Hunter 30T - 1991 - Dinette Table/Counter weight issue

[ErikHunter30T]

Hello all,
I'm having trouble lowering the dinette table in my '91 Hunter 30T. I can lift the table up, but it will not drop down. It feels like the counter-weight inside the post that's attached to the cord just will not budge. I've squirted some WD40 down the top hole near the sheave, but nothing budging. There is some corrosion built up where the cord connects to the post exterior, but it's so rusted up I'm not sure if that's supposed to move? See pics attached.

I'm considering cutting the cord entirely, and then just raising/lowering the table manually, but wanted to check the forum here to see if anyone else had an idea before i make the cut.

thanks!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

One of these may help:

Hunter 336 Dinette Table Lift

There's a rope coming out of the top of the pole that my dinette table moves up and down on. Does anyone know it's function? It currently doesn't do anything. Thanks.

forums.sailboatowners.com

Table Weight - Hunter 376

So I removed my mast step to attempt to release the table weight as it has rusted to the inside of the tube (great engineering there, steel weight on a boat). I have poured in enough anti-seize to empty 2 cans on both the top and bottom of the weight and let it soak for 2 weeks. I have hit it...

forums.sailboatowners.com

 

[Rich Stidger]

@ErikHunter30T - I am confused. Does the line that exits the top of the compression post attach to the table or to the external post? Do you know why there is so much rust and corrosion at the external line connection? And lastly, have you ever had mast leaks? The corrosion at the sheave screws suggest that water has entered the compression post.

I have a similar problem and IIRC I drilled a 1/4" hole near the bottom of the compression post. A LOT of water sprayed out. Afterward the counterweight was free and the table went up and down. I did spray the counterweight with WD40 and worked it up and down to free it up. I concluded that the counterweight fits fairly snugly in the compression post and if there is water in the bottom the weight just will not drop below the water. Since I can't see inside easily, I could be wrong.

In any event, I would like to know how your table is connected to the counterweight and what purpose of the external line connection to the co,pression post serves.

 

[ErikHunter30T]

@ErikHunter30T - I am confused. Does the line that exits the top of the compression post attach to the table or to the external post? Do you know why there is so much rust and corrosion at the external line connection? And lastly, have you ever had mast leaks? The corrosion at the sheave screws suggest that water has entered the compression post.

Hey Rich,
The line coming out of the top where the sheave is connects to a part in the exterior post in the middle, which is where the table connects to post. That part will move up and laterally back and forth, but won't go below normal table-top height to convert into a berth. Attaching a better photo to show you what i mean, and how it's connected to the post. I don't know why there's corrosion there in the middle of the post where the line ends/starts, and i especially don't know if the line was supposed to move freely through that corroded part or not, but it is totally rusted in place there. Nor sure about Mast leaks, this boat is a new-to-me that's otherwise in great shape
Thanks!

 

[Rich Stidger]

So when you move the table up and down, does the line on the sheave move in and out of the mast post? When you lift the table, does the line retract into the sheave and mast post?
But you can't move the table lower than normal height? Do I have that correct?

If what I just stated is correct, then when the table is lowered to normal height, can you determine if the counter-weight in the mast post is at the top by the sheave? You could poke a curved wire into the top of the sheave and see if you can feel the counterweight. If this is the case, then I suspect that the PO may have shortened the line so that it stops at normal height. Maybe he never used the table for a berth.
It bothers me that the line terminated on the outside is stuck/seized and cannot be loosened or removed from the attachment point.

 

[ErikHunter30T]

So when you move the table up and down, does the line on the sheave move in and out of the mast post? When you lift the table, does the line retract into the sheave and mast post?
But you can't move the table lower than normal height? Do I have that correct?

If what I just stated is correct, then when the table is lowered to normal height, can you determine if the counter-weight in the mast post is at the top by the sheave? You could poke a curved wire into the top of the sheave and see if you can feel the counterweight. If this is the case, then I suspect that the PO may have shortened the line so that it stops at normal height. Maybe he never used the table for a berth.
It bothers me that the line terminated on the outside is stuck/seized and cannot be loosened or removed from the attachment point.

Hey Rich,
When i move the table up, the exterior line slacks, but doesn't pull into the post as it presumably would if the counterbalance was moving/pulling. The sheave rotates fine. When i move the table down, the line tightens and won't go past a certain point, which is normal table-height. I tried sticking a fully-extended wire hanger down there to determine/feel the height of the counterweight, but the wire wasn't long enough to hit wherever the weight is in the post, so it must be pretty far down toward the bottom.
I'm still trying to determine the reason for the line termination on the outside. I've been scouring the internet for pictures of this section of the post from other boats, and I can't find any other photos. I wondered if they cut the line on the outside, knotted the bitter end, and then let it corrode over there. If that's the case, i'll have to cut it out.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Are there any other Hunter 30T vessels at your marina that you could get a look at?
You could also re-post your questions and pictures in the Hunter Mid-Size Boat forum. I am surprised that you have not received any answers from 30T owners. This board has several sub-forums under Hunter, the "Mid-Size" forum being one of them.

You could also search for other 30T owners and send them a private message- Here is how to do that:
On the left side menu, click "Members", then "Member search". Enter "Hunter" and "30T" and search. Look for the members that have the most recent postings and message them. Just click on their name and send a private message.

 

[artboas]

@ErikHunter30T - I am confused. Does the line that exits the top of the compression post attach to the table or to the external post? Do you know why there is so much rust and corrosion at the external line connection? And lastly, have you ever had mast leaks? The corrosion at the sheave screws suggest that water has entered the compression post.

I have a similar problem and IIRC I drilled a 1/4" hole near the bottom of the compression post. A LOT of water sprayed out. Afterward the counterweight was free and the table went up and down. I did spray the counterweight with WD40 and worked it up and down to free it up. I concluded that the counterweight fits fairly snugly in the compression post and if there is water in the bottom the weight just will not drop below the water. Since I can't see inside easily, I could be wrong.

In any event, I would like to know how your table is connected to the counterweight and what purpose of the external line connection to the co,pression post serves.

Funny you should mention this.
When I had my 40.5. I decided to drill a hole at the base of the compression post. I wasn’t encountering any problems, but I just thought that logically there should be a drain.
Well, a bloody fountain came out!!!
Now, I can only imagine it was somehow from the rig, and I had already solved my ceiling leaks. So, if this would have been a salt water boat, it would have been a much worse story.
The moral here, is that anyone with an aluminum compression post should ensure there is a drain hole at the bottom !!!

 

[ErikHunter30T]

I have an update here. the great people at Hunter Marlow sent a diagram of the interior workings of the compression post, for anyone who needs it, attaching it here. For my situation, I stuck a wireless endoscope down the compression post to check the status of the counterweight, and basically it was rusted solid to the post. No amount of rust penetrant or banging would free it. I ended up cutting the line to free the tension completely, and now i can move the table down to berth position. It's a little tough getting it back up to table position, but not impossible.

 

[Dan_Y]

here is a write up I did some time back on the 1991 30T compression post issues.
dan

Hello all,
I'm having trouble lowering the dinette table in my '91 Hunter 30T. I can lift the table up, but it will not drop down. It feels like the counter-weight inside the post that's attached to the cord just will not budge. I've squirted some WD40 down the top hole near the sheave, but nothing budging. There is some corrosion built up where the cord connects to the post exterior, but it's so rusted up I'm not sure if that's supposed to move? See pics attached.

I'm considering cutting the cord entirely, and then just raising/lowering the table manually, but wanted to check the forum here to see if anyone else had an idea before i make the cut.

thanks!