Hey everyone, quick question, I found a deal on some ¼ inch plexiglass, what spacing should I use for the screws?
Window replacement questions
- Thread starter fred1diver
- Start date
This is a really good video I've watched a few times..... in this one the ports are glued in and not screwed.
Sorry ..."glued" is a bad word. Adhesively welded....
Sorry ..."glued" is a bad word. Adhesively welded....
What is in there now and what is the spacing?
Many boats do not use screws at all, my ports are simply held in place by a caulk, Dow 795.
Many boats do not use screws at all, my ports are simply held in place by a caulk, Dow 795.
the boat is still 2 hours away and I can't get to it due to the covid 19, so I can't measure what is there now, but I know there aren't many screws, but as stated above, I found a 4x8 sheet of ¼" that will be used for a few projects, but the main one will be the windows (ports)
how do you proceed to just "glue" them?
how do you proceed to just "glue" them?
ok, so "gluing" them is pretty straight forward, at least on drop in windows, but how about side mounted ports? will the tape hold them enough for the tape to achieve full bond?
I'm not sure which ports you are referring to. Are some in a frame? The method Andy uses in the BoatWorks Today video is pretty bomb proof. No screws needed if you follow the directions and use the 3M very high bonding tape and a good caulk.
Aluminum framed windows are a different beast, still very doable.
no frame on mine, was just wondering if the tape's initial bond will suffice to hold them securely before full adhesion.
I'm going to use that method, thanks everyone
I'm going to use that method, thanks everyone
The biggest thing to think about when drilling holes to accept screws in plexiglass is to drill the holes bigger than the screw. Plexiglass will, with temperature changes, expand and contract and if your screw holes make the fit too tight, your plexiglass will crack.
One trick I've heard to avoid chipping is to install the blade of a circular saw backwards. A router also works well
One method used before the 3M tape was available used a few small screws that were out side the plexiglass. The PG sat on the screws, no holes were drilled.
I think that particular tape is strong enough. I didn't know about that tape 20 years ago when I did the windows on my Mark 25. They were curved and I was using silicone adhesive. I had to rig up a system to lean cinder blocks against the window to hold the curved shape until the adhesive was set.
If you use the tape specified I think you will need strike marks to align the new PG in the window opening. If you try to eyeball it you may bend the work and find out when you get to the end, that it doesn't fit. That would make a bad day.
If you use the tape specified I think you will need strike marks to align the new PG in the window opening. If you try to eyeball it you may bend the work and find out when you get to the end, that it doesn't fit. That would make a bad day.
I replaced the windows on my boat with 1/4 inch plexiglass a couple of winters ago and was very pleased with the results. Spent time making a template then used a router to cut the plexiglass and round the outer edge. Painted the strip that covers the FRP black so that there would be no show through. Stuck wooden blocks as guides to the paper on the plexiglass with double sided tape to ensure a smooth one time install. Used the 3M tape and Dow Corning sealant. Biggest challenge was getting the sealant all the way into the narrow gap up to the tape as I did not want a sealant bevel on the outside. Sailed the boat hard and survived a couple of wet PNW winters with no issues
