Single handing
- Thread starter WI Rigger
- Start date
In my ASA reading, it talks about marking the anchor rode in 10‘ increments. So, would that be done by using electrical tape (white) and writing the footage in the tape? I am not sure how the tape would stick after being submerged. How have anyone of you marked your rode? Is there a better way? Might I use the tape designed for taping the spreaders?
Thank You
Ric
Thank You
Ric
Needle and colored thread.
Do it in pairs. The first set of markings are to plumb the depth, the second matching set of colors are for the scope.
-Will
Do it in pairs. The first set of markings are to plumb the depth, the second matching set of colors are for the scope.
-Will
This will depend somewhat on the waters you expect to anchor in. Let's say never more than 50', for an example. You want to anchor using the standard 7:1 scope. That means you pick your spot and pay the anchor line out until you reach the bottom. You look at the marks in your line, every ten feet. The first ten feet or so is chain, easy enough to tell the depth there, call that color silver. 70' back is a whipping of silver thread to know where to tie off. If the 20' mark is a whipping of red thread, then at 140' you have a matching red mark in the line. You get the idea.
Now, let's say the bottom is at 36', right in between the blue 30' mark and the green 40' mark. You drop the anchor and there's an approximate 4' of rode in your hand. You can either just call it 40' (that's what I would do) or you could put a series of 10' black marks between the 2nd set of colored marks. You've measured 36' to the bottom, the 30' mark is blue. Pay out to the blue mark and continue counting black marks (6' x 7 = 42'). So, you count 4 more black marks plus one (just to be conservative).
-Will
Now, let's say the bottom is at 36', right in between the blue 30' mark and the green 40' mark. You drop the anchor and there's an approximate 4' of rode in your hand. You can either just call it 40' (that's what I would do) or you could put a series of 10' black marks between the 2nd set of colored marks. You've measured 36' to the bottom, the 30' mark is blue. Pay out to the blue mark and continue counting black marks (6' x 7 = 42'). So, you count 4 more black marks plus one (just to be conservative).
-Will
Defender Anchor Rode Marker Set - 41357
Features: Anchor Rode Marker Set Applications: Anchor line Function: Shows the amount of anchor line payed out at a glance Nine-piece set 3 Green: 30, 60, 90 3 Red: 120, 150, 180 3 Yellow: 210,
If the marina is deep enough, I do not need to raise my keel every time I enter the marina?
With a retractable keel, I will need to clean thee keel trunk every year after I take it out of the water for the winter? To do that, I will need to have it off of the trailer?
Thanks
R
With a retractable keel, I will need to clean thee keel trunk every year after I take it out of the water for the winter? To do that, I will need to have it off of the trailer?
Thanks
R
When you motor out of the marina, do you set the motor straight and use the rudder, or do you pull the rudder out of the water and steer with the outboard? The prior owner of my boat tried locking down the motor and steering with the rudder, turned to sharply and nicked the rudder with the prop.
Thanks
Ric
Thanks
Ric
These types of questions are usually answered through personal experience. Some sailors prefer to steer with the rudder while others prefer the motor. It also depends on your mounting setup. How hard is it to use the outboard's tiller and see where you're going? There are even blogs about tieing the rudder and the motor together so they turn with each other.
I personally would raise the CB when not under sail. Less action working the CB pin and less headway resistance. Also, knock off a little growth by raising and lowering the board.
-Will
I personally would raise the CB when not under sail. Less action working the CB pin and less headway resistance. Also, knock off a little growth by raising and lowering the board.
-Will
I always use mostly the rudder on my H23, occasionally when in tight quarters also the outboard. The rudder gives you much more control at slow speeds when you need to shift the motor in and out of neutral. To prevent prop damage to the rudder, I added stainless steel curved guards to the outboard, the type they claim increase thrust. I added them only as protection, I didn't care about any purported performance improvement.
Usually you should have one cable coming off the battery bank to a house switching panel. That cable should have a fuse (not a breaker) within7” of the battery. At the switching panel you can have breakers or fuses for individual circuits. The depth sounder would be an additional circuit off that panel, or you could share a depth sounder with any other navigation types of equipment that would be on at the same time. Just be sure the breaker is sized for at least all of the loads and at most the size of the wire it’s protecting.
Is there a way of finding out the outline of the ballast tank? I am looking at install an in-hull transducer and it should not be above the ballast tank. I have looked through the Owners Manual, nothing there giving the outline or location.
Thanks
Ric
Thanks
Ric
When the boat is in the water you can test locations to make sure you find one that will work. Put the transducer in a bag of water and lay the bag on the hull. As long as there are no air voids between the bay and the hull the transducer should work anyplace where there are no obstructions.
I made this masthead weather vane out of 1 1/2x 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle. It is 10 inches long. I think it will look good on my masthead.
Ric
Ric
