H260 Single line reefing

Kermit

.
Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Here you go Kermit, this looks a lot like the way yours may have been set up. I came across this while looking for reefing line sizes per sq m of sail.
https://www.harken.com/uploadedfiles/Product_Support/PDF/4171.pdf
Dang dude. Thanks for this! I just printed it and will study it carefully. As y’all’ve probably figured out I’m not an expert at what my boat has or can do or how to make it do those things. I just sail happily along doing the few things I know how to do.
 
Last edited:
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
There are two issues with the 260 on the Harken. First, the horns or hooks are in the way plus it would be nice to put that strip of aluminum so the sail slides will not come out . Second running the line on deck you already have a lot of hardware there on the Hunter 260. I conferred with many and Olaf Harken was one of many.
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
Dave, have you or and other formuites upgraded to a 3 sheave deck organiser on the H260, do you think there would be any problems doing so?
 

Kermit

.
Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
AA8CFC1B-6194-42CE-ACEA-C39A74300DB7.jpeg
Dave, have you or and other formuites upgraded to a 3 sheave deck organiser on the H260, do you think there would be any problems doing so?
Zoom in on this picture. I have a 2-story double-sheave organizer. There’s no more room on the embedded plate for a third set of sheaves.
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
View attachment 163350
Zoom in on this picture. I have a 2-story double-sheave organizer. There’s no more room on the embedded plate for a third set of sheaves.
Cheers for the info Kermit. The embedded plate was also my worry. Do you know if it is just a single on top of another or is it actually a double because I've never seen one. It does look quite a neat affair and not to much of a toe stubber.
 
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Kermit

.
Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
...Do you know if it is just a single on top of another or is it actually a double...
Ahem. You really think I know that much about my boat? I *think* it’s a true double but I honestly don’t know. To show you how much I know, I honestly thought it was a triple sheave double decker... Until I found the picture. Seriously, I’m not much of an expert on anything boat-related. My greatest boating achievement is always returning to the same slip with all crew alive and well.
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
Ahem. You really think I know that much about my boat? I *think* it’s a true double but I honestly don’t know. To show you how much I know, I honestly thought it was a triple sheave double decker... Until I found the picture. Seriously, I’m not much of an expert on anything boat-related. My greatest boating achievement is always returning to the same slip with all crew alive and well.
Well you must be commended for being brutally honest about yourself even though I'm sure with some degree of tongue in cheek.
After all you did seem technically knowledgeable about the issue in #64 :thumbup:
 
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Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
I am crazy as I thought I posted here yesterday driving me nuts. Ok fellas, say nothing.
That appears to be another two sheave deck organizer on top of another but with longer screws. I cannot remember if I installed it or the owner. Should be a Schaefer but if not a Harken
 

Kermit

.
Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
...After all you did seem technically knowledgeable about the issue in #64...
...After browsing the pictures on my phone to see if I could see what I have. And honestly, I had no idea the embedded plate was so obviously visible. But thanks for the compliment!
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
I am crazy as I thought I posted here yesterday driving me nuts. Ok fellas, say nothing.
That appears to be another two sheave deck organizer on top of another but with longer screws. I cannot remember if I installed it or the owner. Should be a Schaefer but if not a Harken
The easiest way for me is to put the port side organiser on top of the stb side and the buy a new one to replace the one I have robbed. I just can't find one to match the screw spacing of the original, that's when the manufacturer or/and chandler can be bothered to even list the spacing measurement . . . . they don't deserve custom.
Or I may fit a cheek block?
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Although the manual lists deck hardware, it does not give the manufacturer. If memory serves me, the two deck organizer was a Schaeffer marine deck organizer and I believe it is the series 5 with reference to 505-80 as the Harken one is different..

I just posted another response to another of the poster's questions. First knowing the boat too well as I was included with the design and sold a lot of these boats commissioning most of them myself, this gives me an advantage. Secondly, I have arthritis in my hands and typing a long discertation hurts them

GBGraham is an experienced sailor who purchased a Hunter 260. Photos sent to me show that he does have the horn as curved hooks to reef the mainsail (now referred to as sail only) for reefing which requires removal of the sail stop in order to lower the sail so the reef grommet can be attached to one of the hooks. This unfortunately allows a couple of the sail slides to come out. Not good. In addition when raising the sail back up, there are times when the sail caught in the hooks ripping it. Then the starboard cabin deck or coach house has a lot of hardware but the main halyard (now referred to as halyard) goes thru a rope clutch which allows you to raise the main only from the back of the cockpit. With that said, the skipper if sailing solo has to go forward. Although a wheel lock or tiller tamer is advantage to you gving you additional time to reef going forward, at that point, you may or may not be in heavy airs and on this boat, I do not recommend steering control be left unattended for any length of time paticuraly in heavy air. I know the boat.

Mr. Graham has indicated sailing in light to moderate airs but would like to reef if the need comes up from the aft of the cockpit, thus a single line reefing. First I have proposed for the rope clutch to be removed adding a fixed base swivel cam cleat that is elevated up giving him a reference. Choice as to company and cost of course will be one factor. This will allow anyone in the back of the cockpit with a flick of the halyard to lower the sail in order to reef. When finished, you can pull up the sail. Might require a longer halyard but that depends on the length. There is a fixed base cam cleat that rises up and down only but will require the riser plate to effectively be able to raise and lock the halyard back into place which I reffered to earlier but not sure here or in a private message.

Secondly, I use to build an aluminum plate to affix to the mast with screws to keep the sail slides from coming out to lower the sail with and then be able to raise it up again without have to refeed the sail slides. I believe this can be done by anyone making sure the side to the sail slides is beveled and filed smooth.

There have been several diagrams presented and I am aware of the single line reef by Harken. The only issue is that line is led back to the mast and down to the cabin deck or coach roof led out on the stbd. side but that means one possibly going forward and/or more friction. Not sure but did discuss this with Harken years ago before doing single line reefing. The first decision to avoid the sail from ripping when raising, is either to remove the horn or hooks or simply leave it below the boom out of the way. I suggested a one line affixed to an eye (starboard side forward on the boom with one line attached to it, led up to the reef grommet and back down to an affixed turning cheek block WITH A CURVED BASE by Schaeffer on the port side as far forward you can go. The line would run to another c;urved base cheek block on the aft port side and up thru the rear reef grommet and back down to another curved base cheek block and then to a cleat just forward a little of the aft stbd. cheek block making sure the line will pull the sail backwards when lowering it..

I was able to reef while in the back of the cockpit and to raise and lower the sail with the new hardware on the deck which worked fine for me although others will disagree. Before implementing this system years ago, I conferred with others in this industry which was my standard practice.. It will be up to the owner of any boat as to what they want to do regarding single line reefing. With that said, there is nothing more from me to be said
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
I was able to reef while in the back of the cockpit and to raise and lower the sail with the new hardware on the deck which worked fine for me although others will disagree. Before implementing this system years ago, I conferred with others in this industry which was my standard practice.. It will be up to the owner of any boat as to what they want to do regarding single line reefing. With that said, there is nothing more from me to be said
CD thanks for your experienced input. Your quote for reefing at the back of the cockpit is ambitious. As long as I can reef within the cockpit will suffice wonderfully for me.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
It's not necessary to remove any sail slugs from the mast track to reef, as long as the slug/slide above the reef cringle is high enough. You only have to get the bottom of the "slab" down far enough.

A careful sailmaker will ask you for measurements about the feeder slot and install the slugs/slides so you can get the reef grommet very close to the top of the boom. Since slugs and slides are usually spaced anywhere from 20 to 30" apart (+/- a few inches), it's not hard to accommodate a feeder slot and sail stop.

If you have a reef horn, put a "floppy ring" through the reef grommet. That's a ring on each side of the sail, connected by webbing or line. It's much easier to put the ring on the horn than to wrestle the grommet onto the horn.

If you're using a line rather than a hook for the fowrad reef line, do NOT put the line though the grommet, trapping the sail slides . Run it up one side of the sail to a ring or block at the reef, and back down on the SAME side.

See drawing below. (PS, I apologize for the crude drawing, I did it about 15 years ago with primitive software. It's ugly, but it gets my point across.)

View attachment 163246

Here's a drawing to show floppy rings. in Fig. 14. I don't remember where it's from so I can't give proper credit.
Judy
Thanks for this informative posting.
Could you expand on your "If you're using a line rather than a hook for the fowrad reef line, do NOT put the line though the grommet, trapping the sail slides . Run it up one side of the sail to a ring or block at the reef, and back down on the SAME side."comment? Is this H260 specific guidance? I ask because I have recently acquired a boat that has a two line reefing system that the original owner set up. The forward line in my case is attached to the mast, passes through the reef grommet and then to a small block and cleat system on the other side of the mast. I can of course alter the setup but can't visualize the problem created by going through the grommet.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,236
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
While waiting for DrJudy to reply, I think that advice is to reduce friction as the line pulls down through the grommet. If you can reef easily with the line sliding against the lower surface of the grommet with your 2 line system, I don't think I'd bother to change it. But if friction is a problem for you, securing a block or appropriate ring at that grommet and letting the line roll around the sheave would make it easier.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
Thanks
I am sort of assuming it has to do with friction reducing, what I’m having trouble understanding is how the slides get trapped or not. Maybe a seniors moment but can’t visualize.