Windlass or Winch

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Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
It depends

How fast is a manual windlass that you have to crank with a winch handle? I guess it depends on the operator but it sure seems like it would be pretty slow. I don't have one so I can't comment on powered windlasses, but energy draw will somewhat be related to the working load. I have seen tow trucks winch a car onto a platform for hauling away, they seem to go pretty quick. How fast are you looking to raise your anchor?
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Jibes,

I think part of the issues with this conversion it that it would likely cost more than a decent in-expensive windlass. Many winches, including the one on my old CJ that I rebuilt have little capacity for line. The winch cable is small diameter and rusts quite easily and also tends to "meat hook". I would not doubt if these winches shared a similar motor design but these winches, at least the one I repaired had the motor on one end, and the reductions gears in the opposite end. the whole contraption was held together with a base plate and then some large draw rapds which held the motor end and gear end together.

In order to use this as an effecticve windlass the low capacity drum would need to come off and be replaced by a capstan that would allow tailing of the anchor rode. Unless you totally rebuilt the base plate and made adapter ears on both the motor end and the gear end to allow more rode I don't think you could get enough stretchy rode on there for anchoring in anything more than about 9-10 feet of water with no tidal range.. Even then you would also need to extend the diameter of the roller ends to keep the rode captive and not have it pinch between the drum and motor or gear end. Big ships, and even some schooners, use winch designs similar to this but the drums are HUGE!

With most of these winches they have high pulling power due to the gearing which is often in the other end of the winch.

With ANY electric windlass installation the cost of the windlass is often nearly matched with the wiring, installation and or batteries to get the power to the windlass. This would be no different with a Warn winch.

Could it be done? Sure, but would it cost less in the end and the long run? Perhaps not... Windlass motors are sealed and highly water resistant or water proof for a reason as boats often submerge the bow in salt water. My Warn was re-built because it was NOT waterproof, nor was the starter or electrical system on my CJ, which was also rebuilt..:doh:
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Excellent points Maine, Now we are making progress

So if we mount the motor mechanism under deck in the v-berth area to keep it out of the elements, then run a shaft driven by a bevel gear up through a PSS on the deck and the shaft above deck has another bevel gear to drive a drum or capstan I think we will be in business. The speed could be increased by adjusting the gear ratios top and bottom. The gears dont' need to be accurate so they could probably be cast for cost savings.
 

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
I gave up an hour or so of sleep last night thinking about this. I've designed and built a couple things in my life. A small project I've been working on for a couple years........

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bvillecarindexpage.html

... until this boat got in the way. Some of them have worked and some didn't. Some after considerable thought, making drawings, pricing parts and adding some in for what I probably forgot were never built. Personally I think this is one of those.

If you want to do it why even buy the winch? You aren't going to use a lot of it. Start with a starter motor, that is about what they have in them anyway. Their gearing isn't ideal for what you are going to do, so why pay for that and then have to build new gearing to correct that gearing? As Maine has pointed out the cage has the motor on one end and the gears or at least some support for bearings on the other end. This will all be in your way trying to make a jack shaft that also has to be supported up through your deck by sealed bearings at least on the top end and down below. Then there is making a capstan to go on the end of the shaft. All of this has to have some kind of universal mounting system before people are going to buy it and install it or have it installed. When you are done what do you have left of the winch you bought to start with? All of these new parts have to be designed, machined, tested, and produced.

Now I also looked at using the winch as is with the cable. Let's say you foot the bill for stainless cable and put it on the drum. As has been pointed out you still have to have chain on the rode to make the anchor set. I would say a minimum of 30 feet. So you are winching in with the drum, but what happens when you get to the chain. It isn't going to go on the drum. So now you have to pull the chain and anchor up by hand. This is the hard part anyway. It isn't that hard to either pull the boat over or run it over towards the anchor and bring the line up by hand. For me at least the hard part comes when I get to the chain and anchor. That is when I would like to have the winch.

Now you probably just think I'm being a wise a** about this, but I really did think about it a lot.

As I said before buy the winch and start on the project. If you do and there is something I can help with within reason I'll do it and I mean that,

Sum

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