1990 Hunter 23 (wing keel) Restoration
- Thread starter Reefing
- Start date
Hi friends, this is a quick update on the keel project. It has been hard to find a place to raise the boat on stands so that i can work under the keel so i have been working little bits at a time and as much as i am able to fit underneath with my 6' 295lbs wide back frame. Also the new baby was born last week so time to work on the boat is now down to 4-6hrs per week. In any case i am happy that the pictures now show a project boat and not an abandoned fiberglass carcass.
On the point of finding a marina that will allow me to work on the boat, i was able to find one but they are charging me 10/ft to pick up and lower back the boat and 50/day. Do anybody know or have an opinion as to the rates. I am planning to do the job in 2 days but budgeting 3 just in case. The project will include the antirust paint for the keel as well as antifouling paint to cover the mess the previous owner did.
On the point of finding a marina that will allow me to work on the boat, i was able to find one but they are charging me 10/ft to pick up and lower back the boat and 50/day. Do anybody know or have an opinion as to the rates. I am planning to do the job in 2 days but budgeting 3 just in case. The project will include the antirust paint for the keel as well as antifouling paint to cover the mess the previous owner did.
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When I did mine I just left the bottom areas untreated. The lake we are on has no marinas that have strap hoists so I had no real choice. It is up to you if the $350 or so is worth it. My view is that no real damage is occurring and the drag from some rust and flaking on that smallish area is not a big deal.
If they do hoist it and put it on jack stands, I am not sure how you even support the keel when off the trailer so that you can access the very bottom. I suppose a narrow (wood block) support only as wide as the keel proper may let you get under the wings, but it may have to be too tall to be safe. Or maybe cross pieces near the front and rear of the keel. I am not sure you could lift the boat safely without the keel itself being supported to handle the hull weight.
Crazy Dave always also reminds people to ensure the hoist straps can't slide apart, and that any jack stands are chained so they can't slide apart.
If they do hoist it and put it on jack stands, I am not sure how you even support the keel when off the trailer so that you can access the very bottom. I suppose a narrow (wood block) support only as wide as the keel proper may let you get under the wings, but it may have to be too tall to be safe. Or maybe cross pieces near the front and rear of the keel. I am not sure you could lift the boat safely without the keel itself being supported to handle the hull weight.
Crazy Dave always also reminds people to ensure the hoist straps can't slide apart, and that any jack stands are chained so they can't slide apart.
That price seems about right for this area. $50/day = ~$2/ft/day. I think thats about what I paid in Tarpon Springs. Usually when a boat is put on stands, they will put wood blocks under the keel to support it, and chain the stands together so they don't slip.
Grind, prime/epoxy, and bottom paint shouldn't take more than 3 full days, IF you have everything pulled together before you start. It always seems like its an hour minimal trip to West Marine.
Gather as much information on grinding prepping and painting the keel, so you can work efficiently. Many here have work on theirs.
Let me know if you need anything.
Grind, prime/epoxy, and bottom paint shouldn't take more than 3 full days, IF you have everything pulled together before you start. It always seems like its an hour minimal trip to West Marine.
Gather as much information on grinding prepping and painting the keel, so you can work efficiently. Many here have work on theirs.
Let me know if you need anything.
Thank you! I guess i have no choice but to inch my way on the keel while I am ready to paint.
Thank you for the advice isaksp00 but unfortunately or fortunately i am in the Clearwater, Fl area and will be sailing in salt water. Inarathree, thank you again for your advice. When i am ready to paint i will let you know if you want to see the project. I e meantime i have taken the teak out to work it at home.
Thank you for the advice isaksp00 but unfortunately or fortunately i am in the Clearwater, Fl area and will be sailing in salt water. Inarathree, thank you again for your advice. When i am ready to paint i will let you know if you want to see the project. I e meantime i have taken the teak out to work it at home.
This morning I was inspecting the Jib, which to my consequent surprise, both the main and the jib are in good condition. Attached is a picture of the current jib hanks. I tested them all and all appear to be working fine. I did have to persuade 2 with a set of pliers but all work fine, or good enough until i start on the deck work. Since i am not looking to replace them now, is there a way to clean the copper without taking them off the sail and lubricate the locking pin? I am concerned that if i open the hanks, because of age, they will break off and I am assuming that wd40 if it get on the sail it will damage it. I am thinking a silicone grease like the one used for electrical connections might do the trick with out staining the sail or damaging it.
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Reefing;
contact me via forum on your 23 with phone number and you are in Florida. I will be glad to call and help. Also, you will find a lot of good folks here who will want to help you. I do not share any information with anyone and not even the wife. I help as I feel God was good to me and I just want to help others . I was a former dealer for Hunter Marine
Also, there are no dumb questions as I beat you to the punch on that one and boy did I ever pull some stunts like catching that 20 lb. stripper with my car.
contact me via forum on your 23 with phone number and you are in Florida. I will be glad to call and help. Also, you will find a lot of good folks here who will want to help you. I do not share any information with anyone and not even the wife. I help as I feel God was good to me and I just want to help others . I was a former dealer for Hunter Marine
Also, there are no dumb questions as I beat you to the punch on that one and boy did I ever pull some stunts like catching that 20 lb. stripper with my car.
I may have a couple used ones around the shop. I will PM you tonite if I find them. I can drop them off this week. I know that when I picked up my H22, my hanks looked like yours - all patina'd - but I don't remember what i did to clean them up and service them.
I have 5 of these. Your welcome to them. They are a little over an inch and 1/2. PM me if you want them.
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Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I think I have a common goal with a Hunter 23.
I just picked up a 1987 Hunter 23 from St Petersburg and have it moored now at Longboat Key, FL.
No trailer and I am trying to figure out the best way to deal with bottom growth. I am not yet permanently living down there and I am trying to find a yard to get an assessment of the cost of bottom cleaning and probably painting for what appears to be a prolific region for bottom growth.
Any recommendations in the Sarasota area?
BTW: I will be taking out the pulpit and getting it rewelded on the front. It appears that the previous owner did not do something right and the front weld is broken.
Has anybody been replacing the rub strips and the support behind them? I am presently trying to plan "remotely" on maintenance and restoration.
I just picked up a 1987 Hunter 23 from St Petersburg and have it moored now at Longboat Key, FL.
No trailer and I am trying to figure out the best way to deal with bottom growth. I am not yet permanently living down there and I am trying to find a yard to get an assessment of the cost of bottom cleaning and probably painting for what appears to be a prolific region for bottom growth.
Any recommendations in the Sarasota area?
BTW: I will be taking out the pulpit and getting it rewelded on the front. It appears that the previous owner did not do something right and the front weld is broken.
Has anybody been replacing the rub strips and the support behind them? I am presently trying to plan "remotely" on maintenance and restoration.
Tdboss, no highjacking here, you are welcome to join. I am guessing that due to the neighborhood, you might be getting some expensive quotes to do the job. I can tell you that the same yard who is willing to let me work on the boat quoted me ~$1k to clean, prep and paint (including paint) the bottom. The yard is in Gandy (write me a pm to give you the contact info) about half way into Tampa Bay. I am new in the area but so far all the prizes that i got on different jobs were fairly comparable. As you may know, the ability to protect from growth is regulated by multiple factors, to include temperature, salinity, use ..., so the paint you use will be the key to the protection. From the homework that i have done so far, the best protection suggestion will be provided by a local individuals/yards/stores/etc. good luck.
Ok friends, i have completed the grinding on the keel, at least the areas that were accessible, the bottom will have to wait until i am able to paint the bottom of the boat. I was able to complete the cleaning on the outside and fix 2 fiberglas gashes it had. I am vey exited that i am down to replacing the main and jib lines ( making sure they do not break on the maiden voyage) and add the LED anchor light as well as the navigation lights.
On this matter of the mast i have a question. The top of the mast has 2 rollers ( for a lack of better terms) one is to raise the main (which is the closest to e mast but the second i am not sure what it is for. I am guessing it is to fly flags but i will appreciate if anybody know what it is for.
Next on the list is compounding and waxing the white gelcoat and finish the mast so that i can put it back on and sail it for the first time. Attached are some pictures of the progress. Please look at them and let me know if there is anything that does not look right.
Have a great week!
On this matter of the mast i have a question. The top of the mast has 2 rollers ( for a lack of better terms) one is to raise the main (which is the closest to e mast but the second i am not sure what it is for. I am guessing it is to fly flags but i will appreciate if anybody know what it is for.
Next on the list is compounding and waxing the white gelcoat and finish the mast so that i can put it back on and sail it for the first time. Attached are some pictures of the progress. Please look at them and let me know if there is anything that does not look right.
Have a great week!
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By top of mast do you mean the very top - that is, the mast crane? If so, my H23 has no rollers (sheaves) on the crane. It has fittings for the top ends of the aft stay (the one further aft) and another to attach the upper end of the topping lift.
Mine has a sheave in the mast for the main halyard (on the aft side, obviously), and a fitting on the front where the upper stays attach, that has one sheave for the jib halyard and another above the stay attachment for (I assume) an optional spinnaker halyard. But these are not at the "top" of the mast.
If these are blocks that have been attached external to the mast, it may be an owner modification.
A photo would help.
Mine has a sheave in the mast for the main halyard (on the aft side, obviously), and a fitting on the front where the upper stays attach, that has one sheave for the jib halyard and another above the stay attachment for (I assume) an optional spinnaker halyard. But these are not at the "top" of the mast.
If these are blocks that have been attached external to the mast, it may be an owner modification.
A photo would help.
Hmm, I am not sure if mine has the sheave that the braided line is going through or not - I honestly can't recall if that is the main halyard, or if the main halyard has a separate sheave lower in the mast. If there is no other sheave on the aft side of the mast, that must be the main halyard.
The wire that is in the aftmost hole (the top hole in your 2nd photo) is or should be the backstay. Mine has a split backstay, I don't know if all years did. That wire stay goes down and attaches using a celvis pin to a pair of triangular SS plates, to une corner. The two legs of the split backstay attach to the remaining two corners and then to chainplates at either side of the transom.
The clevis pin in the middle is used to attach the topping lift, which on mine is a wire rope that went down to a shackle at the end of the boom. I modified mine by shortening the wire rope and adding a small block at the lower end, and a small nylon rope from the boom end up to the swivel block then through a sheave at the end of the boom and forward through the boom to one of the three jam cleats in the boom.
The wire that is in the aftmost hole (the top hole in your 2nd photo) is or should be the backstay. Mine has a split backstay, I don't know if all years did. That wire stay goes down and attaches using a celvis pin to a pair of triangular SS plates, to une corner. The two legs of the split backstay attach to the remaining two corners and then to chainplates at either side of the transom.
The clevis pin in the middle is used to attach the topping lift, which on mine is a wire rope that went down to a shackle at the end of the boom. I modified mine by shortening the wire rope and adding a small block at the lower end, and a small nylon rope from the boom end up to the swivel block then through a sheave at the end of the boom and forward through the boom to one of the three jam cleats in the boom.
Ok now i am more confused. I was under the impression that the braided line on the last picture was the main halyard as there is nothing else on the aft end of the mast for moving lines. Yes, the 1990 has standing rigging splitting at about the boom line into each side of the transom. Now, if that braided line is for the topping lift, where is the mast halyard? I checked the aft end of the boom and did not see any attachment points for the topping lift.
Here are some pictures of the mast. Does anybody has pictures of this boat with the mast raised?
Also, the square shape block on the bottom of the mast; what is that for?
Here are some pictures of the mast. Does anybody has pictures of this boat with the mast raised?
Also, the square shape block on the bottom of the mast; what is that for?
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Reefing sent me a private email regarding attachment of the boom to the mast. I have asked for photos of the boom ends to see what lines are there.
In the middle of the photos above is the area of boom attachment to the mast. First to the right you will see a flat plate for attachment of a winch if you desire. Simply drill and tap but make sure the drill is for the right tap. It is pot metal which is easier to work with.
The forks are for reefing attachment of the mainsail that hooks into a hole on the luff or front edge of the mainsail with a metal gromment. When attaching, the forks must be in the upward position. There is a clevis pin just above the forks which is used for the attachment of the boom with the levers on the bottom of the boom should be facing down or toward the deck.
On the boom, there should be three lines but if not,see if there are three rollers or turning sheaves at the end of the boom along with three handles pointing downward as mentioned above paragraph.
Look forward from the back of the boom just a little ways and see if there is an eyestrap poop riveted into the boom which I cannot recall which side. The line on the far opposite side coming out of the boom acts as a reefing line which goes thru a metal grommet up on the back side of the sail and thru down to the other side attached to the eyestrap which is used as the aft reefing line. The forward hooks or one of them goes thru another grommet same height up but make sure when raising the sail that the hook does not catch the sail.
I believe the middle line was the one used to pull the mainsail back in the track attached to a grommet on the back side of the foot of the sail. The third line was used
for a topping lift originally designed as one line that was secured to the top of the masthead on a clevis pin without the second roller. That line was sent packaged with a loop. That line came down thru the third sheave to the handle forward on the boom.
Ok gents you can jump on me for forgetting some terminology but at least you understand with old age creeping up on me.
Over the years the lines in the boom may have been modified. I use to cut the topping lift adding a hook with a closure so I could remove that boom a lot easier than running a messenger line thru the boom itself every bloomin time. In addition, I tied a big knot on the other end where the line exited at the forward portion of the boom in the event that if it came loose, the boom would not fall all the way down damaging the boat or hurting someone. I have asked Reefing to take a couple of photos of the two ends of the boom and post them.
Reefing, please send the photos as well to my email so I can respond. At that point should you have any questions, feel free to call me. I think I supplied my phone but if not, I will send it to you.
In the middle of the photos above is the area of boom attachment to the mast. First to the right you will see a flat plate for attachment of a winch if you desire. Simply drill and tap but make sure the drill is for the right tap. It is pot metal which is easier to work with.
The forks are for reefing attachment of the mainsail that hooks into a hole on the luff or front edge of the mainsail with a metal gromment. When attaching, the forks must be in the upward position. There is a clevis pin just above the forks which is used for the attachment of the boom with the levers on the bottom of the boom should be facing down or toward the deck.
On the boom, there should be three lines but if not,see if there are three rollers or turning sheaves at the end of the boom along with three handles pointing downward as mentioned above paragraph.
Look forward from the back of the boom just a little ways and see if there is an eyestrap poop riveted into the boom which I cannot recall which side. The line on the far opposite side coming out of the boom acts as a reefing line which goes thru a metal grommet up on the back side of the sail and thru down to the other side attached to the eyestrap which is used as the aft reefing line. The forward hooks or one of them goes thru another grommet same height up but make sure when raising the sail that the hook does not catch the sail.
I believe the middle line was the one used to pull the mainsail back in the track attached to a grommet on the back side of the foot of the sail. The third line was used
for a topping lift originally designed as one line that was secured to the top of the masthead on a clevis pin without the second roller. That line was sent packaged with a loop. That line came down thru the third sheave to the handle forward on the boom.
Ok gents you can jump on me for forgetting some terminology but at least you understand with old age creeping up on me.
Over the years the lines in the boom may have been modified. I use to cut the topping lift adding a hook with a closure so I could remove that boom a lot easier than running a messenger line thru the boom itself every bloomin time. In addition, I tied a big knot on the other end where the line exited at the forward portion of the boom in the event that if it came loose, the boom would not fall all the way down damaging the boat or hurting someone. I have asked Reefing to take a couple of photos of the two ends of the boom and post them.
Reefing, please send the photos as well to my email so I can respond. At that point should you have any questions, feel free to call me. I think I supplied my phone but if not, I will send it to you.
I looked at mine yesterday - the braided nylon line is the main halyard.
The middle clevis pin is for the topping lift, but the topping lift line is not shown in your photo. Depending on what type of topping lift you have (it may be wire, it may be thin diameter rope) the top is attached using that middle clevis pin. Mine happens to be wire rope (prob about 1/16) clamped around a thimble, and the pin goes through the thimble.
Summary:
The aftmost fitting on the crane is the backstay (it almost looks like a rod in your photo).
The middle fitting (pin) is where you will attach your topping lift.
The braided nylon line going through the sheave is the main halyard.
The middle clevis pin is for the topping lift, but the topping lift line is not shown in your photo. Depending on what type of topping lift you have (it may be wire, it may be thin diameter rope) the top is attached using that middle clevis pin. Mine happens to be wire rope (prob about 1/16) clamped around a thimble, and the pin goes through the thimble.
Summary:
The aftmost fitting on the crane is the backstay (it almost looks like a rod in your photo).
The middle fitting (pin) is where you will attach your topping lift.
The braided nylon line going through the sheave is the main halyard.