Windlass on Oday 35?
- Thread starter rajhnsn
- Start date
It’s manual due to space constants and ease of installation. I’ll try and send pics tomorrow.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,261
A windlass has lots of factors to consider as you modify your boat and decide on the role it will play in your sailing. Pulling up the anchor is only part of it. How it deploys, what size anchor, type and length of chain, rode backing, cleaning the bottom mud off the unit, remote - deck buttons - or wired remote, boat displacement, motor design, etc.
This link is to a couple who sail north of the 48’th parallel. They write extensively on the issues to consider when anchoring.
https://www.morganscloud.com/2011/08/07/boat-windlass-requirements/
Here is their idea of a windlass on their boat.
More than you need on your Oday35.
I am installing a Lewmar V3 this spring. It got strong results in the windlass tests conducted by Practical Sailor. It faired better then many in actually preforming to the spec ratings. If you are pulling up a 35lb anchor and 100 ft chain you need more pull power than if you are pulling in anchor, rode and 20 ft of chain.
SBO sells windlasses. Once you settle on the product give @Dave Groshong a shout. He helped me.
This link is to a couple who sail north of the 48’th parallel. They write extensively on the issues to consider when anchoring.
https://www.morganscloud.com/2011/08/07/boat-windlass-requirements/
Here is their idea of a windlass on their boat.
More than you need on your Oday35.
I am installing a Lewmar V3 this spring. It got strong results in the windlass tests conducted by Practical Sailor. It faired better then many in actually preforming to the spec ratings. If you are pulling up a 35lb anchor and 100 ft chain you need more pull power than if you are pulling in anchor, rode and 20 ft of chain.
SBO sells windlasses. Once you settle on the product give @Dave Groshong a shout. He helped me.
The O’day 34/35 doesn’t have a typical chain locker that is needed for proper chain fall from a windlass. Or space for an electric windlass. (See pics). So I built up an ipe (supposedly one of the hardest woods) base 3” high to allow some chain fall from the windlass. I’ll retrieve my 100’ of 5/16” chain and 150’ of 3/4” nylon rode by hand until the chain is vertical with the weight of the 22kg Delta anchor and the bottom material on it then I’ll use the windlass. This is done with the chain locker open so the chain can be flaked as it’s retrieved. I’m going to cut a small cutout in the rear of the chain locker to allow the chain and anchor to be deployed in an emergency situation using the windlass with its built in brake. With all of this weight already on the bow I decided the boat didn’t need the excess weight of an electric windlass.
I’ve also purchased a chain stopper and chain snubber. The stopper will be installed forward of the chain locker.
I’ll post a pic when this is completed.
I've done some of the homework on the size Windlass that I will need. My anchor is 35 lbs and I have about 150 feet of 3/8 (9mm) chain. I estimate this to weigh about 300 lbs. Various websites indicate a minimum pull strength of 3 times the weight of the tackle therefore a minimum of 900 lbs pull. Most of the electric windlasses that will accept 3/8 chain pull about 1300+ lbs. My chain is probably overkill for my boat but I don't think I should replace the chain to suit a smaller windlass. I think I will be grateful for the extra power when there are conditions of adverse wind and current.
I'd prefer a vertical over a horizontal style. One option I am considering is to cut the anchor locker hatch about a third way aft form the forward end. Rebuild, reinforce, raise and reattach to the opening of the anchor locker in a way that can be removed for maintenance. There would then be enough room for the motor to hang below the deck. There is about 8 inches from the hatch to the bottom of the locker now. The Windlasses I have in mind need about 10 inches from the deck. The houser tube could stay in the same place but be extended to receive the chain. The motor would not extend into the chain locker and interfere with the chain pile. The solenoid could be mounted inside the chain locker out of the weather. Circuit breaker would be back at the circuit board under the companionway. Power would come from 400 amp house bank. Anchor wash down already exists. Pump for wash down is installed under port side bulkhead settee utilizing abandoned head raw water through hull.
This is just an idea at this point. Any alternative ideas are welcome. Thanks.
I'd prefer a vertical over a horizontal style. One option I am considering is to cut the anchor locker hatch about a third way aft form the forward end. Rebuild, reinforce, raise and reattach to the opening of the anchor locker in a way that can be removed for maintenance. There would then be enough room for the motor to hang below the deck. There is about 8 inches from the hatch to the bottom of the locker now. The Windlasses I have in mind need about 10 inches from the deck. The houser tube could stay in the same place but be extended to receive the chain. The motor would not extend into the chain locker and interfere with the chain pile. The solenoid could be mounted inside the chain locker out of the weather. Circuit breaker would be back at the circuit board under the companionway. Power would come from 400 amp house bank. Anchor wash down already exists. Pump for wash down is installed under port side bulkhead settee utilizing abandoned head raw water through hull.
This is just an idea at this point. Any alternative ideas are welcome. Thanks.
Would like to see a drawing if you have one yet.
I would like to add a vertical winch on the deck behind the hatch without too much, if any, cutting of the anchor hatch lid and remove the rode from the capstan after raising the anchor. The motor could be covered by a cabnet built around it below and possibly the anchor locker could be deepened by lowerig the bottom of it to slope down over the foot of the v berth and into the forpeak storage area.
On the bay I have always had a rope rode with a short length of chain.
I would like to add a vertical winch on the deck behind the hatch without too much, if any, cutting of the anchor hatch lid and remove the rode from the capstan after raising the anchor. The motor could be covered by a cabnet built around it below and possibly the anchor locker could be deepened by lowerig the bottom of it to slope down over the foot of the v berth and into the forpeak storage area.
On the bay I have always had a rope rode with a short length of chain.
3/8 chain weighs about 1.5 pounds per foot. But you’re not going to be picking up that all at one time. You’d have to have water 150 feet deep
I guess you’re not planning on using your v-berth as a vertical windlass takes us a lot of space. A small horizontal windlass is the way I would go with it’s built-in above deck motor.
As to making your chain locker smaller, I barely have room to get my chain and rope rode in now.
Good luck on both of your projects and keep us posed with pics. We’re spending the weekend on the boat so I’ll see how my new windlass works.
I guess you’re not planning on using your v-berth as a vertical windlass takes us a lot of space. A small horizontal windlass is the way I would go with it’s built-in above deck motor.
As to making your chain locker smaller, I barely have room to get my chain and rope rode in now.
Good luck on both of your projects and keep us posed with pics. We’re spending the weekend on the boat so I’ll see how my new windlass works.
You're both right in that I need to get something on paper. I need to get the cover off so I can get some measurements first. This last nor'easter didn't help and potential of another on the way. Florida is sounding better all the time. Sounds like Windchime2 has the right idea.
Larry,
My concern with putting it aft of the anchor locker is that the chain would have too much length to slap the deck and abrade the gelcoat on the deck. Also not sure how the chain tube would work in the v-berth.
Winchime2,
Thanks for the weight factor for the chain. I'm thinking of raising the forward third of the anchor locker hatch about 2 1/2 inches. The upper locker looks to be about 8 inches deep. The horizontal winches that I've seen need about 8 inches from the bottom of the deck. I was not considering making the chain locker smaller. I agree that that could be a problem with the chain pilling up into the motor, causing a jam, if the motor were hung into the chain locker.
Not sure what you mean about 150 feet of water? I figure with a 7 to 1 scope, I can anchor in about 21 feet of water with 150 feet of chain. I was thinking of adding line so I could increase the depth of water I can anchor in. There should be enough room to add another 100 feet of line in the chain locker. This should give me about 35 feet of possible depth to anchor in in adverse conditions.
Thanks for your ideas so far. I'll keep you posted and start working on some drawings once I can get the cover off.
Larry,
My concern with putting it aft of the anchor locker is that the chain would have too much length to slap the deck and abrade the gelcoat on the deck. Also not sure how the chain tube would work in the v-berth.
Winchime2,
Thanks for the weight factor for the chain. I'm thinking of raising the forward third of the anchor locker hatch about 2 1/2 inches. The upper locker looks to be about 8 inches deep. The horizontal winches that I've seen need about 8 inches from the bottom of the deck. I was not considering making the chain locker smaller. I agree that that could be a problem with the chain pilling up into the motor, causing a jam, if the motor were hung into the chain locker.
Not sure what you mean about 150 feet of water? I figure with a 7 to 1 scope, I can anchor in about 21 feet of water with 150 feet of chain. I was thinking of adding line so I could increase the depth of water I can anchor in. There should be enough room to add another 100 feet of line in the chain locker. This should give me about 35 feet of possible depth to anchor in in adverse conditions.
Thanks for your ideas so far. I'll keep you posted and start working on some drawings once I can get the cover off.
I was thinking of keep the hatch cover up in use then taking the rode off the capstan while underway with cover closed to protect the deck.
Look forward to seeing your plans.
Windchime, your boat looks brand new. Did you refinish the decks? Neat winch installation too.
Look forward to seeing your plans.
Windchime, your boat looks brand new. Did you refinish the decks? Neat winch installation too.
This isn't what you want to read, but I will share it anyway; I have taught anchoring (ASA 103/104/106) on several boats with electric windlasses, and am very glad that my O'day 35 (and one of the Hunter 33s that I teach on) does not have one.
Every time that a student uses the windlass, I'm afraid of them losing a finger. Once, when I had to drop the anchor in a hurry (we had just dropped the mooring painter when the engine died), the windlass breaker tripped, and I couldn't drop anchor until after I reset the breaker. I couldn't get from the bow to the electrical panel in time, and we got to raft up and have coffee with some nice folks that had the mooring to leeward of us. Installing one would require cutting holes in the deck, losing space in the V-berth, adding a significant bit of weight to the bow of the boat, and long runs of large diameter cables.
When I have a lot of rode out and a strong wind, I run the 5/8" nylon anchor rode (200' of it) to a winch on the mast, and use it to haul us up to the anchor chain. I only have 30' of 5/16" HT chain and a Rocna 15 (33lbs), which I then haul up by hand without the aid or complication of a windlass.
If I were to install a windlass, I would install a manual one.
Every time that a student uses the windlass, I'm afraid of them losing a finger. Once, when I had to drop the anchor in a hurry (we had just dropped the mooring painter when the engine died), the windlass breaker tripped, and I couldn't drop anchor until after I reset the breaker. I couldn't get from the bow to the electrical panel in time, and we got to raft up and have coffee with some nice folks that had the mooring to leeward of us. Installing one would require cutting holes in the deck, losing space in the V-berth, adding a significant bit of weight to the bow of the boat, and long runs of large diameter cables.
When I have a lot of rode out and a strong wind, I run the 5/8" nylon anchor rode (200' of it) to a winch on the mast, and use it to haul us up to the anchor chain. I only have 30' of 5/16" HT chain and a Rocna 15 (33lbs), which I then haul up by hand without the aid or complication of a windlass.
If I were to install a windlass, I would install a manual one.
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Wet blanket! 
Although your points are well taken and I thank you for your input.
On the bay I prefer an all rope rode with 10 to 15 feet of chain.
We anchor most of the time and that last 10 feet of chain and 36 lb plow anchor is rough on my old back. Not sure if the shoulder can take all the rachet work of a manual.
But will consider your experience before pulling the trigger.
Although your points are well taken and I thank you for your input.
On the bay I prefer an all rope rode with 10 to 15 feet of chain.
We anchor most of the time and that last 10 feet of chain and 36 lb plow anchor is rough on my old back. Not sure if the shoulder can take all the rachet work of a manual.
But will consider your experience before pulling the trigger.
Thanks, and I didn't mean to rain on your parade.
One thing that I forgot to mention, and this is why I was always worried about a student losing a finger; the chain would inevitably jam when hauling up the rode. The student would have to clear the jam by hand. And this was on a boat that was designed for a vertical capstan windlass!
Best of luck to you whatever you decide!
One thing that I forgot to mention, and this is why I was always worried about a student losing a finger; the chain would inevitably jam when hauling up the rode. The student would have to clear the jam by hand. And this was on a boat that was designed for a vertical capstan windlass!
Best of luck to you whatever you decide!
If you check the minimum fall height on windlass(plural) you’ll find that most require 14”-18” fall. This varies with the amount and type of chain but on a larger Bertram we had, designed for a windlass this was always a problem as the chain stacked up and jammed.
Raj
You’ll only be picking up the total weight of your chain when it’s hanging straight down; hence 150’ deep.
Larry
The decks are original from 1984. The entire boat is in great shape as it was well cared for by it’s former owners, we were fortunate to find her.
Raj
You’ll only be picking up the total weight of your chain when it’s hanging straight down; hence 150’ deep.
Larry
The decks are original from 1984. The entire boat is in great shape as it was well cared for by it’s former owners, we were fortunate to find her.
. +1. The guy in the slip next to me in a Catalina 320 with electric windlass was out single handing last year. Dropped anchor for lunch and proceeded to lose a finger pulling up anchor. He sailed back to the slip then went for medical help. Be careful out there.
Yes. I cut the hole through the deck so that it came out flush with the vertical wall of the locker. The anchor drop aperture was used as template for cutting the hole. It was not necessary to cut into the fiberglass lip that the hatch fits into.
I would always leave the hatch open when lowering and retrieving the anchor so I could keep an eye on the rode and prevent the chain from scratching the top of the hatch. Once the anchor was aboard on the roller davit, I would back down on the windlass, lift the slackened chain to the side, and close the hatch, then tighten the rode.
Anchor Hauler (the cheap easy version) O'Day 322
Keep in mind I'm in crystal clear water that's usually less than 15ft deep. I've had three boats with electric windlass and never used them. One of my friends here on an Island Packet lost his wife at Great Stirrup Cay when she hit the down button on the windlass and somehow, got chain wrapped around her leg. She went under the pulpit and that was it.
When I got this boat she had over 200ft of chain in the bow plus three anchors. All that weight stored 4ft above the waterline sure made her slam coming off a wave. It's also great for the hobby-horse effect. For a windlass to "sort of" work it needs to drop the chain straight down. That's impossible with a small deck level storage area.
I reduced to 35ft of chain and 100ft of 5/8 rode. I normally use a 35lb Delta. I copied an idea off a Norsea 27 I once owned (GREAT boat). I mounted a winch low on the mast, it makes short work of bringing in the rode and the chain I haul by hand.
Keep in mind I'm in crystal clear water that's usually less than 15ft deep. I've had three boats with electric windlass and never used them. One of my friends here on an Island Packet lost his wife at Great Stirrup Cay when she hit the down button on the windlass and somehow, got chain wrapped around her leg. She went under the pulpit and that was it.
When I got this boat she had over 200ft of chain in the bow plus three anchors. All that weight stored 4ft above the waterline sure made her slam coming off a wave. It's also great for the hobby-horse effect. For a windlass to "sort of" work it needs to drop the chain straight down. That's impossible with a small deck level storage area.
I reduced to 35ft of chain and 100ft of 5/8 rode. I normally use a 35lb Delta. I copied an idea off a Norsea 27 I once owned (GREAT boat). I mounted a winch low on the mast, it makes short work of bringing in the rode and the chain I haul by hand.
