I can not find a diagram over the wiring. I want to move my radio from VHF to COMMON and ad a deept sounder to NAVIGATION.
Wiring
- Thread starter clausjepsen
- Start date
one may have one available to help you out, but without a diagram you will have to use a test light to see where the power is and where its going when you flip a switch.
then you can start removing and replacing wires one at a time until you find the one that operates the component you are dealing with.
and if you did have a diagram, you cant always trust them to be accurate unless the boat is new.
a previous repair person could make a few modifications and add stuff/components that would still have to be worked out with the above procedure...
your electrical circuits at the panel looks to be in great condition so Im pretty sure there has not been a "hacker" into it and made any changes...
then you can start removing and replacing wires one at a time until you find the one that operates the component you are dealing with.
and if you did have a diagram, you cant always trust them to be accurate unless the boat is new.
a previous repair person could make a few modifications and add stuff/components that would still have to be worked out with the above procedure...
your electrical circuits at the panel looks to be in great condition so Im pretty sure there has not been a "hacker" into it and made any changes...
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The jumper panel looks exactly like our 99 361 but the switch panel does not. I have the jumper diagram for ours and can scan and post for you but not sure it'll match since our breaker panel are different.
I tried to make a clean job of installing AIS, inverter, aux USB chargers, handheld VHF docking station and whatnot but it sure doesn't look as neat as new. Let me know if you're interested in my 99 361 wiring diagram.
I tried to make a clean job of installing AIS, inverter, aux USB chargers, handheld VHF docking station and whatnot but it sure doesn't look as neat as new. Let me know if you're interested in my 99 361 wiring diagram.
I had a heck of a time delaing with that Wago wiring block. There have been several threads about it. The propane wire easily pulled out when I was trying to trace a trouble. I went the more secure route and wired it to the breaker. I also wired my VHF to the breaker for the stereo. To free up two breakers, I used one wire from a breaker to the top of the compression post where I placed three switches for the three mast lights.
If you get an owners manual- or just the wiring diagram- make a copy of it to note the changes you find or make. Save the unchanged original for a file copy.
If you get an owners manual- or just the wiring diagram- make a copy of it to note the changes you find or make. Save the unchanged original for a file copy.
Same here, I needed a jumper to connect some more equipment to the radio switch and found they've changed the jumpers and such so new looks nothing like old. I was nervous about applying too much force but the local dealer said to just push it hard and that certainly did it. I hope I never have to deal with the wiring block again now that all is wired to my satisfaction in there.
If you don't have the diagram your will have to pin it out manually. Those Wago blocks can be a pita if you are not familiar working with them.
Thanks guys. Sorry for the late answer, but been out sailing. Yes Syversens I wold like to have a copy of your diagram, because I then might have a foundation, when I start my surch and find.
BTW I have mounted my Navionic deept sounder in starboard side and took electricity from the pump. I want to run a wire to the panel in stb side, so I can connest it to navigation, but I can not find an easy way to the other side. Could you advise me on a good route.
BTW I have mounted my Navionic deept sounder in starboard side and took electricity from the pump. I want to run a wire to the panel in stb side, so I can connest it to navigation, but I can not find an easy way to the other side. Could you advise me on a good route.
Those Wago blocks can be a pita if you are not familiar working with them.[/QUOTE]
I agree with Maine...but once you understand how they work, you begin to appreciate their simplicity.If you google "WAGO Blocks" you can find some information as to how they work, as well as sources for the hardware such as jumpers etc.
If you can find a manual for your boat, there are listings of the circuit numbers. On the boat itself all of the factory wires are distinctly numbered at each end. It's fairly easy to find out where each wire is terminated.
I agree with Maine...but once you understand how they work, you begin to appreciate their simplicity.If you google "WAGO Blocks" you can find some information as to how they work, as well as sources for the hardware such as jumpers etc.
If you can find a manual for your boat, there are listings of the circuit numbers. On the boat itself all of the factory wires are distinctly numbered at each end. It's fairly easy to find out where each wire is terminated.
we used a similar kind in the elevator trade they were called buchanan strips and were very easy to use..... also expensive...when used properly they were very good for troubleshooting the wiring ...a tad of overkill for boat wiring...on a boat in most cases when the wiring is installed correctly it is usually enjoyed and forgotten
Sorry I've been busy too, now I did find the online manual that I was looking for earlier and if I remember right mine exactly the same. Here is a link to the wiring page but has all sorts of other goodies in it.
Thanks, but this is the ordinary manual and in that they do not show a detailed diagram over the electricity, but I am fine now after messuring all the connections.
I am not sure if there's an easier route but an idea is the "pipe" running from the heads (below the washbasin) to the galley (below the sink). Page 13,14 of the standard brochure. At least with this you will transfer the wire from stb to port side.
Thanks Philip. Just what I needed. Great overview.
I just sailed the boat home from Toulon to Gruissan (160 miles) in cold winter weather with too much wind, mostly 25-34 knots and on this trip I experienced two problems, that I hope some of you have a solution for.
First the build in heater can only run on step one. If I put on full power, then the main switch on my electricity bord for the charger on the 220 volt side disconnects the power. I then tried to shut of the heater and put on a stand alone thing, that can run 900 or 1600 watt. On both levels the switch disconnects after a few minutes.
The second problem was water in the front cabin. Small amounts, maybe two liters, came into the cabin from the port wall. My guess is, that it comes from the hard beating, where the nose of the ship constantly was hammered down under water. Could it be a bad assembly of the deck and the hull? Any ideas on how to fix it?
I just sailed the boat home from Toulon to Gruissan (160 miles) in cold winter weather with too much wind, mostly 25-34 knots and on this trip I experienced two problems, that I hope some of you have a solution for.
First the build in heater can only run on step one. If I put on full power, then the main switch on my electricity bord for the charger on the 220 volt side disconnects the power. I then tried to shut of the heater and put on a stand alone thing, that can run 900 or 1600 watt. On both levels the switch disconnects after a few minutes.
The second problem was water in the front cabin. Small amounts, maybe two liters, came into the cabin from the port wall. My guess is, that it comes from the hard beating, where the nose of the ship constantly was hammered down under water. Could it be a bad assembly of the deck and the hull? Any ideas on how to fix it?
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For the switch issue, that sounds like it's a circuit breaker tripping, but I'm a little confused which one. Is this happening when you're plugged into shore power, or running off an inverter or something? You say that it's the switch for the charger that's tripping? I'd expect there to be one breaker for your battery charger and a separate one for the heater. The fact that the charger one trips is odd to me.
For the water leak - consider checking around your anchor locker. Not sure how they were built in your model year, but ours (2014) had a void between the locker and the outer hull, where the locker drain hole was. This was letting rain water go out the locker and into the bilge. If you were in heavy seas and had the same condition we did the water could have come in from outside and into the bilge through the void.
For the water leak - consider checking around your anchor locker. Not sure how they were built in your model year, but ours (2014) had a void between the locker and the outer hull, where the locker drain hole was. This was letting rain water go out the locker and into the bilge. If you were in heavy seas and had the same condition we did the water could have come in from outside and into the bilge through the void.
Yes it is when I am on shore power. My anker locker is drained through two holes through the hull. Could be there the problem is to be found. Thanks.
First of all remove the piece of wood (in the bow cabin) covering the electric windlass area and check that everything is dry in there. Check also the lewmar hatch if it leaks (quity easy to do so). Water could simply find its way to the port wall.
Another thing to check is the stanchion base (in fact check all stanchion bases of the boat). I don't like the way they are installed. It's quite easy to get bent and wound the fiberglass and soon start leaking. Very difficult to remove them for repairing and an easy solution is to apply a small layer of sikaflex or something around them.
How do you like the boat? Appart from its bad habbit to slam when going the wrong direction (!) I love it. I think it sails quite well even in rough conditions provided you reef it.
Thanks for your input Philip, I will check all the sugested spots.
I really like the boat, because it behaves and sails very well. Now with the new tape drive sails it goes very high to the wind.
I still have to learn to trim the sails properly because else it is impossible to stear when beating. When I had tightened my genoa too much the boat cuts up in the wind without any chance for the rudder to control it.
I really like the boat, because it behaves and sails very well. Now with the new tape drive sails it goes very high to the wind.
I still have to learn to trim the sails properly because else it is impossible to stear when beating. When I had tightened my genoa too much the boat cuts up in the wind without any chance for the rudder to control it.