Your advice on protecting wood on Alden Challenger 38

[StettO]

Hello everyone. I've started refreshing Mary-Lou. A few pieces of wood have absorbed moisture and will be replaced. Regarding the wood in good condition on the roof, it was varnished over the years with several coats without stripping, resulting in variegated tones between dark brown and yellowish-brown. After sanding, the wood is finally reddish-brown, which makes sense if it's teak, as I suspect. But I thought teak couldn't be varnished. Well, I'm sure you have some advice on this. Your Alden Challengers look varnished, don't they? What kind of varnish would you suggest ?
Best Regards
Oliver

 

[dlochner]

Teak can be varnished. Wipe the teak with a solvent to remove surface oils and then varnish.

 

[StettO]

Ok, thanks Dave

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Wipe the teak with a solvent to remove surface oils and then varnish.

The solvent to use is not just solvent but super solvent ie. lacquer thinner. The fumes are enough to curl your armpit hairs but the teak oils removed over and above acetone are quite remarkable.

But I thought teak couldn't be varnished.

Most inebriated dock rats mumble that but not a trace of truth in it.

The only exterior teak I have on my boat is the pushpit seats and a few handles on binnacle table tops. Given that you have the experience, skills and time, I would coat your sanded woodwork with ~ three coats of clear epoxy followed by 3 - 4 coats of marine varnish. Looks like wet varnish for year to come.

Above is a teak grab after three coats of clear epoxy ready for removal of the rough edges and any drips.

If your boat has any amount of external woodwork, finishing it with epoxy would look spectacular IMO and require less work in the long run. Lots of learning to start with.

 

[StettO]

Good advice, thank you all !
Oliver