Hey Folks - I have read many articles on winterization for Northern climates, but what do Southerners do? My C-27 is kept on an inland lake that never really gets below 55 degrees. The boat stays in the water 365 a year. I am concerned about a "hard freeze" that could blow cooling hoses or cause worse problems in the cooling jacket. Normally I would simply drain the jacket by closing the seacock and disconnecting the cooling hoses. However, I plan to sail just about every weekend this "winter," and that would present a bit of a problem. So - if any one has some pointers, I could use 'em. Thanks! Rob
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Sean
Same Question
Hey Neighbor,I posted the same question earlier and just got answers regarding putting the boat up for the winter. What I did last winter was to close the engine sea cock, run the motor to evacuate most the water, change oil, and put a heat light in the engine block. I plan to do the same this year except I bought small heater that turns on automatically at a freeze. Of course we are counting on the breaker's not flipping and at our docks.....that is a risk! Let me know your strategy. Sean
Hey Neighbor,I posted the same question earlier and just got answers regarding putting the boat up for the winter. What I did last winter was to close the engine sea cock, run the motor to evacuate most the water, change oil, and put a heat light in the engine block. I plan to do the same this year except I bought small heater that turns on automatically at a freeze. Of course we are counting on the breaker's not flipping and at our docks.....that is a risk! Let me know your strategy. Sean
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Chuck Kretschmar
Use the pink stuff
Down on the southern lakes where the boats are kept in the water all year we generally run RV/Boat system antifreeze through the engine. It's easy and quick and you can still use the boat year 'round. Most of my boating neighbors have installed a T fitting at the raw water intake or somewhere on the raw water intake line. My boat doesn't have that so I just disconnect the hose from the raw water strainer. Then you just place a funnel into the intake hose, or run the hose into a bucket full of Pink RV/Boat antifreeze. (You can get this at Wal Mart, West Marine, or just about anywhere.) Have someone start your engine and run it until you see pink coming out of your engine water/exhaust. (Don't worry, the antifreeze is biodegradable.) As soon as you see pink coming through the exhaust outlet, shut off the engine. Reconnect your intake hose and you're all set. Next time you want to run the engine, just start it up as usual and it will draw in fresh water and blow out all of the antifreeze in the hoses and engine block. When you're rady to leave the boat, just do the process again. It only takes a few minutes and saves you a lot of worries on cold nights.
Down on the southern lakes where the boats are kept in the water all year we generally run RV/Boat system antifreeze through the engine. It's easy and quick and you can still use the boat year 'round. Most of my boating neighbors have installed a T fitting at the raw water intake or somewhere on the raw water intake line. My boat doesn't have that so I just disconnect the hose from the raw water strainer. Then you just place a funnel into the intake hose, or run the hose into a bucket full of Pink RV/Boat antifreeze. (You can get this at Wal Mart, West Marine, or just about anywhere.) Have someone start your engine and run it until you see pink coming out of your engine water/exhaust. (Don't worry, the antifreeze is biodegradable.) As soon as you see pink coming through the exhaust outlet, shut off the engine. Reconnect your intake hose and you're all set. Next time you want to run the engine, just start it up as usual and it will draw in fresh water and blow out all of the antifreeze in the hoses and engine block. When you're rady to leave the boat, just do the process again. It only takes a few minutes and saves you a lot of worries on cold nights.
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Echo Gulf
Plumbing?
Don't forget your plumbing. The head, holding tank, water pumps etc all can suffer serious damage from freezing. It's cheap insurance to fill the head with RV antifreeze and pump the handle to ensure the entire system is treated. The same for the fresh water system. As for the engine, because our lake usually has 3 to 4 feet of ice on during the winter we have to haul and fully winterize, but having experience with snowblowers and diesel generators, I would like to reccomend the magnetic engine block heaters that are available in most automotive parts stores. If used with a timer (ie: hour on, hour off) the mass of the engine should hold enough heat to keep the entire engine compartment warm and toastie. Using these I've been able to start our old 3 cylinder Lister diesel generator (stored out in the open) in minus 45C temperatures.
Don't forget your plumbing. The head, holding tank, water pumps etc all can suffer serious damage from freezing. It's cheap insurance to fill the head with RV antifreeze and pump the handle to ensure the entire system is treated. The same for the fresh water system. As for the engine, because our lake usually has 3 to 4 feet of ice on during the winter we have to haul and fully winterize, but having experience with snowblowers and diesel generators, I would like to reccomend the magnetic engine block heaters that are available in most automotive parts stores. If used with a timer (ie: hour on, hour off) the mass of the engine should hold enough heat to keep the entire engine compartment warm and toastie. Using these I've been able to start our old 3 cylinder Lister diesel generator (stored out in the open) in minus 45C temperatures.
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John Finch
Winterize?
I keep my C30 on a northern lake. I use a 100 watt heater near the engine and a bubbler under the boat. If the lake water is warm enough to not freeze, why would the engine cooling water freeze? I sail as long as the lake doesn't freeze over. I winterize the plumbing, but not the cooling system unless it gets uncommonally cold. Good luck and fair winds, John S/V Doxology
I keep my C30 on a northern lake. I use a 100 watt heater near the engine and a bubbler under the boat. If the lake water is warm enough to not freeze, why would the engine cooling water freeze? I sail as long as the lake doesn't freeze over. I winterize the plumbing, but not the cooling system unless it gets uncommonally cold. Good luck and fair winds, John S/V Doxology
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Ron
Shorepower?
If you have shore power you can keep a small ceramic electric heater aboard. They have models that have a thermostat. When it gets cold enough to freeze, it turns on. Open engine covers and cabinet doors. Unless it really gets cold this should do the trick. If in doubt winterize like the others have suggested. I winter on the Great Salt Lake the water does not freeze but some of the sailors do! Brrrrr...
If you have shore power you can keep a small ceramic electric heater aboard. They have models that have a thermostat. When it gets cold enough to freeze, it turns on. Open engine covers and cabinet doors. Unless it really gets cold this should do the trick. If in doubt winterize like the others have suggested. I winter on the Great Salt Lake the water does not freeze but some of the sailors do! Brrrrr...
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Rob Rich
RESULTS
And the envelope please..... Okay folks - went down and checked on the boat when the temp started to drop. Asked a few other folks what they did, and got pretty much the same answer - the temp of the ambient water is enough to keep the boat warm. Just to be on the safe side, I bought a small Heat Safe heater that has a built in thermostat and can be set to maintain temps from 80 to 30 degrees. It worked great, and does not generate enough heat to be dangerous. Has a tip over and overheat shut off switch, with two separte overheat fuses. Also put a GFI on the end of the extention cord (12 guage - very important) just for extra safety. Everything went great. I would recommend this configuration for southern sailors - it works really well when the water stays relatively warm. Our cold spells are not long enough or cold enough to damage the engine plumbing, and the heater takes care of keeping the cabin air warm enough that the rest of the plumbing is not affected. In short, even in freezing air temperatures, the boat is wrapped in a 65 degree blanket below the water line. Thanks to everyone who contributed - I really appreciate the advice! Rob
And the envelope please..... Okay folks - went down and checked on the boat when the temp started to drop. Asked a few other folks what they did, and got pretty much the same answer - the temp of the ambient water is enough to keep the boat warm. Just to be on the safe side, I bought a small Heat Safe heater that has a built in thermostat and can be set to maintain temps from 80 to 30 degrees. It worked great, and does not generate enough heat to be dangerous. Has a tip over and overheat shut off switch, with two separte overheat fuses. Also put a GFI on the end of the extention cord (12 guage - very important) just for extra safety. Everything went great. I would recommend this configuration for southern sailors - it works really well when the water stays relatively warm. Our cold spells are not long enough or cold enough to damage the engine plumbing, and the heater takes care of keeping the cabin air warm enough that the rest of the plumbing is not affected. In short, even in freezing air temperatures, the boat is wrapped in a 65 degree blanket below the water line. Thanks to everyone who contributed - I really appreciate the advice! Rob
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