Whale fin Rudder Modification

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Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
I found some interesting ideas in the design of rudders form the other Mac forum. Specifically the whale fin rudder. I'm impressed!
(Thanks SteveK! link; http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=21832 ) and http://ptsail.org/2011/10/11/whale-fins-and-rudder-designs/
The bumps (tubercles) on the front slow/stop cavitation of the rudder when you turn or change the angle of attack of the rudder. (Cavitation= the air bubble that forms around the rudder. It creates more drag and the rudder stalls earlier.) Why? The humpback whales know.

I have decided to do this modification to the stock rudder for my MacGregor 26D. If I Like it I may redo the other rudder as well. (The one I modified last year has continued to rot and fall apart. Don't make a rudder out of oak wrapped in fiberglass.) If these are to my liking I will make a dagger board with the tubercles.

I have decided to make a fiberglass mold of the modification so I can make a few copies.
Materials so far: 3/4" open cell white Styrofoam (2- 3x36" pieces), spray glue, 100 grit sandpaper, 2" pvc pipe for sanding.
I cut the foam in 3" pieces and then cut a 45% angle along one of the 3' x 3/4" edges of each so when I glue them together they will form a V that will sit on the leading edge of the stock rudder.
Here are some photos of how I'm making this mold.
 

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Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
Some more photos;
At this point (Last photo. I am going to fill in any voids with plasticine cover the foam.
I'm planning to cover the whole foam piece with plasticine and then wax it then mold release. I will extend the foam or mold about 6" from the front of the bumps. (so it can be extended forward if needed.)
 

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walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,550
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
Finding, you’re a good guy to try this since you have been racing your boat already and know how it did against other fast boats before you do the mod.

I’ve seen forum posts on this idea for maybe 15 years now and this idea hasn’t really shown up on racing boats but who knows The paper above cited an actual lift to drag advantage for whatever Reynolds number they were using - but as far as I can tell, this was ONLY a computer simulation, not actual real test data.

The whale that uses that fin needs to be very maneuverable for how it captures its prey Very maneuverable - fins that can generate lots of lift quickly. That implies to me that it needs to operate at a high angle of attack without stalling. Makes me wonder if the main benefit of the tubercles is an increased stall angle.

If your rudder is stalling all the time (results in a roundup), well, the tubercles would probably be a good idea although there are other ways to solve that such as just a good quality foil shape and sail balance.

I wonder if anyone has actually measured (not a computer model) an increase L/D with that type of foil? You also have to be careful of what Reynolds number (which I barely understand) they did the measurement at as it would need to be reasonably close to what Reynolds numbers sailboat foils operate at. The computer model is certainly interesting but if it actually did have those benefits, I think it would have shown up in the racing sailboats 10 to 15 years ago as the idea has been around for at least that long.
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,550
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
http://perryboat.sail2live.com/yacht_design_according_to_perry/2011/10/rudders-lets-start-here.html

A note from this link was interesting:

http://www.tda-ri.com/applications/sailboatrudders.html
As expected, in “straight line” sailing there was no measureable difference. This alone was important; to assure that the BLEF rudder does NOT result in increased drag at small AoA. However in tacking and gybing the helmsman’s comment was “she tacks very nicely, quicker and smoother than usual”. Unfortunately, there was insufficient time remaining to get the BLEF-modified rudder measured and accepted for use in the Louis Vuitton Series, so BMW-Oracle Racing had no choice but to use their original CLEF rudder. As an ironic postscript, after spending many millions of dollars to design, fabricate, assemble, test, and sail two IACC racing yachts, during their initial elimination series against the Italian Luna Rosa team, the BMW-Oracle boat stalled not once but twice during pre-start maneuvers, badly losing the start both times, and going on to be eliminated from the America’s Cup competition.
Got me wondering about one thing regarding dagger board Macs.. A few years ago a guy who was racing a 26M would note that in very light wind, he would lose some ground to other sailboats during tacking – he would slide sideways, they would not. Foil lift (needed by the dagger to get around in a tack) is proportional to velocity square so at very low velocity, you can need higher angle of attack to generate lift since velocity is so low. The high aspect dagger foil is great for L/D.. except that it probably stalls at a lower angle of attack than a keel boats lower aspect foil – and why he had the trouble in very light wind rounding. Maybe a tubercle high aspect dagger would be a good solution here? Note that with the swing centerboard on the 26S, we can also solve this problem by raking the centerboard back and essentially turning it into a low aspect foil. But the centerboard boats are just not as fast in the first place.
 
Nov 19, 2011
1,489
MacGregor 26S Hampton, VA
If nothing else, it looks cool. So what will you do now? Just rough up the rudder and wrap fiberglass over the new part to make the new foil? I know adding some leading edge to the rudder has been popular by itself. Looks like a fairly easy thing to do. By all means keep is posted. I need to re-glass my rudder some day and if I have to do that, I might add the leading edge if its not too difficult
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,550
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
From the same link as above, it looks like these guys do mainly think the advantage to this is a resistance to foil stalling without any bad effects L/D - ie, the foil can be operated at a higher angle of attack without stalling.

Also, while the use of BLEF features on keels and daggerboards is unlikely since these items always operate at small AoA where BLEF shows no advantage relative to CLEF, the same is definitely NOT true of rudders. Under nominal “straight-line” sailing the rudder is normally at either zero or small AoA. Here, a BLEF modified rudder would provide no benefit, but would also provide no disadvantage. However, when tacking or gybing, especially in close quarters when racing it is often true that a substantial change in direction is needed rapidly. It is not altogether uncommon, even for world –class helmsmen to stall the rudder during such maneuvers. Consequently, the use of a BLEF-modified rudder may prove beneficial.
I been sailing a 26S for a long time but don’t race it except for the "drag racing" that occurs when any two boats get at all near each other.

I have a now about 6 year old Rudercraft rudder which I believe were CNC milled from a chunk of plastic so are accurate. This is the only rudder I have used on the boat but one of the things I believe people liked about this rudder is that it was less prone to stall compared to the original rudder. I personally have never really thought I had a problem with it stalling - which seems to be the problem that Tubercles solve.

Finding, since you race, do you ever think you have a problem with your rudder stalling? Maybe the problem always occur at very low boat speed and I just don’t know about it because I don’t really ever sail in very light wind (just not something I care to do that much - I’ll start the outboard first).
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
Thanks for the links all.
I was at it again today. my plan of using plasticine went soggy. Here is why. It's too hot. The stuff I got turns into a thin liquid in the heat! Thinner than a milkshake! Really! So I went with filling the gaps with drywall plaster. I always have lots kicking around too.

Materials; drywall mud, dry mix 20 mud, plasticine, wax paper, spray glue.

I sprayed the glue onto the rudder and wrapped a piece of wax paper over the leading edge. Then I mounted the foam I shaped with the plasticine. Checked to see if it was center then dry wall mud.
Today it was too hot and humid for the mud to harden. (That's why I added the 20 dry mix. Gives it kick. Usually.) I don't know if I can get to it tomorrow or not. Next is he fun sanding part! Then re-mud and sand again. Yea. The plaste is going to be the mold making surface so the sanding is critical.

As for stall; Yes it happened at last nights race. Light air and rounded the last mark.... Just drifted sideways and then back a bit. I was concious of not stalling the boat. Took it slow and at a gentle angle... We came 2nd. (Squeaky and I)
Here are some photos of today's progress.
 

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Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
Well there is a lot of water in the air here. It's still wet in areas so I couldn't sand it very much.
I have a fan on it now. It's in my shed a the shop, Ill check back tomorrow and see ware it's at.
I am racing in a regatta this weekend and have an idea for all the plasticine i have.... I may make some bumps on the other modified rudder. I'll have to ask the race organization people if it is ok. It may disqualify me.
Pictures of partly sanded rudder and the old mod one I'm using now.
 

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walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,550
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
FYI, I’m glad you’re trying this and I’m looking forward to what you think after trying it out.

I mentioned Reynolds number (RN) in another link and it’s not something I really understand but what it does is allow you to relate what happens between for example a small scale model foil and the larger full size foil. RN somehow takes into account the size of the object, the speed it travels at and the viscosity and to relate results, the RN numbers should be ballpark.

Why bring this up? I don’t believe I have ever noticed a problem with the rudder craft accurately foiled rudder stalling at any sort of boat speed except for when I have just the main up in very high winds and then I’m a little more prone to roundup from the rudder stalling. But the situation of stall that were discussed here were always in very light wind where the boat speed is very low.

I only slightly know enough about RN number to bring up the concern.. but that is that the bumpy leading edge that works for the whale in the feeding frenzy might be operating at a significantly different Reynolds number than a much smaller sailboat rudder that is operating at probably less than 2 knots. What works at one RN doesn’t always work at a different RN..

Don’t know... but like I said, good experiment and good luck!!!
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
Walt. Thanks for bringing up the RN#. I won't be doing any small scale testing though. It's good to know that there are kind of set measurements out there I can use.
I picked up a bunch (3 rolls=$40) of woven fiberglass over the winter. They all are different weaves and one is fiberglass and Kevlar. So I can make a bunch and experiment for a long time...
I went to the shop today and checked the whale fin I'm making. It was dry! But I noticed I had made a design mistake. I measured for fit into the castle when I drew out and shaped the foam originally but I didn't like how the bottom was looking after shaping it so I added a small piece to transition from the bumps to the bottom.
I mistakenly moved the bumps up to fit this bottom piece in. Because I have a bump right at the top ware the water line is it now was in the way for lowering the rudder into place. (it would have been swept back)
So I had to reshape the top bump to allow the rudder to go all the way down. Oops. More waiting for mud to dry.
Here are the pictures.
 

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Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
I forgot to mention today's racing... (last, last, 2nd last, 2nd last) Still have to work on the starts... That's what is killing us. Sitting there stalled at the start or way back from the start. It seems the smaller boats with the crank down keel are better in very light air. (Mac222, CS22, Tanzer...)
The modified rudder stalls quite easily in light air. It does handle and steer allot easier than the stock one though.
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
I figure there bumps are about 8.5" apart. Just a guess. Mine are...? I'll measure tomorrow.
As for foil shape... I'm going to just go for a smooth transition.
I know sounds like a cop out. It's not. I want to get the front of the rudder profiled first. Then I can cut what ever foil shape I choose from foam and build on from there. I couldn't guess what this one is going to turn out to be at this point. I can say that so far the way I'm building it the bumps are
1 1/2" thickness at the black lines in the 2nd photo. As the plaster is added to the foam and rudder it builds up a bit more and then will slope gently back.
I do know that I will be able to slip it onto the original rudder and fasten it some way for testing.
Does anyone know what foil shape the original 26D/S rudder is? (Not supposed to be please.)
I know it's not a 0012 or 0018.
 

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Aug 7, 2011
496
MacGregor 26S Lakeland, FL
Just thought I'd chime in a little to help explain Reynold's Number from my engineering background. RN is, from our perspective in boats and water, a relative indicator of the turbulence in the water. Low RN's indicate laminar flow. RN's reach a "transition" zone where the liquid movement is beginning to break up from being laminar, all the way up to "not quite fully turbulent". The numbers above that indicate turbulent characteristics and the higher the number, the more turbulent the flow or movement is.
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That said, let's include a little background, then define laminar and turbulent briefly...
Conceptually, water moving over a stationary surface (a rock in a river) exhibits the same characteristics as if you moved the surface thru stationary water (a rudder thru the lake), so everything is discussed in terms of the liquid moving.
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The concept of viscosity is thrown in, as mentioned above, but water is not very viscous, so it doesn't have a lot of impact on what we're doing. Viscosity is defined as the liquid's resistance to shear. If you think of a liquid as being made up of individual particles like marbles or b-b's, but magnetic ones that stick together, then it might help. The stronger the magnetism, the higher the viscosity. So while you might be able to slide your hand thru a bucket full of liquid that has low magnetism between particles, like water which is low viscosity, the higher the magnetism, like syrup or molasses, the harder it will be to move your hand thru...the particles don't like to be separated (shear) to allow your hand to pass between them.
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So now think of a slow moving river of water, low magnetism b-b's, flowing along. All the particles kinda line up and move smoothly next to each other, not really rubbing or moving relative to each other (one is not slowing down and another speeding up and another going sideways). They all just move together...this is laminar flow. Imagine that they flow along this way until they come to your rudder. Now they have to separate (which they don't like to do) and go around the rudder, and then meet back up on the other side.
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Our foil type rudders like the water to stay laminar. As the rudder is turned, it creates an angle of attack, like a wing, which creates lift and pulls the boat that direction. For any given airfoil, there is a point at which the water can't separate, get around the rudder, and join back up on the other side in the nice clean lines it was flowing in, and when this happens it is called separation or we like to call it turbulent flow. When that happens, the rudder loses lift, and the boat stops turning. The energy in the water ends up being wasted as drag instead of lift, and we say the rudder has stalled. It is the same phenomenon as an airplane wing stalling due to the combination of high angle of attack for the speed of the wing.
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So the low wind speed, which results in low boat speed, means you cannot turn the rudder as far before the particles of water get turbulent instead of flowing in a laminar fashion and the rudder stalls. You don't actually stall the rudder any easier, just at a lower angle. The lower speed also means less energy available for lift, thus lower turning speeds, which is not really the fault of the lower angle, just all goes together.
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I hope this has helped a little.
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So the airfoils used for the rudder are a big part of this, some being better at lower speed and some at higher speed, some lose laminar flow (separate) at lower angles of attack, some higher. I would guess that our boat rudders were originally designed, and replacements are too, for optimum performance at hull speed (or close to it) with less concern over low speed performance. Improving low speed performance might require a specialized rudder design that might negatively impact the higher speed performance.
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It will be very interesting to see how this whale fin rudder works out!!
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,550
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
when this happens it is called separation or we like to call it turbulent flow

There is a paper by Tom Speer whom used to be involved with land sailing (how I know about him) and is now the Oracle racing team aero and sail project leader and if you can tolerate technical papers, its interesting to read (the pdf link below). This paper is mostly dealing with wing masts (and is applicable to rotating mast used on the M boats) but it also talks about the different types of flows that we care about.

In the paper, there is attached laminar flow, attached turbulent flow and separated flow. Both attached laminar flow and attached turbulent flow produce lift. Separated flow does not - this is stall. The variables where these flow occurs is influenced by the Reynolds number - why is we care about it here.. For example, most of the flow on our sails (if not stalled) is turbulent attached flow. The tubercles may be nature’s way of inducing turbulent attached flow. Airplane wings will sometimes have "turbulators" that induce the flow to turbulent early as it is less prone to separation (stall). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbulator

Tom Speers web page http://www.tspeer.com/ Oracle Design Team, Aero & Sail Project Leader

The link below is the interesting page I wanted to point out
http://www.tspeer.com/Wingmasts/teardropPaper.pdf

(below is snipped from the above web page)

At some point, the boundary layer can’t maintain this smooth state of affairs, and eddies start to appear. This is known as the transition from laminar (the smooth flow) to turbulent flow. A turbulent boundary layer is much thicker than a laminar flow, because the eddies surface, and throwing them some distance away fromthe surface. They are also bringing some of the higher velocity air from outside down closer to the surface. This higher velocity air gets slowed down, naturally, so this causes the “skin friction” of the turbulent boundary layer to be higher than the laminar boundary layer. But the turbulent boundary layer is not all bad, as you’ll see.

But a laminar boundary layer is much more fragile with respect to flow separation and stall than a turbulent boundary layer. So we want to maintain a fair amountof laminar flow so as to keep skin friction low, but we want the flow to be turbulent as the air slows down heading back to the trailing edge. By using the turbulent boundary layer’s ability to slow down more, we can use higher velocities up front and get more lift. A laminar boundary layer is a little like driving on ice You don’t dare go too fast because you can’t slow down quickly. A turbulent boundary layer is like driving on wet pavement - you’ve got better braking, so you can go faster without breaking loose.
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
Great links Walt and everyone!
I was over to the shop today and added a bit of plaster to fill the little cracks/ gaps from the drying process. (It shrinks as it drys.) I gave it just a bit more on the sides to get a bit more foil shape. (Still no idea what it will be. The stock rudder is sooo not a good foil shape that it's hard to do too much. I don't want to make it too wide either.)
I took some time to sand down my old tiller handle too. It broke during a race last year and I wrapped it with hockey tape (fabric tape) to get through the season. (Hockey is a game played on ice here in Canada.) I glued it a couple months ago with Gorilla glue. I like that stuff for things that get wet. It works great for Ikea furniture et all.
The tiller handle had a few holes in it from PO's so I made some dowels and filled all the holes. I laminated a few small pieces in to fill some gaps too.
Next time I'm over I'll sand the rudder to almost the shape I want and fill the imperfections again. (Getting close to casting...) I'll sand the rest of the rudder and finish with a spar varnish.
Here are some pictures of the tiller handle.
 

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Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
I got to do a bit on the rudder today. Sanded, added tuc-tape covered 1x wood pieces to act as a lip for the mold. I'll fill the ends and small gaps with plasticine.
Finished sanding the tiller handle too. got 3 coats of Sunbar on it. I hope it drys. I went over tonight and did the 3rd and the 2nd wasn't completely dry after 7 hrs with a fan on it...
Next is a couple coats of wax and then PVA. Then fiberglass!
 

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walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,550
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
Hard to tell and I could be completely wrong.. but the leading edge always looks to blunt to me. I wonder if it should be something like a Naca 0012 shape that "modules" the chord lenght??

If your lucky here, you will have the L/D of the Rudder Craft CNC milled foil but more resistance to stall. As I said, I could be completely wrong.. but cant help but to think the blunt leading edge would suffer on the L/D

???? Who knows..

 

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