Windlass kinda limp

[Rich Stidger]

All of the respondents have good ideas and advice. I will only add that S-L used motors made by Leroy-Somer in the mid 90's and these motors are real junk. I rebuilt my S-L Anchorman 1000 twice before I just replaced the entire motor with one built in the UK. Parts for the original motors were extremely expensive and had long lead times. If it turns out that the motor is ka-put, let me know and I will look up the motor replacement contact in my files. I have posted this information in the past on this board, so yo might want to search for "Leroy Somer".

 

[MJWarner]

Ok, you won't believe it, I just finished a lovely reply and then while trying to post it, the net at the yard here went down. So here's the quick and dirty version.
Thanks to everyone for the great replies. Steve/Tommays/Capt Mike, checking connections and voltages this AM, from bats to windlass. ThanksCapt Mike I do know the procedure for running the engine in the yard, but if anything (and by this I really mean ME) were to screw up ( again think ME) I'm looking at a rebuild or worse on my perfectly good engine. Thanks though, for your apparent blind confidence in ME, even though it's most likely misplaced,lol.
Capt' Jerry, check grease is next, probably needs to be serviced anyway, BTW, we called and replacement motor over $600. plus 2 hrs labor(must send in)
Sailinnsc, Know a place locally, we can have it field tested if all else is a dead end.
Finally, ZeeHag, We are looking quite closely at the Lofrans 1000. I just have this fantasy... it's pouring a deluge, and I'm at the helm, being kept relatively dry by the bimini. I'm running the engine up to the anchor, while pressing a button and the chain, she's coming aboard! Ahhh, dreams.

 

[MJWarner]

Thanks to everyone. Will start checking all these things today. A call to the PO who sheepishly told us the windlass is connected to a single bat that starts the Genset. We are charging this first, as it may provide insight to our problem, it was at 9 volts. DUH.
I'll keep everyone posted as to progress, I promise.
And Zee, we are looking quite closely at the Lofrans 1000. It;s just that I have this vision of me, at the helm, in a deluge, relatively dry. Driving up to the anchor, button in hand, and the anchor and chain... she's comming aboard! Ahh, dreams.

 

[cygnussailor]

Make a temporary connection right at the windlass using a battery and short cables. If it works good then the problem is with the wiring/connections getting power to the windlass. If it still doesn't work then the problem is obviously with the windlass itself. I don't see any sense in checking a lot of things that aren't the problem.

 

[kloudie1]

MJWArner.. Laughing.. ahhhh the joys of finding "new" systems.. seems like you've found a major thing.. A temp jump start cable set to the small batt from the big ones will give ya some insight.. with the boat house charger on and pumping.. Best of luck with all the discoveries.. you'll undoubtedly find some more !! all part of the fun ! Welcome Aboard!

 

[Stu Jackson]

Thanks to everyone. Will start checking all these things today. A call to the PO who sheepishly told us the windlass is connected to a single bat that starts the Genset. We are charging this first, as it may provide insight to our problem, it was at 9 volts. DUH.

One of the first things I did when we bought our boat was to start drawing wiring diagrams. While the basic wiring diagram that came with the manual was available, only YOU can figure out what the PO did (unless he sheepishly actually told you). Figuring out that the windlass only worked on a single separate battery is pretty basic, and you really do need to start tracing some wires, and answer questions like how it gets charged, what are the switch positions, and the other things that come with a boat electrical system.

I've put together a primer that links to this and other websites to which Maine Sail and I have both contributed.

Electrical 101:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html

 

[zeehag]

mj--even my much needed bilge pumps dont function when my batts are below 12.4!!!!!
have fun---- my electric windlass is backed up by my new to me beautiful bronze life saver!!! i dont know make or model but i love the damn thing....lol.... i still need 2 parts for my lofrans--if you are dreaming of a lofrans, go bigger than 1000-- 1200 may be agood size dfor 41 ft.... i was advised by someone, prolly a naysayer, that 1000 isnt big enough for my boat, but aqnother soul wning a boat like mine said is just about barely ok....it WILL work on my stuff....LOL then i got the beautiful 60 pound bruce and it was all over-- i will use my manual one the most--and i will repair the lofrans in mazatlan......goood luck and fair winds.. hurry into seas and sail with me.......

i think your electrical one will work well with a strong battery---LOL-- just follow the words of those smarter than me and have a good time---remember-- HUGE fat wires. GOOOD charge in battery.... drive up and over anchor as if is manually(by hand) extracted from mud and is gonna be ok.....:dance:


ps--if it is pouring a deluge, you may leave anchorage, bubby and i willhunker down and wait out the storm....... i am catlike in my dislike of water on my back unless is WARM water.....

 

[soberkiwi]

the windless does sound a bit lite but straight off the ground there is no real strain, i have 60lbs plus chain useing a 1200 works fine, even with a bit of wind, the batteries should have any amount of grunt without motor, we do use the winch sometimes without motor, no problems, sounds like the winch is dieing or there is fault in the cables going to it, the batteries are fine the anchor not caught , has to be from the cable to the windless.

 

[Stargazer3]

My "new" 2000 H410 also has a windlass "problem." When trying to use it - all I hear are the solinoids clicking. Batteries are good and fully charged. All wires I can reach are tight and no corrosion. There is no "load" on the chain or movement. Advice? What is "stuck??" Should I pull the cover? Bill on STARGAZER

 

[Steve Dion]

I appears that the new batteries on MJ's vessel are NOT the ones that power the windlass!

New battery or a good charge may rectify this issue.

 

[JoeWhite]

It is not likely to be worn brushes or bad electric motor. It is impossible that he motor has been enrgized and the motor has turned thousands of turn that the brushes has worn out. Bad and corroded connections have to be the answer. Yes - have someone step on the switch while you measure the voltage at the motor lugs at the motor. Less than 10.5 volts and you have bad connections.

 

[CarlN]

LOL. Of course, any idiot knows the windlass should be connected to an itty bitty genset start battery that is charged by the itty bitty genset alternator that is never running when you're using the windlass. It's really hard to make this stuff up. :dance:

TOP 10 REASONS TO HOOK A WINDLASS TO THE GENSET START BATTERY

Reason #10 - The genset battery needed more exercise.

Reason #9 - The installer couldn't get the heavy cover off the house bank

Reason #8 - There was no room on the house battery posts for the windlass cables

Reason #7 - The installer couldn't figure out which of the eight posts in the four battery house bank were the right ones to use.

Reason #6 (up to you guys now)....

 

[Steve Dion]

Joe:

NO not 10.5 volts, but 9. I am thinking that a new battery is in order and it would not be a bad idea to have it charged from the engine & shore power.

 

[sandpiper10471]

And make sure the cables are an appropriate size. Depending on the length of run from the batteries you will likely want two ought or maybe even four ought. These things suck a ton of power, but only for a short time. Undersized cables are very dangerous and will heat up as well as not deliver the needed power.

 

[MJWarner]

OMG! You guys are great! I'm in the sun, sanding and priming my sheer and bootstrap all day, the charger running like a demon possesed, and you are still helping me solve my lil' problem! Ok, I'll hurry, since it's a four tylenol night on this boat:
Stu, My gosh what a couple of wonderful guys! Al and I will eat that up! Our last boat had a blue extention cord. This boat has, well, apparantly everything. You could say we are in the first flush of "GOSH!" (as an aside, I just received my first two rolls of poly butyl tape and am just DYING to re-bed something!lol)
Carlf, ROTFLOL!!! Yea, we are charging. Then changing. At least it was the PO. I mean, "I" didn't have to say "I" decided to run the windlass off a bat that is hardly ever charged up, and only used to start the genset.
Steve, Yes! We will start a log on this bat as soon as it comes off the charger to see if the charge holds, and make decision to replace from there.
I see my posts that I thought got killed by the poor intenet connection posted after all. Just want you to know I don't really have short term memory loss.
I see my posts that I thought got killed by the poor intenet connection posted after all. Just want you to know I don't really have short term memory loss.
Ha, may be tired, but the jokes still flow!

 

[Stu Jackson]

LOL. Of course, any idiot knows the windlass should be connected to an itty bitty genset start battery that is charged by the itty bitty genset alternator that is never running when you're using the windlass. It's really hard to make this stuff up. :dance:

TOP 10 REASONS TO HOOK A WINDLASS TO THE GENSET START BATTERY

Reason #10 - The genset battery needed more exercise.

Reason #9 - The installer couldn't get the heavy cover off the house bank

Reason #8 - There was no room on the house battery posts for the windlass cables

Reason #7 - The installer couldn't figure out which of the eight posts in the four battery house bank were the right ones to use.

Reason #6 (up to you guys now)....

Reason #6 - The installer "heard from someone" that it's better to run the windlass off a small, hidden, separate battery, rather than increasing the house bank and using all of the house bank's power.

Reason #5 - The PO wanted to trim his boat and avoid the port list so he got another battery instead of simply lead, and figured he could at least use it for something.

 

[RichH]

Bad connections or long OLD battery cables would be the first thing to check

I would start simple and see what voltage is geeing delivered AT the windlass as close to it as possible

Agree .... also do resistance check across windlass motor ('fried' carbon brushes), control switches ('carbonized' contacts), and across the windlass' voltage panel breaker. With such huge amperage draw on most windlass systems any 'resistance' is going to be a killer (heat AND vastly increased amperage draw).

 

[CarlN]

#4 - Because the genset battery is used for everything. That four battery bank isn't actually connected to anything.

 

[Alex Dare]

Might be a good idea to install an echocharger from the house bank to the genset start battery.

 

[zeehag]

is it possible to solar charge the remote battery ?? might be a good idea for topping it off...... just thinking (uhoh---i been told that is dangerous to my health....)