009
881
Beneteau 31 Oceanis Grand Lake, Oklahoma
The whole problem here is you're treating the fuel system and engine too damn good and it just doesn't appreciate it :biggrin:. Just like some women I used to know.



From what you're reported, my first thoughts would also go to air ingress as the problem.

Consider disconnecting your supply tube from the fuel tank and running it up to a good elevation on your boat. 6 ft.+ if you can get it. You may have to add some other odd tubing to do this but it's all temporary. Use a small funnel to fill the tube to its highest level and you have now applied a 6' head of diesel fuel to the lower parts of your fuel supply system upstream of your primary fuel transfer pump. Air leaks cannot exist downstream of the primary as the presure is above atm. pressure. Use common sense in setting this up for excluding air from the tubing and any other items. You may also want to plug the tubing where it enters the primary pump to eliminate any other unknowns.

If there's an air leak, it's likely going to show as a fuel leak. Leave for a few days. Wrap with TP to show small leaks. Check every inch of the system between the two points.

If no leaks show ...................................... NEXT ! ! ! !
Exactly why I questioned the placement of the jerry can.
 
Jul 23, 2009
881
Beneteau 31 Oceanis Grand Lake, Oklahoma
I'm too lazy to look it up. Is the lift pump between the injector pump and the secondary/engine mounted fuel filter?
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,229
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Primary fuel filter first, then the primary fuel pump (fuel lift pump), next then the secondary fuel filter, and finally the HP fuel pump if we're talking about the same beasts.
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
704
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
The whole problem here is you're treating the fuel system and engine too damn good and it just doesn't appreciate it :biggrin:. Just like some women I used to know.
I hear ya! I didn't do anything wrong...

From what you're reported, my first thoughts would also go to air ingress as the problem.

Consider disconnecting your supply tube from the fuel tank and running it up to a good elevation on your boat. 6 ft.+ if you can get it. You may have to add some other odd tubing to do this but it's all temporary. Use a small funnel to fill the tube to its highest level and you have now applied a 6' head of diesel fuel to the lower parts of your fuel supply system upstream of your primary fuel transfer pump. Air leaks cannot exist downstream of the primary as the presure is above atm. pressure.
If there's an air leak, it's likely going to show as a fuel leak.
So you think the air is getting in prior to the lift pump?

thanks, and I value your opinion.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,229
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
So you think the air is getting in prior to the lift pump?
Well, according to theory, only before the lift pump.

All fittings after the lift pump will see positive pressure while in operation. Air at Atm. pressure cannot enter any leaks at that time. The tubing to the suction side of the pump COULD be under negative pressure, which MAY be the case with your problem. Depends on the elevation of the fuel tank, obstruction in the tubing, velocity of the fuel in the tubing and a few other etcetras.

Let us know how the hydrostatic test goes.
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
704
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
The fuel tank is above the elevation of the lift pump. More or less even with the bottom of the tank.

I didn't observe and drips at any of the fillings after 16-18 hours - over night and then some.

couldn't hurt so checked torque on secondary fuel pump banjo fittings: 17 mm head, M10 to 20 foot lbs. also, torqued fuel pump exit to approx 15 ft lbs: 14mm head so assume M8 bolt. got the 14mm head and housing Bango bolts to move a little. this should further eliminate after the lift pump.

also thought that O-ring for secondary filter looked a little elongated so replaced it with filter which looked fine. little dark at bottom. No visible debris.
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
704
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
The air intake for the motor. A diesel motor mostly needs air and fuel to run. You have just about gone through the entire fuel system. Time to at least take a look inside the air filter housing.
I ran it previously, but not mentioned without air filter but had same issue. Good thought though. I will take the filter out for all further tested to be sure.

BTW, I used a rubber plug in the intake over the winter to prevent issues after blasting the intake with some WD-40.

I also plug the exhaust after winterization and draining lift muffler.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,229
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
this should further eliminate after the lift pump.
After the pump doesn't enter the equation.

Those crushable copper washers were a real pain a few years ago. I have since have replaced them with the newer washers which contain a rubber strip in the copper face. No more leaks.

You will not believe where air leaks can occur.
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
704
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
where did you get those? McMaster Carr?

Also are they technically crush washers? Seems solid. Crush washers I thought were like we would see on a spark plug
 
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