The keel is done except for paint, check pages 3 & 4 of this thread, test install on page 6. Let me know if you have any questions.
Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580
- Thread starter CloudDiver
- Start date
So close I can taste it... No really, I can taste it and its nasty!
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Finally done!
Not fun, but I basically knocked it out in a week. MVP on this job was my dust control system, without it I would have had a huge mess on my hands and probably worked slower. Also, flipping the boat over was critical, I dread ever having to this on my back. Belt sander with 50 git and 80 grit belts, my orbital was only for finishing.
Now on to fairing and final preps for a new barrier coat!
Not fun, but I basically knocked it out in a week. MVP on this job was my dust control system, without it I would have had a huge mess on my hands and probably worked slower. Also, flipping the boat over was critical, I dread ever having to this on my back. Belt sander with 50 git and 80 grit belts, my orbital was only for finishing.
Now on to fairing and final preps for a new barrier coat!
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Way to git 'er done, Luke. Do you have a cyclone upstream of your vacuum? I don't recall you saying. I need to make one for mine. Tired of cleaning my filters several times per sanding job.
Yes, this is one of the better pictures where you can see them clearly. They are mostly very small, no bigger in diameter than a dime. I believe these blisters are very, very old. The last bottom job on this boat seems to have been done very well with only a few hiccup spots where the bottom paint didn't stick well. For the most part, that bottom paint was VERY thick and dang if wasn't holding on tenaciously!
Yes, check out post 87 on page 5 of this thread. The 'Dust Deputy' is perfect a Stingy Sailor write up for most bang for your buck in tools. I got mine on Amazon for about $40. With this bottom paint sanding it has been the MVP of my shop tools!
Last night I finished sanding the bottom paint out of the Keel Pocket and tunnel. Since I had to do it completely by hand it was a very special kind of hell, worthy of its own ring in Dante's 'Inferno'. The paint was THICK and just didn't want to give it up! I have the blisters to prove it.
My last challenge is deep in the keel pocket where my fingers can barely reach. When the keel was down and the boat sat in the water neglected for so long the upper part had rusted and expanded so badly the keel was initially stuck in place. When the crane lowered the boat on the trailer we used the full weight of the hull to force the keel to fold up.
Most of that junk I was able to scrape and chisel out, big chunks of rust mixed with marine growth and paint. Now what is left is hard to see in this pic, best I can get on my iPhone. So there is basically an outline of the keel head in a rusty crust that is firmly pressed into the gel coat. It can be scraped off, its just that all the way down there I can't get to it with any fair leverage. At this point this is all that is stopping me from starting the new barrier coat. I'm thinking Naval Jelly to loosen it up?
My last challenge is deep in the keel pocket where my fingers can barely reach. When the keel was down and the boat sat in the water neglected for so long the upper part had rusted and expanded so badly the keel was initially stuck in place. When the crane lowered the boat on the trailer we used the full weight of the hull to force the keel to fold up.
Most of that junk I was able to scrape and chisel out, big chunks of rust mixed with marine growth and paint. Now what is left is hard to see in this pic, best I can get on my iPhone. So there is basically an outline of the keel head in a rusty crust that is firmly pressed into the gel coat. It can be scraped off, its just that all the way down there I can't get to it with any fair leverage. At this point this is all that is stopping me from starting the new barrier coat. I'm thinking Naval Jelly to loosen it up?
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A drywall pole sander comes to mind because I have one. It will accept various grits of sandpaper sheets and should reach most of it. It'll be tough getting pressure against the surface but you could try wedging it in the trunk with a rag-wrapped block or something on the backside so you don't have to rely totally on your arms.
WEll, my forearms and knuckles are torn up pretty bad, but I finally won the battle against the rust crust in the keel pocket!
I ended up using two tools I had in the shop that helped. I found an 80 grit flap wheel drum the goes on my straight body pneumatic die grinder. Also, I had some small 36 and 60 grit discs for the right angle die grinder. They have a stiff backing and a little plastic screw on nub which is just enough to hold between my fingers. I was able to get down in there and knock off the crust and then smooth it out with the flap wheel.
I ended up using two tools I had in the shop that helped. I found an 80 grit flap wheel drum the goes on my straight body pneumatic die grinder. Also, I had some small 36 and 60 grit discs for the right angle die grinder. They have a stiff backing and a little plastic screw on nub which is just enough to hold between my fingers. I was able to get down in there and knock off the crust and then smooth it out with the flap wheel.
So now I am wondering if I will be painting at all this weekend. Several things going on;
- I am concerned about the drying time for the blisters. For a good part of the boat I've had the bottom paint off for several days, but maybe I should let it dry another week... I do not have a moisture meter.
- My shop is a total disaster. I think I need to stop and clean up or I am going to end up tripping on something and spilling really expensive paint.
- Looking at the Interlux tech guide it seems to indicate that for a 22 foot boat you need 2 gallons of Interprotect 2000E to get four coats. I also have to consider that I'm also doing the same four coats on the keel and rudder too, so I may need to go ahead and buy another kit.
- You can go 6 months between coats of Interprotect without sanding, but for the bottom paint you must apply that within 7 hours of the final primer coat. So I'm pretty certain I am looking at getting the Micron CF now and putting it on before I flip the boat back upright.
So it looks like I might need to do another Paint Order from SBO. I could easily go ahead and get the first coat on, but I also need the brushing thinner... So I might just wait until next weekend.
- I am concerned about the drying time for the blisters. For a good part of the boat I've had the bottom paint off for several days, but maybe I should let it dry another week... I do not have a moisture meter.
- My shop is a total disaster. I think I need to stop and clean up or I am going to end up tripping on something and spilling really expensive paint.
- Looking at the Interlux tech guide it seems to indicate that for a 22 foot boat you need 2 gallons of Interprotect 2000E to get four coats. I also have to consider that I'm also doing the same four coats on the keel and rudder too, so I may need to go ahead and buy another kit.
- You can go 6 months between coats of Interprotect without sanding, but for the bottom paint you must apply that within 7 hours of the final primer coat. So I'm pretty certain I am looking at getting the Micron CF now and putting it on before I flip the boat back upright.
So it looks like I might need to do another Paint Order from SBO. I could easily go ahead and get the first coat on, but I also need the brushing thinner... So I might just wait until next weekend.
No hurry take your time, you did all this work to just rush it could be a mess. When I first painted my classic Porsche I rushed thru it only to have to take it to a pro and bite the bullet but wow is it great now. I could have taken more time to refurbish my keel but I do plan to redo the bottom in the fall or next spring "no shop here " all done under a car port and the temps get down to freezing some days in our winter so I must wait till the weather is on my side. When I redo the bottom I will pull the keel back off so may have to touch up or maybe do it all over again. I decided to do my keel now because I did not know the condition of the pin and the keel was very blistered. Any way I say do whats in your heart and it looks to me like you want to wait phew.
I forgot the reason I came on here was to ask if you put the keel spacers on yet and if so pictures? Thank you
I would imagine if the blisters were ground out properly at the time of repair, they should be plenty dry by now...
I def think you should take some time and clean/re-organize your shop. its kind of like showering when you are sick, you just feel better afterwards...
I def think you should take some time and clean/re-organize your shop. its kind of like showering when you are sick, you just feel better afterwards...
Luke,
I can vouch for the 2 gals for four coats. Mine took one gal. for 2 coats less the keel and rudder. Out of curiosity, why four coats? Two makes a good barrier and base for your bottom paint.
I can vouch for the 2 gals for four coats. Mine took one gal. for 2 coats less the keel and rudder. Out of curiosity, why four coats? Two makes a good barrier and base for your bottom paint.
I was reading the Interlux tech sheet for Interprotect 2000E, they recommend 4 coats for barrier coating. On the coverage chart it says 2 gallons for a 21 ft sail or power boat. I figure, if I've come this far I shouldn't cheap out and just do 2 coats. I really don't want have to have to repeat this process any time soon. I'm going to call Inerlux tech support tomorrow and ask about coverage, number of coats, and drying time for the blisters. I foresee just waiting until next weekend to start painting and thats not the worst thing.