Winterizing the Jabsco Manual Toilet

[Nichole340]

I have search the forums and found From a July 5, 2005 Posting….. “Converting from Salt to Fresh Water”. Which I believe to be my answer.
I simply cannot remove the Jabsco Manual Toilet Intake Hose from the seacock on my Hunter 340 without violently shaking the hell out of thru hull. I have applied Super Lube to the fitting and hose in the spring, heat from a hair dryer, low setting of a heat gun all with no luck, once this hose is on it doesn’t want to release and there is no room to maneuver in the area to pull on the hose. I have to cut the hose about 1 inch with a razor blade and then I can remove it.
Then I can stick the hose in a jug of antifreeze and pump through the toilet, rim and handle. But as you can imagine, I’m running out of hose using this method.

I feel the “Y Valve configuration” you outline is the way to go for me. I have barely enough room under the 340 vanity to place a small jug of antifreeze, pump refill and repeat over and over.
Anyone have any photos of this setup and recommendations for which Y Valve to buy.
This is the one process I battle with every year and it has to stop. I like the aspect of teeing a piece of hose long enough to reach an accessible location. For me probably 2 feet or so.
I just don’t have the space to tee into the sink drain hose as others have suggested but I can get into the dedicated thru hull for the toilet if the Y valve is compact enough.
Thank you for the help, as you can tell I been searching the archives for this one. And this has to stop this year.

From July 5, 2005 Posting….. Converting from Salt to Fresh Water…..
However, if teeing your head intake into the head sink drain isn't practical, there is a much easier way to flush the sea water out of your existing system than removing the intake hose from the thru-hull: using a 3/4" y-valve (which you can probly get from any hardware store) ...tee a piece of hose long enough to stick into a gallon milk jug into your head intake line in a location that is accessible. Close the seacock, stick the hose into the milk jug, turn the y-valve, flush the toilet. Even if the only place you can tee into is in the bilge, moving a y-valve handle sure beats taking a hose on and off a thru-hull.

 

[Tally Ho]

I think you are mixing 2 different ideas…

Teeing into the sink drain is a way to put fresh water into the head intake (by closing the intake thruhull and running fresh water from the sink faucet into the drain (and then pump the toilet valve). Yes, it could be used to pour AF down the drain and then through the toilet.

What I would do is put a small T with a hose thread on one branch of the T. This is a small T and you should be able to find a p,ace for it as close to the thru hull as possible.

Put a cap on the hose thread to cap it. Then, when is is time to winterize, close the thruhull, put a short piece of hose on the hose fitting and stick the other end in a gallon of pink AF. Once you winterize the toilet, replace the cap and open the thru hull…all done.

It would important to find a robust T fitting and cap if this will be cut in below the water line.

Greg

 

[Dalliance]

I had the same issue winterizing the head. The hose was impossible to pull off the hose barbs, so it kept getting shorter and it wouldn’t reach outside the locker and into the antifreeze jug without adding a coupler and hose extension.

My solution was to install a 3-way valve just above the through hull valve with a dedicated antifreeze hose long enough to reach outside the locker and into my jug of antifreeze. It makes winterizing the head about a three minute job. I then open the through hull valve after haul out to drain water trapped between it and the 3-way valve. The antifreeze hose just stays in place all year coiled up in that locker and I put a rubber stopper in the end of it so residual antifreeze can’t run out into the locker.

I have similar 3-way valve set ups for winterizing the water system and the engine.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I have applied Super Lube to the fitting and hose in the spring, heat from a hair dryer, low setting of a heat gun all with no luck, once this hose is on it doesn’t want to release

I've treated my clean water hoses on the head about the same as your experience. They all went together with SuperLube and I've had no problems getting them apart years later. The hose material is 3/4" Trident VAC XHD Sanitation & Potable water hose with a few pieces of Shields VAC XHD Series 148 hose in hidden locations.

Both of these hoses react the same to heat in that they have to be hot enough that you can't hold on to them (maybe 120-130°) before they are flexible enough to slip on and off. You may not be getting them hot enough. Takes time to get up there with a hair dryer but if you've got cast iron self control, you could use a heat gun. Give me a heat gun and the whole lot of hoses would be a pool of PVC on the floor in no time.

 

[DaveJ]

I winterize my head with a different method. This assumes you are on the hard.
I find the thru hull under the boat, insert a tube (1/2” ?) into the thru hull, it needs to be a tight fit. Other end of tube goes into your antifreeze jug. Start pumping! When the antifreeze has gone through the whole system, close the thru hull.
I do the same with the engine.
Hope this helps.
Cheers