F*!$#ing Scupper hoses

[d-marko]

Not sure if you ever completed this project, but I recently did mine. this thread was helpful, so i thought i'd share my experience - It was a PITA until i figured out how to do it. On mine i have PVC fittings at both ends (the hull-side fitting rotates). I was able to get the hose back on by pre-bending the hose, slipping it onto the cockpit deck side fitting, and then rotating the hull fitting by hand so it pushed the hose onto the fitting. I used trident 250 rubber hose, it also helped that i used one size larger than the fitting (hose was 1-5/8, fitting was for 1-1/2 hose). I have a pic i can share if it helps.

fyi i had the job professionally estimated and the yard recommended shields 252 corrugated hose. Another option that i came across in my research that i believe should work is the trident 101/102 sanitation hose which seems to be very flexible, but i have not handled it. hope this helps.

 

[Hayden Watson]

I have a pic i can share if it helps.

A pic would be nice. This might be a job on my haul out this spring. I do not think it would be too good of an idea to try in the water. I was thinking that it might be easiest to remove the through hull fitting and install the new hose to the scupper fitting in the cockpit. Then reinstall the through hull, screwing it into the hose as you go.

 

[d-marko]

Here is a pic showng the fittings I have. I believe these are original. As i mentioned, I rotated the hull fitting (at top) counterclockwise away from the hose, inserted the hose over the deck fitting (at bottom), and then rotated the hull fitting clockwise again to force the hose over the fitting. Wasn't too hard to do it this way.

My fittings are sealed in so i would not recommend removing the fittings. It is doable in the water but I would recommend doing it on the hard if it can wait.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Here is a pic showng the fittings I have. I believe these are original. As i mentioned, I rotated the hull fitting (at top) counterclockwise away from the hose, inserted the hose over the deck fitting (at bottom), and then rotated the hull fitting clockwise again to force the hose over the fitting. Wasn't too hard to do it this way.

My fittings are sealed in so i would not recommend removing the fittings. It is doable in the water but I would recommend doing it on the hard if it can wait.

If I am understanding your method correctly, you backed off the 90º female / barb elebow 1/4 turn and then retightened it, sliding the hose on in the process. Did you find any eveidence of the threads leaking due to disturbing the pipe dope? I have always been taught that if you loosen a fitting once it has been tightened, you need to remove and redope.

 

[d-marko]

If I am understanding your method correctly, you backed off the 90º female / barb elebow 1/4 turn and then retightened it, sliding the hose on in the process. Did you find any eveidence of the threads leaking due to disturbing the pipe dope? I have always been taught that if you loosen a fitting once it has been tightened, you need to remove and redope.

Yes thats how I did it. Good point, although its looks like its pfte tape rather than pipe dope (not sure if this alleviates that issue). I haven't had the new hose on long enough to see if there is any leaking, but I'm willing to live with it for now. I suppose you could take the elbow all the way off and retape/seal it when putting the hose back on

 

[Hayden Watson]

Yes thats how I did it. Good point, although its looks like its pfte tape rather than pipe dope (not sure if this alleviates that issue). I haven't had the new hose on long enough to see if there is any leaking, but I'm willing to live with it for now. I suppose you could take the elbow all the way off and retape/seal it when putting the hose back on

Just to be sure that you do not have any leaking, you can make several non-waterproof marker lines around the fittings. that way, if there is ever a leak there, you will see the lines washed away. FWIW, I would think that the ptfe tape is probably worse at resealing after loosening because it balls up with you tighten the fitting.

 

[d-marko]

Just to be sure that you do not have any leaking, you can make several non-waterproof marker lines around the fittings. that way, if there is ever a leak there, you will see the lines washed away. FWIW, I would think that the ptfe tape is probably worse at resealing after loosening because it balls up with you tighten the fitting.

Good suggestion, i will try that. At least if it does start leaking i know how to refit the hose now

 

[Jumpstart]

Kind of Gucci but it works. Silicone turbo hoses. Use non perforated clamps. Easy to work with. I used them when I put in a new water lift muffler and the exhaust elbow was a slightly different size outlet. Got em at Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

 

[ontherocks83]

Thanks for the tip. I just checked and the smallest diameter they have is 2'' and I need 1 1/2". Any idea if they are flexible enough to be clamped down that small, or is that just asking for trouble?

 

[Jumpstart]

Blue Silicone Coolant Hoses & Elbows 1 1/2" (38mm) ID - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

These blue silicone coolant hose system parts all have 1 1/2" (38mm) ID. The 3-ply reinforced construction is rated for 22 psi working pressure.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

 

[ontherocks83]

I have a conclusion to this thread! I try as hard as I can to post finished results / conclusions to threads I have started as often as I can, even if it is several months later. I ended up using Raritan sani / flex septic hose. I tried at least a half of dozen different hoses and even the turbo hose that Jumpstart recommended. The turbo hose was good but the bend radius' were too tight and kept folding in on itself. I am sure in other applications they would be very helpful.

The way I ended up winning the war against the hell hole that Catalina Mk1's are known for, was by using the Raritan Sani / flex hose and boiling it in a pot on board. After it boiled for several minutes I removed it with long needle nose pliers and then while wearing mechanics glove pushed it on as quickly as I could. The bends in the picture look like they are kinked but they are actually quite smooth.

Thank you all for your help and advice along the way!!!

I am in the "home stretch" of finishing up the critical parts of my re-fit (so I can get in the water soon) and in the next couple of months I am planning on posting an in depth tthread of what I have gotten done over the winter. The work I did is definitely far from perfect, but I have learned a lot along the way and am hoping to be able to help others that are in, or want to be in a similar situation.

 

[ontherocks83]

Sorry here is the picture. Please excuse the dirtiness of the transom, I haven't had time to pretty it up as much as I want to. But to be honest making the 1984 Catalina 30 hell hole look nice is one of the last projects on my to do list.

 

[doublebuffle]

My transom looks about the same. I just pulled the exhaust hose out to replace the through-hull with the flapper style. I have the bruises and cuts to prove it!

I have the markers of a scupper replacement job in my future, rust colored stains under the hoses.

 

[ontherocks83]

The bruises and cuts on your forearms from that job are no joke, I was telling someone that after I replaced them my arms looked like I had severe teenager style depression issues. If you have any questions on the scuppers let me know, but I would recommend cutting the old ones off with a Dremel, measure the new ones carefully, and boil the new ones in a pot. Just please don't tell my wife I used one of her pots and not a junk one .

 

[Hayden Watson]

I was in the quarter berth today chasing down a leak at the pedestal and figured that I might as well take a look as long as I had the Q-berth cleaned out. Yep, 32 years is about all they can be expected to last. Not looking forward to it. I have a propane locker mounted in the center of the lazarette which will need to come out before I can even get to them for removal.

 

[ontherocks83]

Hayden can you send pics / description of your propane locker. I want to put in a propane stove buy haven't figured out how to do the propane locker yet.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Hayden can you send pics / description of your propane locker. I want to put in a propane stove buy haven't figured out how to do the propane locker yet.

Mine is based on a off-th-shelf box that is very short and takes a tiny bottle but the previous owner added to the height with a wood surround and lid. The bottle is a very strange size and not cheep made from aluminum. They the OPD valves became a "thing" I contacted a LPG show about getting it re-valved and they told me that would be prohibitive in cost. After I showed them the bottle they said "we will put a new valve on it."
I will post a photo next time I am out there.

 

[doublebuffle]

I pulled the trigger the other day. I spent all of $40 bucks on 1 5/8" exhaust hose. The length was 16 1/4" each (the old ones were both the same coming out out) but this is probably very dependant on your boat.

As you can see, the old hose was well past the point of needing to be replaced. Based on my experience with this boat, I imagine that it is the factory original hose. It still bore the 1 5/8" markings. The OD of the nipples on the 90 degree plastic fitting was about 1.625-1.650" (a lot of variation between them.

After tackling the exhaust flapper job, I was ready to be aggressive with the heat gun and dawn/water mixture but I really didn't need either. The cockpit side came off/went on easily. The drain side took a little bit of "hulk" to come off. It was a matter of finding which combination of rotating and rocking back and forth was necessary. Once I made some initial progress I gently used a set of old adjustable pliers to "save my progress" as the nipples would tend to draw the hose back on again.

As has been noted above, you can rotate the drain side onto the hose, but I did not need to do that.

You may notice from my pictures that I needed to orient the hoses so that they would not come in contact with the quadrant.

 

[ontherocks83]

When I did mine they were STUCK. It took a lot of grunting and yelling to get them off. Afterwards for all the other hoses including the exhaust hose I used a dremel with a wand and a cutting blade. Even without being able to see where I was cutting I would start lightly until I hit the metal wire, i would grind on the wire until I heard it pop / the grinding would stop and then I'd move the dremel down the house just a bit until I hit the next wire.

After you cleared the end of the nipple, the remaining rubber would separate pretty easily. Might sound risky but is easily controlled and efficient. Only down side is the whole burning rubber smell.