Mast Ladder - Concept of Design
- Thread starter Brian D
- Start date
Can you please explain why you believe that? I go up & down the round rungs on the tuna tower of a sport fish boat with no problems. I'm usually wearing fishing boots when I do that, but I've done it in other types of boat shoes as well.
I agree that home ladders have flat tops on the round rungs. I find this to be more comfortable to stand on. I don't see how the increased contact area of a flat top means better traction.
Round rungs are easier to slip off of, both forward and backward. Round rung ladders are not made to used as movable work stations. I have seen round rung ladder used in applications where the intent is purely to get from one level to another, without stopping on the ladder. In those applications, the ladders are always fixed and vertical. The round rungs are easier to grasp with hands, even while they do give up foot security.
That's the part that I am not getting. I don't see a difference in traction between a round surface & a flat surface.
Perhaps the flat surface helps you feel where horizontal is, & therefore you don't tend to tilt your feet to an inappropriate angel, but aside from that & the comfort that comes with a larger contact area, I am not seeing the difference in performance.
@Brian D Think out of the BOX [pun intended]
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34457&catid=733
Use this for a width of of each rung say 8-12 inches.
1) Cut a notch in each end for the line diameter used to pass the line into.
2) Run your pre-measured line and pre-knoted [stop knot] line like you would lace a shoe.
3) Basically two stop knots per tread tucked inside the square tube.
4) For extra tread safety put this on tread surface.
https://www.amazon.com/Traction-Abr...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01LY7572N
5) To prevent line "pop out" use a SS though bolt on each end of tread.
6) Spray paint each tread with High Visibility Marker Paint
https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-20-6...525130034&sr=8-4&keywords=orange+marker+paint
Optionally build no more that 4 rungs per height needed.
Then you can link segments together, as needed, using safety harness catches like a mountain climber uses.
This tread design won't...
1) Roll
2) slip
3) break, if you use the right thickness of Square Tubing
4) rope lacing design acts like a bridge "Truss" by a "push-pull"
Jim...
PS: Patent pending
at least on Mark 1 version 1.
PSS: "I'm not an engineer. I have no train to drive", I am and I ain't tooting
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34457&catid=733
Use this for a width of of each rung say 8-12 inches.
1) Cut a notch in each end for the line diameter used to pass the line into.
2) Run your pre-measured line and pre-knoted [stop knot] line like you would lace a shoe.
3) Basically two stop knots per tread tucked inside the square tube.
4) For extra tread safety put this on tread surface.
https://www.amazon.com/Traction-Abr...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01LY7572N
5) To prevent line "pop out" use a SS though bolt on each end of tread.
6) Spray paint each tread with High Visibility Marker Paint
https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-20-6...525130034&sr=8-4&keywords=orange+marker+paint
Optionally build no more that 4 rungs per height needed.
Then you can link segments together, as needed, using safety harness catches like a mountain climber uses.
This tread design won't...
1) Roll
2) slip
3) break, if you use the right thickness of Square Tubing
4) rope lacing design acts like a bridge "Truss" by a "push-pull"
Jim...
PS: Patent pending
at least on Mark 1 version 1.PSS: "I'm not an engineer. I have no train to drive", I am and I ain't tooting
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Building on the idea of the square PVC tube, assuming that it is strong enough, you might consider eye bolts & eye nuts to bolt though the rungs with some fender washers & attach rope between the eyes. The heaviest square PVC that I saw listed on that site was about 1/8" wall. I don't know if it also comes heavier or not. If that is not strong enough, you might be able to stack 2 pieces for added strength.
These are some fast examples of hardware I found, but I would think that you would want to use eye bolts that are welded shut, not just bent & left open.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Wire_eye_bolts_(w__nuts)_Stainless_steel_18-8_1_4-20.aspx
http://www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com/sea...MI8ouVp6Tj2gIVhrrACh0ZWA-EEAQYBCABEgKGBvD_BwE
These are some fast examples of hardware I found, but I would think that you would want to use eye bolts that are welded shut, not just bent & left open.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Wire_eye_bolts_(w__nuts)_Stainless_steel_18-8_1_4-20.aspx
http://www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com/sea...MI8ouVp6Tj2gIVhrrACh0ZWA-EEAQYBCABEgKGBvD_BwE
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If you want to prototype something like you [ @Brian D ] or I suggested, remember its is really the rope that is bearing the weight. The tubing is for footing stability and foot fatigue reduction.
You can get Aluminum Square tubing too.
Note: Any notching for round rope, should never have a "square" termination. Square corners under stress will crack by a "stress riser". Pre-drill a hole then notch to that hole. This is true whether you use round or square tubing.
That similar to the thought of building a group of say 4 rungs, connecting groups by "eye bolts" with climbing clips, or bolting a double tread together for connection.
___
Safety design per OSHA...
Rungs must be between 10 to 14 inch apart.
As far as point source weight [ look ma, no hands and only 1 foot] the shorter the rung, the less it will bend.
Example: Trying bending a 4 foot piece of 1" PVC pipe, then try to bend a 8" piece.
Jim...
PS: They make square tubing Caps, that can be PVC glued like pipe.
You can get Aluminum Square tubing too.
Note: Any notching for round rope, should never have a "square" termination. Square corners under stress will crack by a "stress riser". Pre-drill a hole then notch to that hole. This is true whether you use round or square tubing.
That similar to the thought of building a group of say 4 rungs, connecting groups by "eye bolts" with climbing clips, or bolting a double tread together for connection.
___
Safety design per OSHA...
Rungs must be between 10 to 14 inch apart.
As far as point source weight [ look ma, no hands and only 1 foot
] the shorter the rung, the less it will bend.Example: Trying bending a 4 foot piece of 1" PVC pipe, then try to bend a 8" piece.
Jim...
PS: They make square tubing Caps, that can be PVC glued like pipe.
Brian,
I looked up 'diy pvc rope OR wire ladder' in Google. There are a lot of ideas out there for PVC in general and a few interesting ladder projects. I thought this one best fit with what you're trying to do.
Even Santa Claws is getting on the PVC ladder train.
I hope you continue to develop your idea. I want to see how it works out.
A link for other nifty PVC ideas: https://www.familyhandyman.com/smart-homeowner/diy-home-improvement/pvc-hacks/view-all/
And,
This guy's electric outboard project makes interesting use of PVC farication techniques:
- Will (Dragonfly)
Instead of using the eyebolts that I suggested earlier, Another possibility might be to just use washers with the knots in the rope that go through the square tubing. The washers would spread out the stress over a larger area. I am still envisioning the ropes going straight down & not going through the rungs. I am still not seeing the added strength from having the ropes go through the rungs unless the rung actually breaks.
Jim, that is the "strength" I am talking about. If the rung breaks the person standing on that rung will not "fall". So it is a safety thing.
Looks like you guys are having more fun with this project than I. I have some irrigation issues to work on so keep coming up with ideas. In the meantime I will probably just order a Mast Mate and be done with it. LOL
Looks like you guys are having more fun with this project than I. I have some irrigation issues to work on so keep coming up with ideas. In the meantime I will probably just order a Mast Mate and be done with it. LOL
We have the mast mate steps. (We didn't find them buried in the quarter berth locker until we had been up the mast multiple times without them). They are a big help, and the attachment to the mast with sliders keeps them from moving too much.
I would try to work such an attachment into any design you come up with.
I would try to work such an attachment into any design you come up with.
After looking at some pictures, I think you are correct it is a capt Al's. It was packed in a black plastic garbage bag so it took us a while to find it in the bowels of the boat, and it had no identifying marks on it. LOL
You could add a 'U' shaped molded PVC piece to the middle of each rung as a stabilizer. The stabilizers snap around the mast as you climb up to each one. Then, on the way down, pull the mast clip (stabilizer) back off after passing each rung.
- Will (Dragonfly)
- Will (Dragonfly)
I found another commercial design on YouTube
And this home made one looks too easy for $20
However I would use PVC instead of Duct Tape for the steps.
And this home made one looks too easy for $20
However I would use PVC instead of Duct Tape for the steps.
I own a set of the original Capt Al's ladder. Unlike the photo (a couple of posts above), mine does not have rigid rungs. It goes up the mast like a sail, very stable. Your feet are snug in the loops. I've used it many many times. Great product.
Tying etriers from tubular climbing webbing goes back into the 60s and I doubt there has been a failure during climbing. Normally they were tied from 1" webbing, not 2" webbing, so they would be massively strong in 2" webbing. Failure is a non-concern.
Perhaps the most important tip (other than wearing a safety line) is to store them rolled flat, starting from the top, so that the steps open properly. The steps are folded and the coil is tied in stops to hold it.
I have a 60' Mast Mate and have used it many times over the past 25 years.