Windlass Seized Clutch

[HandsOnTech]

The windlass motor is running, and it will pull rode just fine. The problem is that the clutch mechanism for the chain portion is seized and the chain drum is spinning freely.

I have attempted tapping the clutch lever with a deadblow hammer to no avail and I am concerned with damaging the gearbox. All the YouTube videos start with removing the screw at the center of the drum. The screws in the videos have Allen key heads. Unfortunately, mine has a very shallow flat-head slot. I bought a flathead bit for my socket set ratchet, but the slot is so shallow I am afraid it will strip easily.

I have tried PB Blaster several times over the past few months to no avail.

Any insight or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[rgranger]

At some point you are going to have to go for it but I think penetrating oil is the right approach. When you do go for it, I would use an impact driver type of screw driver and find a flat head bit that fits the slot as snugly as possible.

If you have never used one, go to 52 seconds in this video and watch.

 

[rgranger]

I got mine at Harbor Frieght.

 

[kloudie1]

Windlass would have to come out to be able to get hammer swing room.. Ya might try a wide blade stubby screwdriver with a wrench hex on the shaft.. put a wrench on it and use a lever/spacers propped against the inside of the locker to put lots of pressure on the handle so the bit doesn't slip out.

 

[HandsOnTech]

Yes, that was my first thought. Unfortunately, the impact wrench requires room to swing a hammer. As shown in the photo, the windlass is recessed in the anchor locker with a few inches of clearance at the screw. I could remove the whole windlass to use the impact wrench, but it would appear that the screw has to be removed to drop the windlass, unless I want to do some major fiberglass cutting.

I was just out there trying the hammer again. It seems to be slowly moving, but maybe just wishful thinking in the hot sun.

How many degrees should the clutch turn from open to closed? Facing the screw, is it clockwise to engage and CCW to disengage?

 

[Kings Gambit]

When stuff like this happens to me I use the Ace heat gun on high setting to heat and then let cool the fitting a couple of times; then heat again to make the try. Repeat this several times if need be. It usually works if I’m patient. Try this w/the slot head bolt as well.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Also. If you can, remove all the stuff out of the way and increase (extend) the lever arm length (torque) of the handle using a pipe or similar. Even a little bit can help. If you make a rt angle extension you can use the persuader against the vertical part.

 

[Terry Cox]

Our boat has the same Maxwell windlass. What happens when you completely release the knurled face plate locking ring then with a large flat head screw driver or pry bar inserted between the gypsy and the motor mounting frame to release the clutch cone? The clutch is nothing more than a bronze friction cone. That is how I released our clutch cone. Once it was released, the face plate screw came off with a large short flat head screwdriver and adjustable wrench used turn the screw driver. Tapping on the screw face after applying some Liquid Wrench or similar product might help loosen the set screw.

 

[HandsOnTech]

Progress!!!
So much easier when the whole team is working on it.

KG, thank you for mentioning the pipe. I only had a large adjustable wrench, but with a little patience, it did the trick. Two foot pipe will be added to my toolkit next trip to HD.

Terry, thank you for the explanation of the innards. It is frustrating working from the outside without knowing what is inside. Did I understand you correctly to say that if I keep turning the clutch in the disengage direction (CCW) the end plate will come off even though the center screw is still in place?

To answer my own questions:
CCW to disengage
About 180 degrees of travel

Thank you everyone. Next trip hoisting anchor will be a pleasure.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Progress!!!
So much easier when the whole team is working on it.

KG, thank you for mentioning the pipe. I only had a large adjustable wrench, but with a little patience, it did the trick. Two foot pipe will be added to my toolkit next trip to HD.
Thank you everyone. Next trip hoisting anchor will be a pleasure.

From Archimedes: “Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.”

 

[Terry Cox]

No. The knurled face plate will turn only so far, then removing the set machine screw will open up the shaft and allow all the shaft parts to slide off. Do not apply any lubricate to the cone face. Do squirt some non petroleum grease into the Zerk fittings that lubricate the shaft bearing..Those fittings should also have a rubber cap to keep them clean. Most auto parts stores should carry them.

 

[HandsOnTech]

Progress!!!
So much easier when the whole team is working on it.

KG, thank you for mentioning the pipe. I only had a large adjustable wrench, but with a little patience, it did the trick. Two foot pipe will be added to my toolkit next trip to HD.
Thank you everyone. Next trip hoisting anchor will be a pleasure.

From Archimedes: “Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.”

Now that I think about it out of the hot sun, the emergency rudder post would make an excellent lever.

 

[Terry Cox]

Now that I think about it out of the hot sun, the emergency rudder post would make an excellent lever.

Argh! About trying to kill a housefly with an AR-15.

 

[HandsOnTech]

Now that I have the clutch engaged, this project has dropped on the priority list. Still no luck with getting the screw out. I will bring the heat gun next trip.

If I cannot get the screw out, is there an access point & direction where I can spray lubricant with a red straw onto the desired surfaces without disassembly?

My thinking at this point is, “If it ain’t broke, don’t break it”.

 

[Terry Cox]

Trying to remember whether that lock machined screw is left or right hand thread. I’ll check when I go to the boat this week. If you have access to an impact wrench, that might do the trick. Very effective tool. May not be enough room to strike it. A pneumatic impact wrench, another consideration.

 

[smokey73]

A "right angle" pneumatic impact wrench might be the ticket. They are not cheap though and very few people seem to have one laying around so try other methods without buggering up the screw slot. Make sure you get an "impact rachet" not just a rachet wrench. They make electric ones now too but I'm not sure how much torque they generate. It may be enough though.

The head gun, PB blaster, tapping on the screw plus some patience may be effective and can't hurt. Make sure you wait for @Terry Cox feedback on whether it is left or right hand thread though.

I had to buy one to remove a stubborn bolt on the back of my generator to avoid removing the generator to replace a drive belt. If you get one go with the 3/8 drive version so you can get a short broad flathead 3/8 inch drive socket screwdriver bit. (Check autoparts store for this). Check the clearance from the head of the cap for the windlass to the edge of the anchor locker first to make sure you have enough room. It looks like you do but you have to remember you need room for the impact wrench plus the screwdriver bit. When I get home I'll measure mine and give you an idea of how much room you need. You'll also want to use something to jam it firmly against the screw to avoid buggering up the head and that may still happen.

When you are all done, replace the flathead screw with either a star or allen wrench drive screw. Best of luck

 

[HandsOnTech]

A "right angle" pneumatic impact wrench might be the ticket. They are not cheap though and very few people seem to have one laying around so try other methods without buggering up the screw slot. Make sure you get an "impact rachet" not just a rachet wrench. They make electric ones now too but I'm not sure how much torque they generate. It may be enough though.

The head gun, PB blaster, tapping on the screw plus some patience may be effective and can't hurt. Make sure you wait for @Terry Cox feedback on whether it is left or right hand thread though.

I found a set of six bits for a 1/2” drive (3 Phillips, 3 slot) at Harbor Freight. Unfortunately, the slot is the length of the largest bit, but the width of the smallest bit. I was using it with a 2 foot breaker bar, so plenty of torque, but very difficult to keep the small bit in the narrow slot. Clearly this screw is a poor design choice for this application. It did occur to me that it might be a left hand screw, but no luck with that either. I will wait for Terry’s feedback.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Heat it.

 

[Terry Cox]

Tried to remove the set screw last week. No luck yet. Not enough room for my impact wrench. Need a large flat head socket driver. Nada Pep Boys, nor NAPA. Will keep on trying and post the results soon. Very soon.

 

[shemandr]

...Windlass would have to come out to be able to get hammer swing room..

Maybe it's not appropriate to this situation but I wonder sometimes if the best solution is remove the hardware from the boat and work on it in your shop with the hardware on a bench at a comfortable height and good lighting.