What $100 can do to your trailer....

Justin_NSA · Mar 1, 2017

Kermit said:
I replaced that God-forsaken roller and boat-destroying stem with this. It works well but maybe I don't need it at all. Great tip on lines from the goal posts to the trailer.

I put the same roller on my Mac26S trailer. When the water (reservoir) was shallow the angle was hazardous to the bow.

Kermit · Mar 1, 2017

rgranger said:
Hey @Kermit
I've had those on other trailers I have owned. Do they really work? All of my experience with trailer sailboats is that I back up far enough to float the boat off of the trailer... likewise when I dock, I am deep enough that the bow enters the stop and then I drive the boat out and it sets down on the roller..... in your case it is not sitting on the roller so.... does your boat ever actually touch the roller?

Just asking.... not trying to be critical.

The roller works in that it stops the boat. Honestly, I'm questioning if it should even be there. I'd hate to crash my bow into the trailer, though. But if it's not necessary it could actually be making loading more difficult than it has to be. I just always figured it had to be there.

Kermit · Mar 1, 2017

I'm going in April. We're waiting for the weather to warm up. It's only gonna be 88 here today.

Kermit · Mar 1, 2017

I'm ok with what I have. Our club has a great ramp but it could be interesting to try a launch and retrieval with the roller removed. I've never watched what happens during launch. I'm always driving the vehicle.

dscribner · Mar 1, 2017

Rewiring? I bought a 16 gauge extension cord and ran it down both legs of the frame. There's a ground and two wires in each leg and they are well protected. Plus, if they are wire directly to the harness, there are no worries of rust bolts and bad connections getting between you and a good time on the water.

jwilcoxon78 · Mar 2, 2017

Some of the rubber to cover the frame might be the best approach. I'm also going to cut two lengths of rope, loop on end of each and attached a carabineer on the other end of each. Then, I can loop it around each guide post and the rudder post to keep the boat centered as it is pulled out of the water. I think this will be easier and be less harmful that the keel guide that I've seen built on some trailers.

BudGates · Mar 2, 2017

Kermit said:
I replaced that God-forsaken roller and boat-destroying stem with this. It works well but maybe I don't need it at all. Great tip on lines from the goal posts to the trailer.

I have a similar roller for my Mac and when the trailer is in the water the boat does rest against the roller. What happens is the boat sits level in the water while the trailer angles down with the ramp. Since the roller is the highest point on the trailer the boat will rest against it. As the trailer is pulled out of the water the boat rocks back onto the bunks using the roller as a fulcrum. As the boat rocks back to the point where the bunks are supporting it the bow raises off of the roller and away from the bow stop. During this transition period the boat moves slightly forward and places a tremendous force on the roller. I wouldn't even consider loading the boat without the roller there.

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 2, 2017

I originally sold both boats that Rgranger and Kermit own. Launching and retrieving at different ramps can be an experience. Across the cove where Rgranger takes his boat out is dicy as it is steep and there is an over head power line. The reason for the longer guide ons is due to the fact they were getting caught under the rub rail which can be damaging the boat if not careful as that is a steep ramp. The mast had to be down due to overhead lines. As for Kermit, the ramp where I first was involved with him, it was silted up, sideways and a hole. In addition there was an issue with the centerboard which was corrected. Each ramp is different so that always regardless needs to be taken into consideration. Of course it did not help feeling well when helping Rgranger which several weeks later, I had a stent put in.

As for both trailers, what is on the forward horizontal brace on the trailer is what I was suggesting vs.what jwilcox78 has on his trailer which I use to remove that crap immediately. I am not sure if I gave Kermit that idea or not.
As for lights on the guide ons, not a fan of that for a number of reasons but the thought is excellent. The guides are not stout enough for my recommendation

Rgranger, maybe you could come here for lunch when Kermit is here

dscribner · Mar 2, 2017

Keep in mind that the trailer will most likely be inclined down below the rudder anyway. The bow will sit grudgingly on the rollers up front. The stern will float straight back and the trailer will sit down the ramp. When you tie on, and pull the trailer, the boat settles into place. But it most likely isn't sitting on the keel or stern rollers at all until the transmission's complaining loudly.

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 3, 2017

One other important message. If any ramp is not level, suggest trying to float the boat on the high side of the trailer as then the boat will settle down into the middle. Just experience here folks.

Once at Kerr Lake, a 26 new owner was trying to load the boat onto the trailer. Lake was flooding so the boat was being loaded onto the trailer basically in the parking lot which was not level. I watched several times until the new owner became very frustrated. I came over and made that suggestion and of course the owner was confused but followed advice. He pulled it out with the boat sitting level on the trailer. As I watched the previous owner trying to tell the new owner how to lower the mast with it hot and everyone tired, I offered my help and all went smoothly. The new owner asked who I was and he was surprised as he knew who I was. He asked and I agreed in the hot weather to demonstrate on video for him to lower and raise the mast, tie down, etc. Once done I left and he got my home address somehow and sent a $100 check thanking. I returned the check saying I was glad to help him.