Any genius ways to cover a boat with tarps in the winter...I have an Ericson 23; leaving in on the trailer with the ------mast up; Also need to cover the sides and have to enter it sometimes weather permitting to do a little work this winter..Any pictures would help and I don't have time to build a frame for the cover... Tom
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Winter Covering
When I had my Catalina 25, I bought four sections of 1 " PVC pipe, and a big farm tarp (the silver & black olds they use to cover hay). Although I dropped my mast, I placed the pipes acroos the boat at each stanchon, and tied them fast ...... this kept the tarp up. I draipped the tarp over the boat, rolled the tarp back and up under the bow and tied it down, up under neath, with rubber bungie cords(and stretch them tite). I also parked the boat, bow into the wind, and left the back open. It allowed the air to flow through and also access to get into the boat, if I wanted. You may have to figure some way of peeking the tarp for water run off though, or elso you will have a tremendious water buildup that will distroy everything. Also, with the mast up, just buyt two smaller tarps, and overlap them around the mast base. Hope this helps. Bob Burns=Rascal May you have smooth sailing on warm breezes !
When I had my Catalina 25, I bought four sections of 1 " PVC pipe, and a big farm tarp (the silver & black olds they use to cover hay). Although I dropped my mast, I placed the pipes acroos the boat at each stanchon, and tied them fast ...... this kept the tarp up. I draipped the tarp over the boat, rolled the tarp back and up under the bow and tied it down, up under neath, with rubber bungie cords(and stretch them tite). I also parked the boat, bow into the wind, and left the back open. It allowed the air to flow through and also access to get into the boat, if I wanted. You may have to figure some way of peeking the tarp for water run off though, or elso you will have a tremendious water buildup that will distroy everything. Also, with the mast up, just buyt two smaller tarps, and overlap them around the mast base. Hope this helps. Bob Burns=Rascal May you have smooth sailing on warm breezes !
Winter cover
Don't know if your Ericson has a mast crutch or not, but my (Macgregor 26S) mast is bolted to top of the bow pulpit and supported near the stern by a crutch when I lower the mast. Actually, I have 2 crutches, one about 4.5 feet long for traveling, and another about 6 feet long to allow me more room to move around under the mast when I'm parked at home. I have a few 10' lengths of 1/2" pvc pipe that I bungie to the mast at several points from about the center of the cabin to the aft end of the mast. The pvc droops on each side of the mast, and when I cover the works with 12' wide tarps, I get about the same effect as a frame with a high center. Bungie cords pull the tarps down tight on the lifelines. Since the mast is higher at the stern, I don't pull the tarp all the way down over the cockpit- just enough to be sure rain will run off. The whole boat is covered, but you can easily work in the cockpit or go below. If you don't have a crutch, I'm sure you could make some arrangement to support your mast near the stern. If you keep your mast up, you'll have to try Bob Burns' suggestion- 2 tarps overlapped around the mast. You may still want some pvc pipe to hold parts of the tarps up for drainage and/or for access to the cockpit. Good Luck!
Don't know if your Ericson has a mast crutch or not, but my (Macgregor 26S) mast is bolted to top of the bow pulpit and supported near the stern by a crutch when I lower the mast. Actually, I have 2 crutches, one about 4.5 feet long for traveling, and another about 6 feet long to allow me more room to move around under the mast when I'm parked at home. I have a few 10' lengths of 1/2" pvc pipe that I bungie to the mast at several points from about the center of the cabin to the aft end of the mast. The pvc droops on each side of the mast, and when I cover the works with 12' wide tarps, I get about the same effect as a frame with a high center. Bungie cords pull the tarps down tight on the lifelines. Since the mast is higher at the stern, I don't pull the tarp all the way down over the cockpit- just enough to be sure rain will run off. The whole boat is covered, but you can easily work in the cockpit or go below. If you don't have a crutch, I'm sure you could make some arrangement to support your mast near the stern. If you keep your mast up, you'll have to try Bob Burns' suggestion- 2 tarps overlapped around the mast. You may still want some pvc pipe to hold parts of the tarps up for drainage and/or for access to the cockpit. Good Luck!
Tom - I have an Ericson 25
and I've put it on the hard for the winter. Mast is down and sitting in crutches as it's been moved to our back yard. I've removed all standing and running rigging. This will make it easier to work on during the winter and spring as well as reducing exposure to the Illinois winter. I removed the stanchions to eliminate the valley between the cabin and lifelines when spreading the tarp. This should reduce or eliminate collecting water/ice on the tarp. Other boats I've had wouldn't let you do that but the Ericson's stanchions slide out of the bases after removing the set screw. I've always set up the tarp so I could gain entry to the boat. Not that hard to do - just setup your lines so they are easy to tie/retie when needed.
and I've put it on the hard for the winter. Mast is down and sitting in crutches as it's been moved to our back yard. I've removed all standing and running rigging. This will make it easier to work on during the winter and spring as well as reducing exposure to the Illinois winter. I removed the stanchions to eliminate the valley between the cabin and lifelines when spreading the tarp. This should reduce or eliminate collecting water/ice on the tarp. Other boats I've had wouldn't let you do that but the Ericson's stanchions slide out of the bases after removing the set screw. I've always set up the tarp so I could gain entry to the boat. Not that hard to do - just setup your lines so they are easy to tie/retie when needed.
covering my C22
I've used this technique for several years now. I leave drop the mast and leave the rigging attached. I tie the mast off at the bow and stern. I then use 25 ft. of 2" PVC pipe, with couplings, to form a redgepole. I brace it at the mast step, and also near the companionway so that it is curved, and higher than the mast. Mext step is to take pieces of 3/4" PVC tubing and put them perpendicular to the ridgepole and spaced about every 16"s. I use duct tape, BACKWARDS, so that the stick side doesn't stick to anything, and I cut it with a knife to remove. The ribs are attached to the stanchions or lifelines. The frame work looks like a giang snake skeleton when finished. I then put an old tarp, then a new tarp over the framework and tie it off. I can crawl in over the stern with a little effort, but I can still get inside of my 'tent to work on the boat. No snow or water collects, and everything runs off. The finish product looks like a connestoga wagon.
I've used this technique for several years now. I leave drop the mast and leave the rigging attached. I tie the mast off at the bow and stern. I then use 25 ft. of 2" PVC pipe, with couplings, to form a redgepole. I brace it at the mast step, and also near the companionway so that it is curved, and higher than the mast. Mext step is to take pieces of 3/4" PVC tubing and put them perpendicular to the ridgepole and spaced about every 16"s. I use duct tape, BACKWARDS, so that the stick side doesn't stick to anything, and I cut it with a knife to remove. The ribs are attached to the stanchions or lifelines. The frame work looks like a giang snake skeleton when finished. I then put an old tarp, then a new tarp over the framework and tie it off. I can crawl in over the stern with a little effort, but I can still get inside of my 'tent to work on the boat. No snow or water collects, and everything runs off. The finish product looks like a connestoga wagon.
simplified tarping
I've been tarping for Canadian winters for a number of years. I've built wooden structures, rope structures etc. I find the easiest system is to buy small tarps for the bow and deck.overlap them.. . right on the deck thereby minimizing wind lift.. if you can bungee them to the stanchions or lifelines .. great if not use bungees or ropes to go under the boat and around to the other side.. i leave my mast and boom up.. we use a 10 by 12 tarp over the boom just like a boom tent and bungee them to the stanchions and lifelines. cheers.. Derek
I've been tarping for Canadian winters for a number of years. I've built wooden structures, rope structures etc. I find the easiest system is to buy small tarps for the bow and deck.overlap them.. . right on the deck thereby minimizing wind lift.. if you can bungee them to the stanchions or lifelines .. great if not use bungees or ropes to go under the boat and around to the other side.. i leave my mast and boom up.. we use a 10 by 12 tarp over the boom just like a boom tent and bungee them to the stanchions and lifelines. cheers.. Derek
Windshield Washer anti-freeze
On another boat site there is a bit of controversy going on addressing the use of windshield washer liquid, said to me alcohol, for use in the heat exchanger.Used for winter lay-up, but some use it all continually as it has been pointed out that in the old days (yesterday fer me) anti-freeze was alcohol and the only problem with the much cheaper W.W. liquid is the evaporation process. Meaning, it does not do any damage to the engine or components. Any thoughts or facts noted on this here?
On another boat site there is a bit of controversy going on addressing the use of windshield washer liquid, said to me alcohol, for use in the heat exchanger.Used for winter lay-up, but some use it all continually as it has been pointed out that in the old days (yesterday fer me) anti-freeze was alcohol and the only problem with the much cheaper W.W. liquid is the evaporation process. Meaning, it does not do any damage to the engine or components. Any thoughts or facts noted on this here?
never ceases to amaze
It is amazing the extent to which some will go to save so little. By the way, glycol is also an alcohol.
It is amazing the extent to which some will go to save so little. By the way, glycol is also an alcohol.
Agreed Don
But that does not address the question of some of these guys, knowledgable guys, using it for years. Will it work, sounds like I does, what is the harm, and are the savings in anyway worth it to an average boat owner?
But that does not address the question of some of these guys, knowledgable guys, using it for years. Will it work, sounds like I does, what is the harm, and are the savings in anyway worth it to an average boat owner?
worth it?
Whether it's worth it is more a matter of the circumstances of the individual(s) involved. Windshield washer alcohol-based antifreeze has no corrosion inhibitors and may in fact promote corrosion as compared with glycol-based antifreeze, some of which do have inhibitors. I'd also check the expansion properties of windshield antifreeze before suggesting this - it might expand as temp decreases - not sure as it's not intended for a closed loop system. Some people saying they have done X for years with success is like saying "so far, so good". More important, why take ANY chance on a $10,000 engine just to save $2 /gallon?
Whether it's worth it is more a matter of the circumstances of the individual(s) involved. Windshield washer alcohol-based antifreeze has no corrosion inhibitors and may in fact promote corrosion as compared with glycol-based antifreeze, some of which do have inhibitors. I'd also check the expansion properties of windshield antifreeze before suggesting this - it might expand as temp decreases - not sure as it's not intended for a closed loop system. Some people saying they have done X for years with success is like saying "so far, so good". More important, why take ANY chance on a $10,000 engine just to save $2 /gallon?
I was just checking on the toxicity of
various anti-freeze materials. Ethylene glycol can kill an adult with aslittle as 30 grams (about one ounce) A 50-50 blend of water and EG will protect to about -40 F. Once that mix is diluted further when the system is flushed it is probably of little consequence. EG does biodegrade and is metabolized in the body into poisonous metabolites. There is safe anti-freeze with corrosion inhibitors incorporated in the product. There is no good reason to "make shift".
various anti-freeze materials. Ethylene glycol can kill an adult with aslittle as 30 grams (about one ounce) A 50-50 blend of water and EG will protect to about -40 F. Once that mix is diluted further when the system is flushed it is probably of little consequence. EG does biodegrade and is metabolized in the body into poisonous metabolites. There is safe anti-freeze with corrosion inhibitors incorporated in the product. There is no good reason to "make shift".
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