Winterizing Check List

Feb 6, 1998
11,675
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
One of my customers boats arrives at her house tomorrow, :doh:, so I thought it a good time to post my own winterizing check list. I may have forgotten a few items.


Boat Interior & Electronics:
*Remove most electronics and store indoors
*Remove all cushions and store in barn
*Remove all canvas, wash, treat and store in barn
*Remove solar panel
*Remove sails and drop at sail maker for winter cleaning/inspection
*Clean bilges
*Clean all stainless with Spotless Stainless
*Remove all food and "freezable" items
*Clean ice box with bleach and leave stored open for air circulation
*Change battery in solar vent
*Cinch all block and tackle assemblies such as main sheet and vang
*Remove speed or speed/depth insert and clean/lube o-rings

Head & Holding Tank
*Clean head, lube pump and winterize by sucking in PG
*Drain holding tank (while still in water) and fill with bleach & water let sit for a week and get pumped out or hit 3NM and macerate overboard.
*Thoroughly drain holding tank
*Remove drain plugs on seacocks and drain valve body
*Leave seacocks open on hard


Fresh Water System
*Drain both tanks entirely then wipe dry via clean out port
*Drain water heater and blow out with compressor
*By-pass water heater
*Remove fresh water system filter
*Remove faucet mounted Brita filter
*Suck in -50 PG into fresh water system HOSES ONLY open faucets one at a time to get AF at tap.

Engine:
*Change oil & filter
*Change oil only (second time to get fully clean)
*Change gear box fluid
*Drain & fill/change engine AF (every two years)
*Test freeze point of engine ethylene glycol (every year)
*Change HX zinc
*Change both primary and secondary fuel filters
*Change fuel polishing system filter
*Drain fuel tank and burn in homes heating system
*Change zinc in Sea Frost HX
*Clean intake strainer
*Flush RW circuit by SUCKING fresh water through it
*AF raw water side of system
*Remove impeller and prep cover plate and gasket surfaces for spring
*Remove air cleaner and seal off intake with plastic
*Remove exhaust hose and seal outlet with plastic
*Remove glow plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders

Boat:
Wash hull
Remove any waterline staining
Wax hull
Cover boat
Pressure wash bottom and clean out thru-hulls

Battery Bank:
*Charge banks to full
*Check electrolyte level
*Check cell balance via specific gravity (after 24 hour rest)
*If low fill and recharge or equalize
*Re-check cell balance (if out of balance before equalize)
*Test batteries with Midtrionics and Argus analyzers, record test specs
*100% Disconnect battery bank from boat (neg leads)
*Leave batteries on-board to take advantage of cold temps on bank longevity
*Top up with charger once or bi-monthly through out winter
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
One improtant thing that should be added to the list that came up last year.

The plugs for the Raymarine speed and depth thru-hulls should be removed and drained once on the hard. Most remove the speed paddle and put in the plug prior to haul-out. The plug has 2 seals, upper and lower and WILL trap water between the two. This water could freeze and damage the thru-hull.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,675
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
One improtant thing that should be added to the list that came up last year.

The plugs for the Raymarine speed and depth thru-hulls should be removed and drained once on the hard. Most remove the speed paddle and put in the plug prior to haul-out. The plug has 2 seals, upper and lower and WILL trap water between the two. This water could freeze and damage the thru-hull.
Good point Scott and one of those items I forgot.. I will add that..
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
Maine what does this mean? "*Change battery in solar vent"
I haven't come across one that has an accessible battery. Yet.
I have seen that some small solar lights just use a AAA size battery. It looks pretty easy to re-solder...
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,675
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Maine what does this mean? "*Change battery in solar vent"
I haven't come across one that has an accessible battery. Yet.
I have seen that some small solar lights just use a AAA size battery. It looks pretty easy to re-solder...
All the Nicro Day/Night vents have accessible batteries you just need to take it apart to get at them. I buy the rechargeable battery at Radio Shack.... Seems as though these days the batteries are outlasting the fan motors......:cussing: In the winter under the cover I get a lot less solar gain so like to go into it with a fresh battery
 
May 10, 2008
392
Catalina 355 Boston
One of my customers boats arrives at her house tomorrow, :doh:, so I thought it a good time to post my own winterizing check list. I may have forgotten a few items.


Boat Interior & Electronics:
*Remove most electronics and store indoors
*Remove all cushions and store in barn
*Remove all canvas, wash, treat and store in barn
*Remove solar panel
*Remove sails and drop at sail maker for winter cleaning/inspection
*Clean bilges
*Clean all stainless with Spotless Stainless
*Remove all food and "freezable" items
*Clean ice box with bleach and leave stored open for air circulation
*Change battery in solar vent
*Cinch all block and tackle assemblies such as main sheet and vang
*Remove speed or speed/depth insert and clean/lube o-rings

Head & Holding Tank
*Clean head, lube pump and winterize by sucking in PG
*Drain holding tank (while still in water) and fill with bleach & water let sit for a week and get pumped out or hit 3NM and macerate overboard.
*Thoroughly drain holding tank
*Remove drain plugs on seacocks and drain valve body
*Leave seacocks open on hard


Fresh Water System
*Drain both tanks entirely then wipe dry via clean out port
*Drain water heater and blow out with compressor
*By-pass water heater
*Remove fresh water system filter
*Remove faucet mounted Brita filter
*Suck in -50 PG into fresh water system HOSES ONLY open faucets one at a time to get AF at tap.

Engine:
*Change oil & filter
*Change oil only (second time to get fully clean)
*Change gear box fluid
*Drain & fill/change engine AF (every two years)
*Test freeze point of engine ethylene glycol (every year)
*Change HX zinc
*Change both primary and secondary fuel filters
*Change fuel polishing system filter
*Drain fuel tank and burn in homes heating system
*Change zinc in Sea Frost HX
*Clean intake strainer
*Flush RW circuit by SUCKING fresh water through it
*AF raw water side of system
*Remove impeller and prep cover plate and gasket surfaces for spring
*Remove air cleaner and seal off intake with plastic
*Remove exhaust hose and seal outlet with plastic
*Remove glow plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders

Boat:
Wash hull
Remove any waterline staining
Wax hull
Cover boat
Pressure wash bottom and clean out thru-hulls

Battery Bank:
*Charge banks to full
*Check electrolyte level
*Check cell balance via specific gravity (after 24 hour rest)
*If low fill and recharge or equalize
*Re-check cell balance (if out of balance before equalize)
*Test batteries with Midtrionics and Argus analyzers, record test specs
*100% Disconnect battery bank from boat (neg leads)
*Leave batteries on-board to take advantage of cold temps on bank longevity
*Top up with charger once or bi-monthly through out winter
Maine, just curious what you specifically use for the 'wash' part of 'wash and wax'? I've been looking for an effective non-abrasive cleaner for pre-wax cleaning for years--Thx as always...
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,675
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Maine, just curious what you specifically use for the 'wash' part of 'wash and wax'? I've been looking for an effective non-abrasive cleaner for pre-wax cleaning for years--Thx as always...
In the fall I just use AwlWash then follow that up with AwlCare (polymer coating). I also like the Imar Boat Wash. In the spring I re-wash with AwlWash and then use Naptha and clean microfiber rags to remove all the old wax so I can apply two new coats.

During the season I use AwlWash..
 
May 10, 2008
392
Catalina 355 Boston
Maine Sail said:
In the fall I just use AwlWash then follow that up with AwlCare (polymer coating). I also like the Imar Boat Wash. In the spring I re-wash with AwlWash and then use Naptha and clean microfiber rags to remove all the old wax so I can apply two new coats.

During the season I use AwlWash..
Thanks. Are your topsides awl grip or gel coat?
 
Sep 20, 2006
155
Hunter 49 Mystic CT
Mainesail,
I noticed on your list that your don't loosen the alternator belt. Was that an omission or don't you think its necessary?
 
Jul 8, 2005
512
Jeanneau 389 Grosse Pointe Farms, MI
On the head, which way should the swithc be set in winter?

I know you can damage the gasket on the top of the manual head if you leave the switch in the wrong position....

Should it be where you allow water in or where you use it to pump water out????
 
Jul 8, 2005
512
Jeanneau 389 Grosse Pointe Farms, MI
Thanks for the help....I have written it down!

I willl remember this now. I need to just make sure it is that way when sailing. I typically close the intake valve under the sink to be safe when sailing or in the slip.

Dry bowl, just like when you're sailing.
 
Jan 10, 2011
321
Macgregor 25 675 Lake Lanier
I like your list better.

The picture of my boat shows it beached at Midnight Pass Sarasota.
 

DannyS

.
May 27, 2004
927
Beneteau 393 Bayfield, Wi
Question - I live 4 hours away from my sailing grounds so charging up the batteries occasionally throughout the winter is not possible if left on board. If they're topped up after winterizing, will they be alright over the winter or (and I probably already know the answer to this) do I need to bring them home for storage and maintenance? Some folks in our yard leave them on board with the boat plugged in charging all winter long but I question that practice. Not sure if the yard "allows" that but it is done by some.