Winterizing Check List

[Maine Sail]

Question - I live 4 hours away from my sailing grounds so charging up the batteries occasionally throughout the winter is not possible if left on board. If they're topped up after winterizing, will they be alright over the winter or (and I probably already know the answer to this) do I need to bring them home for storage and maintenance? Some folks in our yard leave them on board with the boat plugged in charging all winter long but I question that practice. Not sure if the yard "allows" that but it is done by some.

It all depends on the temps. If they are full and disconnected in say November and the temps stay cold you'll still likely be in the low 90% range by April. If the temps are warmer self discharge happens faster. If they are AGM or GEL charge them and forget about it until spring.

If they are flooded, and you can't get there at all, probably best to bring them home. I know some that leave an "umbilical cord" hanging from the boat and have friends who live closer plug it in while they are in the yard working on their boats. They leave the boat set to charge and when the cord is plugged in the charger turns on. Ideally I would prefer a small solar panel and controller, but they can become blocked with snow.

One of my customers who's boat I just winterized does the umbilical cord trick and I will plug her boat in when I am near by for a day or two then disconnect. You need to have a charger that does not act as a "parasitic load" though when not plugged in. Some cheap portable chargers actually "bleed" off your bank while not plugged in.

 

[Rodd]

hi Maine-
hard to believe it's time for winterization already! We did have a great 2 days sailing this weekend around Shelter Island, NY, so at least the season ended on a positive!

your latest thread brings up a quesiton: I generally leave my batteries (flooded) aboard for winter, and leave the Freedom charger and Link 2000 controller on. This year I will be on the hard with access to electric. Can I safely disconnect and remove the Link 2000 and in that case, will the Freedom 10 charge the batteries by itself? I figure it's best the Link isn't subjected to freezing temps.

Thanks!

Rodd Leeds

 

[tailwind]

What precautions do you take to protect the barn stored canvas and cushions from the mice?

 

[Maine Sail]

What precautions do you take to protect the barn stored canvas and cushions from the mice?

Moth balls and d-CON... The second story of the barn is the storage room and has no bug or rodent issues. We actually have more rodent issues in our house...

 

[Maine Sail]

hi Maine-
hard to believe it's time for winterization already! We did have a great 2 days sailing this weekend around Shelter Island, NY, so at least the season ended on a positive!

your latest thread brings up a quesiton: I generally leave my batteries (flooded) aboard for winter, and leave the Freedom charger and Link 2000 controller on. This year I will be on the hard with access to electric. Can I safely disconnect and remove the Link 2000 and in that case, will the Freedom 10 charge the batteries by itself? I figure it's best the Link isn't subjected to freezing temps.

Thanks!

Rodd Leeds

Rodd,

Just pull the fuse for the Link 2000 at the batteries. That will kill power to it. It is best to have little to no loads on the batts, even with a charger "plugged in", as they tend to get unplugged and you don't know it until too late.

Even at home in our own yard the batteries remain disconnected from the vessel and charger. I use the charger as a power supply for the 12V system when working on-board in the winter but the batts remain out of the loop except when I decide to top them up.

 

[captainpat]

MS: I store in-water and can remain connected to dockside electric. I leave the battery leads connected and the battery charger on with all DC panel switches off. I figure that I want the automatic bilge pump active. Any problems with this plan?

 

[Dragon Fly]

THANK YOU berry big ! :>)
this isn't my first year sailing, but my first winter winterizing a sailboat.
all my other experience was in tropical climes.
this list is fabulous for a beginner winterizer ~
dragon fly.

 

[Maine Sail]

MS: I store in-water and can remain connected to dockside electric. I leave the battery leads connected and the battery charger on with all DC panel switches off. I figure that I want the automatic bilge pump active. Any problems with this plan?

As long as you have a good charger this can be fine. I am not however a big fan of long term unattended battery charging. Seen too many charger failures to be 100% comfortable with it. Check it often...

 

[captainpat]

Thanks MS; I am only about an hour away from the marina and check the boat/charger frequently. ALSO, I did replace the Hunter charging solenoid with the Blue Seas automatic voltage sensing relay as you recommended (the one with the start isolation/combine switch). Have not been able to get away from the dock yet for a proper test, however, so far it seems as though my charging problems have been solved.

Thought you'd be interested in the response I got from my inquiry to Marlow-Hunter customer service:

The solenoid is not used for the upgraded alternator, some have it there because it was packaged with the battery switch panel but we disconnect the control wire. The upgrade should be using the 120 amp isolator.

I prefer the Blue Seas solution.

 

[NYSail]

Maine... What about putting vineger in the holding tank verses bleach? Will vineger hurt any plastics/rubber?

Thanks!

 

[RobG]

*Drain fuel tank and burn in homes heating system
So you don't subscribe to the top off tank to prevent condensation theory? PO always did it that way so I have the last three seasons I've owned her. Problem is each season I only use 2-5 gallons. I was going to pump it out this year. No fuel problems so far. Aluminum tank. What's best in your opinion?
Are there any good pumps for 10 gallons that are cheaper than $180? I'd think a hand pump would take forever?
Rob

 

[Vegas]

For the past couple of years I've left my 3 flooded batteries on the boat in Michigan, but top them off with distilled water, charged them up good then disconnect only the negative terminals.....

 

[Maine Sail]

*Drain fuel tank and burn in homes heating system
So you don't subscribe to the top off tank to prevent condensation theory? PO always did it that way so I have the last three seasons I've owned her. Problem is each season I only use 2-5 gallons. I was going to pump it out this year. No fuel problems so far. Aluminum tank. What's best in your opinion?
Are there any good pumps for 10 gallons that are cheaper than $180? I'd think a hand pump would take forever?
Rob

No I don't subscribe to leaving my tank full.... I much prefer to leave it empty so crap can grow and multiply and empty tank is also a dry tank......

 

[Maine Sail]

For the past couple of years I've left my 3 flooded batteries on the boat in Michigan, but top them off with distilled water, charged them up good then disconnect only the negative terminals.....

Been doing that for over 20 years. As long as they are topped up periodically, and disconnected as you do, they will be fine. COLD weather drastically slows the aging/sulfation process. I actually prefer to leave them on the boat rather than in our house, which is warmer...

 

[Sailing Vermont]

Thanks for the check list Maine Sail. Very helpful!

What do you think about pumping Antifreeze through for a transom mounted manual pump? Seems like I've read that somewhere in a list, but can't find it now.

Also, I've ended out with AF in my bilge and engine room from winterizing. I'm thinking I'd like to clean it up thinking less fluid in the cabin is always good. Thoughts?

 

[Solstice]

Maine Sail,
I've always wondered about sealing the air intake and exhaust with plastic. Is there potential for creating condensation on the plastic and therefore moisture; particularly at the air intake? In the past I have stuffed the air intake, exhaust and air exchange hoses with rags. Thanks for the great post!

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine Sail,
I've always wondered about sealing the air intake and exhaust with plastic. Is there potential for creating condensation on the plastic and therefore moisture; particularly at the air intake? In the past I have stuffed the air intake, exhaust and air exchange hoses with rags. Thanks for the great post!

I seal them when the engine is still warm and DRY after having been run. If you leave the wet exhaust connected there is moisture in it and it will cause moisture to form in the engine exhaust and at least one maybe two cylinders depending upon valve position and number of cylinders..

I seal the intake to minimize "breathing" and mice/rodents... Even if you don't seal it at least remove the wet exhaust hose...

 

[Maine Sail]

Thanks for the check list Maine Sail. Very helpful!

What do you think about pumping Antifreeze through for a transom mounted manual pump? Seems like I've read that somewhere in a list, but can't find it now.

Also, I've ended out with AF in my bilge and engine room from winterizing. I'm thinking I'd like to clean it up thinking less fluid in the cabin is always good. Thoughts?

If your boat is covered well, and no mast, then no need for AF in the bilge. It will greatly cut down on interior condensation over the late fall, winter and spring if the interior of the boat is as dry as possible.