Doug, I pulled the boat at around 4-5pm that day, so it had stopped actively leaking after bailing and cranking on the valve seal some more and stabilized for that roughly 8 hour period after the water was removed. I doubt my club is super happy with me either for leaving a 26' boat in our small-ish parking lot but I can't leave the lot with the mast up and I was leaving for Paris the next day, so no way was it just sitting at the dock for more than a week without being sure it wasn't taking on more water.Thanks for getting back to us and not keeping us in suspense. Sounds like good news. My guess is something was going on with the ballast tank valve. So, are you saying the boat is still in the water and was never pulled out on the trailer?
Hunter 260 - Big Problems - Water Ballast?
- Thread starter Tyler Rippel
- Start date
Live and learn! Sounds like there isn't anything wrong with the boat. You'll need to get the teak sole insert dried out. That would be my concern. Since it was underwater can it easily be removed to let dry out then glued back down? Also, of course be sure the cushions are all dry or you'll get mold. You should also inspect the rubber seal on the ballast valve.
It looks like the cabin sole was already replaced as the caulk job is not stellar. Any suggestions on how to remove the sole without damaging it? Any other options for drying out this area? Will it hurt to wait another 3 weeks when the boat is pulled for the season?
Spoke to Tyler just now and he is going to iinvestigate for me on several items. My suspicion will be the hull to deck joint seam on the transom or the knot or depth finder placed on the transom. I will keep you posted. I know the location of the lake where he is at as I placed boats there years ago. As always I do not give out information as to name, place or phone number and that is reciprocal with me.
Another development: I believe the main ballast valve/inlet in the bottom of the hull is supposed to have a rubber gasket on top to seal. However, mine is twisted up, folded over, and feels as hard and brittle as an orbital sander pad/disc.
What material should I purchase and how do I properly replace the gasket? Thanks!
What material should I purchase and how do I properly replace the gasket? Thanks!
Not succeeding in posting photos at the moment.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vnwwngf18slduaz/20171005_160430.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vnwwngf18slduaz/20171005_160430.jpg?dl=0
Reply "Mushi Mushi, Agangkidisca. If telemarkerter, increase your voice saying it again. then say Mushi once very forceful and loud. They generally hang up. Works very well. It is Japanese for saying Hello, how are you doing! Funny thing, Japanese is one language no one seems to learn. Otherwise, do what we did, get rid of the land line which we did and no more darn telemarketers.
As for going thru a check out line and they are wanting your phone number I generally say no but if they insist, I say for example in my area 540-555-1212 and the bumble heads do not get it. For you see it is the old style phone number request instead of 411 for information. Works like a charm and for the old timers who recognize that one, I generally get some good comments.
As for going thru a check out line and they are wanting your phone number I generally say no but if they insist, I say for example in my area 540-555-1212 and the bumble heads do not get it. For you see it is the old style phone number request instead of 411 for information. Works like a charm and for the old timers who recognize that one, I generally get some good comments.
This could explain my taking on water, coupled with a loose/old boat plug currently in use for the air relief valve of the ballast, correct?
You do not know yet what the issue is. Do the investigation like we discussed to eliminate the major issues which I think it is going to be the transom hull to deck joint that may be deteriorated or could come from anything hanging in the water on the transom at or near the water line.
BINGO!!!Another development: I believe the main ballast valve/inlet in the bottom of the hull is supposed to have a rubber gasket on top to seal. However, mine is twisted up, folded over, and feels as hard and brittle as an orbital sander pad/disc.
What material should I purchase and how do I properly replace the gasket? Thanks!
Ballast tank valve rubber seal gets my vote. I betcha a buck that's the problem. When I troubleshoot anything I try to fix what I see is wrong/broke, then take it from there. After you install a new rubber seal and perhaps a new plug, it will be very likely you fixed the problem.
Always happy to hear that it was a simple thing, easy to fix when it comes to water ingress!
Always happy to hear that it was a simple thing, easy to fix when it comes to water ingress!
https://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=260&c=13&p=54932What material should I purchase and how do I properly replace the gasket? Thanks!
https://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=260&c=13&p=55118
Dave, does the hull to deck joint leak typically affect the 260, or is it also a 26 problem?
Thanks, I did see those parts. I was hoping I could purchase another material locally for the seal so I could splash the boat this Saturday if at all possible, I just wasn't sure exactly what to look for.
Something like this would work I bet.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0969040
You might try 3M 90 spray adhesive.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0969040
You might try 3M 90 spray adhesive.
How does one go about the replacement? Does the large handle/wing nut in the bottom step in the cabin come completely off and the whole rod come down through the hull, or do I need to cut the gasket, or does the large flat bottom piece come off the rod somehow to allow for the attachment of the gasket?