I have a 1994 Hunter 29.5 that I would like to install an electric windlass. Does anyone have any experience, comments, or suggestions for the windlass selection and installation?
Thanks,
I-Lean
Thanks,
I-Lean
Windlass for Hunter 29.5
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windlass
Don't do it I've owned several types and brands of windlasses and all became problematic breaking down hanging up and the like I just run pulleys down the starboard side below my head sail furling pulleys and store line under seat and when anchor gets stuck just wrap up on winch post and pop it out I have a duel anchor pulpit so I have to go forward to set the big hook
Don't do it I've owned several types and brands of windlasses and all became problematic breaking down hanging up and the like I just run pulleys down the starboard side below my head sail furling pulleys and store line under seat and when anchor gets stuck just wrap up on winch post and pop it out I have a duel anchor pulpit so I have to go forward to set the big hook
Check the archives for threads on this subject. Would not recommend one unless you regularly anchor at depths over 100 ft and carry an all chain rode or there is a physical ailment present.
I'd ditto what everybody else said and add "how are you going to power it?" 750 watts is about 1 horse power or 750/12=62.5 amps draw at max load. While the energy draw is not that much due to a) then engine is already started and the alternator will try and keep the batts up when it sees 11 volts and b) you don't run the windlass for very long so the amp hours are small (three minutes of max load would be 62.5*(3/60)=3.1 AH.) But you still have to have cables to the batts that can handle the amps and not get hot. This brings up a host of questions;
How long is the circuit (sum of out and back)?
How big a cable do I need to support that length and the amps needed?
Can I route that big a cable through the intervening spaces?
Where do I put the electrical controls?
Do I have sufficient drop from the caspsin to the anchor locker to even make the thing work without constantly knocking down chain castles?
How do I handle chain AND rope rode? (this one may not be an issue)
Can I get a direct line between the caspsin and the bow spirit so the chain does not slip off the caspsin?
Would a hand crank windlass (and only anchoring in snug harbors where the wind and waves are a lot less) be a better solution given the amount of cosmetic surgery and standing on my head in a phone booth pulling cable I’m going to have to do?
How long is the circuit (sum of out and back)?
How big a cable do I need to support that length and the amps needed?
Can I route that big a cable through the intervening spaces?
Where do I put the electrical controls?
Do I have sufficient drop from the caspsin to the anchor locker to even make the thing work without constantly knocking down chain castles?
How do I handle chain AND rope rode? (this one may not be an issue)
Can I get a direct line between the caspsin and the bow spirit so the chain does not slip off the caspsin?
Would a hand crank windlass (and only anchoring in snug harbors where the wind and waves are a lot less) be a better solution given the amount of cosmetic surgery and standing on my head in a phone booth pulling cable I’m going to have to do?
+1 to what Bill said. I have a 29.5 and don't see how you could install a windless. The anchor well is very shallow and I figured I would be untangling piles of chain that would stack up. Also I didn't want to cut up he anchor locker hatch. If breaking out the anchor is a problem I would tie a float with a trip line.
Echo Don't do it
The 29.5 simply isn't configured for it. The windlass won't fit anywhere easily. How hard can it be to haul in the anchor, perhaps with the help of First Mate. Spend the money on her instead.
The 29.5 simply isn't configured for it. The windlass won't fit anywhere easily. How hard can it be to haul in the anchor, perhaps with the help of First Mate. Spend the money on her instead.
Anchoring is best done as a team. I (the partner with the big muscles) sit at the bow and give hand and arm signals and pull in slack rode as my wife (the one with all the brains) slowly motors forward and steers toward the direction I indicate. As the anchor rode goes straight up and down I cleat off the rode and the boats forward motion pulls free the anchor.
As others have said, unless you are anchoring in 100+ feet of water with all chain rode you only have to lift the anchor and a length of rode that is the water depth + freeboard.
As others have said, unless you are anchoring in 100+ feet of water with all chain rode you only have to lift the anchor and a length of rode that is the water depth + freeboard.
Lloyd, ya have to understand how the forum works. If, say, you want more information for whatever need, you post your plea. Then you will probably get these three responses (in no particular order) "Why do you want to do that", or "You shouldn't do that", or "Here's what I did", none addressing your original plea for knowledge. Then Stu will refer you to a Catalina link and close by saying "It's your boat, your choice". After some other replies, Maine Sail will come along like the guy with a shovel behind the elephants and clean up all the C*** that's been disbursed along the way. You may or may not get the needed answer, may or may not get a factual answer- but you'll still have to figure out which is which.
My two cents.
I've always considered the question, "any body got any experence on....." to mean "Help me understand what I'm getting into cause I have not a clew (or possably even a tack)"
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