Fuel line maintenance

[Justin_NSA]

Justin i really don,t think i want to put that stuff (draino crystals) in my oven where i cook my pizza....... it may have dire effects on my toilet habits

LOL! They say to do it on a stovetop. It's silica gel. not Drano

Q: Can I use a gas oven to dry out my H2Out dehumidifier?
A:Yes. The best way to dry your H2Out with natural gas is to use the stovetop and a heavy pan. Natural Gas produces too much moisture as it burns to dry out your unit, propane is the same. Put stove burner to "low", place the H2Out inside the pan and place a lid upon the pan slightly askew to let out steam. After a few minutes, remove the lid and let any accumulated moisture dry off of the pan surface. Replace the lid and repeat this process until no more moisture is present.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

if you have a square tank i would not recommend blowing back with any amount of pressure over 3 psi as you could rupture your tank

I would go for 0 PSI maximum in any tank on a boat. Just from memory off the top of my head , I would say my fuel tank is roughly 24" X 36" on the top. This is a surface area of 864 square inches. 864 square inches with 3 pounds force acting on each square inch is a total of 2,592 pounds force. Goodbye tank .

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

the promotion of microbial growth."

I'd go with Biobor for prevention of microbial growth.

http://www.biobor.com/products/biobor-jf-fuel-additives/

So far so good after 17 years of some pretty questionable fuel sources up north. I also check for water every year or so by pulling a fuel sample from the bottom of the tank.

 

[jssailem]

I'd go with Biobor for prevention of microbial growth.

I started last winter using Biobor JF last winter. I also learned that the PO failed to maintain the Orings on the fuel inlet cap - so likely water has entered the fuel system. So far not sure how the product is working. Will be testing soon. Did learn that the BioborJF is more a maintenance product than a corrective product in severe cases. I figure I can test this and report back. Practical Sailor recommended your tank with the BioborJF for 6 months then using Starbrite Bio Diesel or ValvTect BioGuard the next 6 months as the critters react differently to the products. Afraid that I may be growing super bugs that will exit the tank one day and eat the Marina. Maybe there is a fictional story in there.

Install a Vacuum gauge on your Fuel Filter.

I had this filter.

And replaced it with this.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Afraid that I may be growing super bugs that will exit the tank one day and eat the Marina. Maybe there is a fictional story in there.

Could be a sequel to that old D grade sci-fi movie "Attack of the The Killer Tomatoes"

If there is a lot of grunge in your tanks, the biocides will kill them off and they'll stop holding hands. May then start plugging filters. Damned if you do and .......................

 

[thinwater]

Dang!
About a year ago, I was discussing (with a buddy) making and marketing one of these "desiccators". The crystals are just Granular DrainO ( anhydrous Sodium Hydroxide with a PH indicator "color" change). You can rejuvenate the crystals (PM me if interested in how).
Jim...

No! Silica Gel.

Don't DARE try NaOH, as it will dissolve in the moisture like CaCl2, drip into your tank, and go through the fuel system.

Learn chemistry before you go into business--you might hurt someone.

 

[FastOlson]

How does the cleanout port allow you to get around the baffles in the tank?
All U Get

We have a 2 clean out ports on the tank top, one on each side of the baffle divider.

Loren

 

[JamesG161]

Learn chemistry (DONE) before you go into business ( I will check with you)--you might hurt someone (never on purpose).

We thought of that and said NO, not worth the liability. NaOH is laboratory use only.

I was discussing (with a chemical engineering buddy) making and marketing

Pit falls were noted at the time.

It's silica gel.

Sorry about side tracking with DrainO.
Jim...

 

[NYSail]

So I bought and installed a vacuum gauge.
Reads completely good with no restrictions. I assume the gauge will pick up any restrictions on pickup in tank as well..... Only describes filter condition in specs of product.

 

[jssailem]

NYSail
Vacuum gauge reads suck power. So starting at the pump to the gauge if you plug the line beyond the gauge the pump will suck a vacuum and the gauge will respond with a HIGH vacuum reading. The blockage will be some place between the gauge and your source of liquid.

That's why we stick the gauge on the engine side of the filter. The filter being a likely spot for the crap to plug. Looking at the filter and it's clean you need to work your way back towards the tank. The pickup tube may be plugged but so may one of your fuel lines.

If the pump is on and there is no reading on the gauge then you have an air leak. Note if your pump is sucking fuel the gauge will read something. Then you get to search for hissing sound or air bubbles in the fuel system.

 

[JamesG161]

So I bought and installed a vacuum gauge.

Great!

Now here is how can tell restriction changes from the tank side of the NEW filter cartridge...
1) Run you engine under normal load ( mine is 1800-2000 rpm) ( no electric fuel pump)
2) Record the precise pressure on the gauge (base line)
3) Check for reduction in pressure (higher vacuum) (you will see zero when engine down) per Jssailem.
My Gauge in post pict #6 show the inside scale of 0 to -30 (inches Hg vacuum) so the pointer moves counter clockwise toward the red (or fouled area) The higher the vacuum the slower the fuel flow from tank side.

In a 30-40 engine hours, check your gauge at conditions in step 1). Record again.
Unless your tank is really crappy, I suspect no change. Rinse and repeat over longer engine times.

Tip: A slow very gradual change, it is the cartridge doing its job. Major sudden increase in Vacuum reading, Fuel line problem. Engine sputtering at near zero pressure, as per Jssailem, air leak.

I keep 6 spare cartridges on board for bad fuel at a transient fuel dock.
When you do change the cartridge observe what is on the face of the filter? Algae is normally very fine black "dirt".

Jim...

PS: I manage my fuel in my tank. Source fuel had algaecide at correct level and I know how to all but eliminate H2O in my tank, without the vent desiccator. So my filter is just a back up.

 

[Charles Erwin]

NYSail

As you know your lift pump is drawing/pulling fuel from the tank. However, every lift pump has a different vacuum draw capacity. As a result - the green, red, yellow zones on a standard diesel fuel vacuum gauge are not reliable enough.

So here is a better way to 'baseline' your vacuum gauge/pump combination.

Start with clean lines and new filter. Run the motor at cruise RPM and close the tank feed stopcock while watching the vacuum gauge as it rises. Eventually the lift pump can no longer move fuel and the motor will stumble and begin to halt - open the stop valve to restore fuel supply but note the vacuum value.

The number on your vacuum gauge at the stumble point tells you the maximum vacuum your pump can manage before starving fuel delivery. This is your "motor will stop" vacuum value. Remember this value - write it down or mark it with a sharpie on the gauge face.

From now on - change the filter/clear the fuel lines anytime the vacuum value approaches 75% of your 'motor stop' value - 50% would be better.

Obviously, monitoring fuel system vacuum requires you to look at the gauge under cruise conditions. A drag needle will record the maximum for any given run. But beware -- drag needle friction can retard movement of the vacuum needle itself - so verify that the drag needle does not retard vacuum needle movement.

Charles

 

[JamesG161]

Makes notes...
Jim...

 

[capta]

Our 30 year old tank is filthy. Not quite filthy enough to spent a huge chunk of money on tearing apart the boat and replacing it, though. We change our filters much more often than suggested as it only makes sense.
However, in my first year on the boat the engine died twice because of a fuel problem. First time I changed the filter and got her going again, but the second time nothing did the trick. Changed from copper to rubber fuel lines and even that didn't help. It turns out that there was a build up of crud in the intake tube of the Racor 500 and it required a total dismantling of the filter to find and rectify the problem. Just a heads up.

 

[NYSail]

Yea my filters are always void of crud, the bowl of the racon 500 never has water and limited sediment. I'm going to pull the feed tube next weekend just to look, learn and inspect but I think the tank is pretty clean. My regiment is basic. I keep minimal fuel in the tank, fill up for cruises, keep minimal fuel in tank during winter and add no bio stuff. I do use "deisel Kleenex". Just try to keep only fuel in tank and make sure I use it. Lucky I guess.....

 

[Ron20324]

I have a Racor 120 to install, and it has an in and out on each side for connection convenience. After following this thread, I think I'll put a gauge on the unused out fitting. That the best place?

 

[JamesG161]

unused out fitting. That the best place?

Yes if OUT goes to engine.
Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

I keep minimal fuel in the tank, fill up for cruises, keep minimal fuel in tank during winter and add no bio stuff.

I do just the opposite, but my winter temperatures seldom go below 40°F.
My fuel supplier has algaecide in the Diesel and I top off my tank at end of cruise.
I am not saying this is right for you, but it is right for me to avoid the "feared condensation".

Some marinas restrict maximum level during COLD winter. Mine doesn't.
Jim...

 

[NYSail]

They restrict because they don't want fuel expansion and then overflows in the spring.

 

[capta]

I do just the opposite, but my winter temperatures seldom go below 40°F.
My fuel supplier has algaecide in the Diesel and I top off my tank at end of cruise.
I am not saying this is right for you, but it is right for me to avoid the "feared condensation".
Jim...

For over 50 years I thought as you do, but think about this for a minute. If we could get free water from a void in a tank, nobody on earth would ever need to worry about drinking water again. You can find an empty tank that's been lying around a junk yard for years and unless rain water has gotten in, it is not going to have any of your "feared condensation" water inside. I'm not saying don't fill it if it pleases you, but you really do not have to fear condensation as a tank contaminant.