Problem with jib halyard

Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
twalker h260. Sorry for delayed response.
I was talking about leaving all halyards and reef lines at the mast, I have read many, many posts on the subject, and for me its more about clutter in the cockpit, deck and keeping it simple. For the owner before me, it was more about racing. I do think about who might own the boat after me, or if anything should change over the next 10 years, so i will keep some things intact if ever needing to change it back. i've also rethought some ideas mentioned earlier, one being the boom lift. I was going to take it out, I have a solid vang, and use a fixed wire to masthead as a backup. However I read recently in another post, how the topping lift can be used as an emergency main halyard, so i've decided to keep it.
 
Last edited:
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
I have refrained from saying anything but there are some things to point out. I wonder about the two spinnaker lines being for a racing style spinnaker vs an A symmetrical spinnaker which requires only a single halyard. Then they appear to run thru a block on top of the forestay which may cause friction.

Then I wonder if the furler itself is too long being too long interfering with the lines exiting from the mast. Then was the jib or Genoa sail ever replaced with it being too long on front? Then the question of the jib halyard not being properly coming out and routed in the proper sequence attached to the furler itself causing friction.

There appears to be more going on from several stand points and will request @Jackdaw and @DrJudyB to chime in as they have good knowledge.

Then the next question is there a spinnaker with the boat and if so which kind. Personally I would shorten the furling extrusion on top and top of jib/ Genoa to allow proper attachment of jib halyard and better flow of lines. If you have an A Symetrical spinnaker, I would either remove the lower spinnaker halyard or follow @jsailem about knotting the end and pull it out till the knot stops at the.sheave to declutter that area of lines.
For now suggest resolving this problem befor talking boom/rigid bangs, topping lift and so on.

Former dealer
 
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Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
Crazy dave.
Thank you. I know that my jib should be first priority but I have no lines i would feel safe climbing. So i have to replace others so i can climb and get a good look at the jib halyard. In the picture I posted earlier, it appears the halyard may be wedged under the forestay, and asked if the mast may not be trimmed correctly.
I have a spinnaker but have not had it out of the bag. I Don't know how to fly a spin, and if it takes all the extra lines to control it, I don't want to use it. I will consider a geneker as jssailem suggested.
About the spin halyards running through the blocks. Ive read that doing it this way protects the sheave.

thanks again.
Lynn
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Lynn.
Wait till Jackdaw or Drjudyb chime in. I was a former dealer now retired but saw some things that may be your problem. Just wait.
 
Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
Will do, Crazy dave. I do not plan on making any mods or ordering anything till i figure it out. I may be taking a trip to the boat sunday. If any specific pictures need taken or other information that might help. Let me know and I can try to get all this weekend.
This is just one of the projects on the boat. I'm also looking at replacing my missing anchor light, radio antenna, and running new wires and coax when I do climb the mast. Iwant to get as much done as possible, and hope to only climb it once. Honestly its the one part of sailing I don't look forward to.
 
Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
Sorry SG. Failed to answer one of your questions. My boat is located on lake texoma . On the Oklahoma side
 
Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
Changing the topic just a little. Ive talked about keeping my halyards at the mast. I will have to exit the lines farther up the mast then they currently are. My question is, will exit plates be sufficient or do i need an exit block.
I know that the three halyards on the front of the mast will have to clear the conduits for electrical and coax, and having the block moves the line farther in than the plate but is it worth the extra money.



Thanks for any advice
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,989
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
When I did my mast refit, we used Exit blocks. They are located above head height so it is easy to reach up and haul down on the line to get a strong lift of the sail.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
I have refrained from saying anything but there are some things to point out. I wonder about the two spinnaker lines being for a racing style spinnaker vs an A symmetrical spinnaker which requires only a single halyard. Then they appear to run thru a block on top of the forestay which may cause friction.

Then I wonder if the furler itself is too long being too long interfering with the lines exiting from the mast. Then was the jib or Genoa sail ever replaced with it being too long on front? Then the question of the jib halyard not being properly coming out and routed in the proper sequence attached to the furler itself causing friction.

There appears to be more going on from several stand points and will request @Jackdaw and @DrJudyB to chime in as they have good knowledge.

Then the next question is there a spinnaker with the boat and if so which kind. Personally I would shorten the furling extrusion on top and top of jib/ Genoa to allow proper attachment of jib halyard and better flow of lines. If you have an A Symetrical spinnaker, I would either remove the lower spinnaker halyard or follow @jsailem about knotting the end and pull it out till the knot stops at the.sheave to declutter that area of lines.
For now suggest resolving this problem befor talking boom/rigid bangs, topping lift and so on.

Former dealer
hey, I can’t tell after scanning the 3 pages of posts if there is still an open question? Lots of random comments. If yes please summarize and I’ll respond.
 
Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
Jackdaw:
After buying my 88 hunter 37 legend, I had it moved to another lake. when moved I did not have any trouble taking the jib down or pulling the slack back through the mast before taking down the mast. After putting the mast back up, waiting till the next season to put Jib back on the roller. I found i could pull the halyard out but it would jam when i tried to pull back to raise the jib.
I believe i have the isomat 60 mast with NG2 Fractional Jib Box: Best i can tell from rigright site and pictures taken from deck. I reattached picture.

Some think the line is off the sheave, from the picture, It looks like the forestay could be wedging it. Maybe the mast is not tuned correctly? problem is i have to replace some other halyards before I can climb the mast to get a closer look. Then I also started thinking about installing exit blocks higher on the mast to keep the halyards at the mast instead of running to the cockpit. I was looking at the Antal 40mm mast block double sheave.

That's the sum of it.

Thanks
Lynn
 

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Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Jackdaw:
After buying my 88 hunter 37 legend, I had it moved to another lake. when moved I did not have any trouble taking the jib down or pulling the slack back through the mast before taking down the mast. After putting the mast back up, waiting till the next season to put Jib back on the roller. I found i could pull the halyard out but it would jam when i tried to pull back to raise the jib.
I believe i have the isomat 60 mast with NG2 Fractional Jib Box: Best i can tell from rigright site and pictures taken from deck. I reattached picture.

Some think the line is off the sheave, from the picture, It looks like the forestay could be wedging it. Maybe the mast is not tuned correctly? problem is i have to replace some other halyards before I can climb the mast to get a closer look. Then I also started thinking about installing exit blocks higher on the mast to keep the halyards at the mast instead of running to the cockpit. I was looking at the Antal 40mm mast block double sheave.

That's the sum of it.

Thanks
Lynn
Your setup look pretty normal. The two spin halyards both exit the mast above the forestay box, and come down to a set of halyard restrainers built into the box. A good all normal. The two spin halyards are more common on race boats, but still a nice add for a cruising boat. Options.

So on to your issue. When the mast was drop/raised, were the halyards unrun then rerun? Allowing then to twist can easily causes a one-way jam. A twist under the box inside the nasty could cause that. You might try and really slack the spin halyards, and see what happens.

An open cotter pin on the forestay, that lets the halyard out, but hooks it on the way in could also cause this. It’s all so close there, and hard to see from a distance.

I really suggest a trip up the mast. We go up every few weeks just to check everything out. This is just good boat hygiene. You get to see everything up close. Have someone go up and it will all become clear. This can be solved in a hour.
 
Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
Before removing the mast they just wrapped the lines around the mast.

I'll go up the mast as soon as I replace a couple of the other halyard,

Do you have an opinion on the exit blocks I want to use?
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Before removing the mast they just wrapped the lines around the mast.

I'll go up the mast as soon as I replace a couple of the other halyard,

Do you have an opinion on the exit blocks I want to use?
I love everything that Antal makes. Exit blocks are a good idea if there is going to be change in the line angle when the halyard is jumped. Normally, the higher the exit is, the less likely that is. We jump our spin halyards at the mast, and they are at 6 feet. The normal exit plate works fine.

On a boat your size, I would never want a spin halyard that was not backed by a clutch and a winch. The loads very quickly can get way beyond a hand load.
 
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Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
I plan to install clutches for all the halyards on the mast and winches.
Good deal. Then I would say that the roller blocks are probably unnecessary, but clearly a matter of personal preference. I for sure wouldn’t say that putting them on would be wrong.
 
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Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
The main reason for the blocks was line wear. And I need to clear the conduits inside the mast.
Using the blocks move the line in helping to clear the conduits and lessening the angles the line will be entering or exiting the block... that's my thinking anyway.

Thanks for the input
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
The main reason for the blocks was line wear. And I need to clear the conduits inside the mast.
Using the blocks move the line in helping to clear the conduits and lessening the angles the line will be entering or exiting the block... that's my thinking anyway.
If the 1/2 inch of stand-off clearance the block gives will keep the halyard from chafing inside the mast, then by all means do it!
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
I know that my jib should be first priority but I have no lines i would feel safe climbing. So i have to replace others so i can climb and get a good look at the jib halyard
I’m curious why you don’t drop the mast and do all your wish list repairs on the ground. I appreciate that it costs $ to do that but it would let you take all the time you need to assure yourself that all is in order.
 
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Jan 30, 2017
74
Hunter legend 37 na
Honestly it's the cost.
If Its not a necessity, to take it down, I'd rather use that expense on another part of the boat.