Windlass foot switch

[kbgunn]

I have a Simpson Lawrence vertical windlass with Lewmar deck mounted foot switches for up and down. The red and black rubber inserts are cracked and it's just a matter of time before water/dirt infiltrate and make them in operable. Anyone know where/how to order replacements for the rubber insert? Or do I have to order an entire new switch? This specific model is phased out, so to replace the whole switch I think I have to order an adapter plate and a new SX model switch. Pain! It would be nice to just replace the rubber insert if possible. Anyone know a source?

These are the adapter and new model switch if I have to go that route:

Lewmar Deck Switch Adapter Plate - 45005199

Lewmar Deck Switch Adapter Plate Features: Use with Lewmar new-style 69000352 and 69000353 switches when replacing old-style Lewmar foot switches 69000016 and 69000017 Bezel matches / fits under original deck footprint

www.defender.com

Lewmar Windlass Deck Foot Switches

Lewmar Windlass Foot Switch Features: Console mount switch for use as additional switch station Compatible with Lewmar electric windlasses running on 12 or 24V DC Hinged cover to prevent accidental operation Ready to install Requires

www.defender.com

I found part number (LEWP49C) in a manual on the Marlow-Hunter document repository here: https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-co...wrence_Sprint 1000 Anchor Windlass Manual.pdf

I found a guide to identify foot switch model here:

https://www.lewmar.com/sites/default/files/Deck%20Switch%20Identifcation_0.pdf

 

[sail sfbay]

When I replaced my Lewmar electric winch switch, which had a uv damaged cover, I had to purchase a new switch. So I am guessing you will need to do the same.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I would guess that no mfg. is going to supply only the rubber inserts for a particular switch so it's on to a new one.

I would also suggest a modicum of maintenance and cleaning to avoid such $$$ problems in the future. A vinyl/rubber sealer would also go miles towards preventing degradation of all rubber/vinyl on your boat.

 

[senang]

If you replace it with a wireless remote switch you will save many $$$$$. Search on EB for winch remote, between $10 and 15, mostly sold for terrain vehicles. Reliability is less, always keep a spare battery

 

[kbgunn]

I would also suggest a modicum of maintenance and cleaning to avoid such $$$ problems in the future. A vinyl/rubber sealer would also go miles towards preventing degradation of all rubber/vinyl on your boat.

Ralph,

Point taken on the maintenance.....I bought the boat this past December and the PO did not keep up the small detail work of cleaning and protecting the susceptible parts. She is mechanically sound with a good survey and I got a great deal on her. So I'm happy to address the small things as I can. Thanks for the tip on the trim and plastic restorer. I will pick up a bottle of that on my next trip to Walmart

 

[kbgunn]

If you replace it with a wireless remote switch you will save many $$$$$. Search on EB for winch remote, between $10 and 15, mostly sold for terrain vehicles. Reliability is less, always keep a spare battery

Great suggestion Senang....I would love a wireless remote for the autopilot too.

The wireless winch remotes on Ebay look like low current devices......are the meant to engage a higher current relay? Is it wired in parallel with the foot switch to the same relay?

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

You may (but only if you're very religious, tithe heavily, and attend every Sunday) be able to remove and salvage the two rubber diaphragms and replace.

If the construction lets you get that far, be sure to lightly seal the rear of the diaphragms with silicone sealant.

My Lewmar UP and DOWN switches were pathetic out of the box when I got them. Sealed them with silicone and no leaks or shorts so far in eight tears.

 

[chuckwayne]

I have a Simpson Lawrence vertical windlass with Lewmar deck mounted foot switches for up and down. The red and black rubber inserts are cracked and it's just a matter of time before water/dirt infiltrate and make them in operable. Anyone know where/how to order replacements for the rubber insert? Or do I have to order an entire new switch? This specific model is phased out, so to replace the whole switch I think I have to order an adapter plate and a new SX model switch. Pain! It would be nice to just replace the rubber insert if possible. Anyone know a source?

These are the adapter and new model switch if I have to go that route:

Lewmar Deck Switch Adapter Plate - 45005199

Lewmar Deck Switch Adapter Plate Features: Use with Lewmar new-style 69000352 and 69000353 switches when replacing old-style Lewmar foot switches 69000016 and 69000017 Bezel matches / fits under original deck footprint

www.defender.com

Lewmar Windlass Deck Foot Switches

Lewmar Windlass Foot Switch Features: Console mount switch for use as additional switch station Compatible with Lewmar electric windlasses running on 12 or 24V DC Hinged cover to prevent accidental operation Ready to install Requires

www.defender.com

I found part number (LEWP49C) in a manual on the Marlow-Hunter document repository here: https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/Vendor-Manuals/Simpson Lawrence_Sprint 1000 Anchor Windlass Manual.pdf

I found a guide to identify foot switch model here:

https://www.lewmar.com/sites/default/files/Deck%20Switch%20Identifcation_0.pdf

View attachment 192446

same problem on our 356, and I couldn't find just the rubber inserts. I got the switches from Defender, will install in a few weeks when the shrink wrap comes off. I compared the new to old switches and I don't see the need for the adapter plates - switches are the same size and my holes for the wires are small.

 

[flightlead404]

I just saw this. It looks like an easy part to print in TPU if you know anyone with a 3D printer. Cost of a 1kg roll of TPU around $30. SainSmart is the best imho

 

[senang]

If you replace it with a wireless remote switch you will save many $$$$$. Search on EB for winch remote, between $10 and 15, mostly sold for terrain vehicles. Reliability is less, always keep a spare battery

You get what you pay for. Just found out 2 days ago that the remote didn’t work. Changed the 12V ! battery. Still no good. Just ordered a reliable marine grade foot switch. Lesson learnt: “Reliability has a price”.

 

[JoeWhite]

I installed 85AMP contact with 12v coil relays used on golf carts and ran a wire to the Binnacle with a spring loaded toggle switch to drop and retrieve the anchor. You can install another such switch placed at the anchor locker. It will last forever.

 

[nbender182]

kbgunn
Did you ever come up with a solution? I'm having the same issue with a 45cc I recently bought. I ordered replacement boots from sailboatowners but they weren't the correct ones. They agreed they were wrong and would get back with me if they had access to the correct ones, but that was December 15th. The ones I need have a contact that goes on it's bottom side.

 

[kbgunn]

kbgunn
Did you ever come up with a solution? I'm having the same issue with a 45cc I recently bought. I ordered replacement boots from sailboatowners but they weren't the correct ones. They agreed they were wrong and would get back with me if they had access to the correct ones, but that was December 15th. The ones I need have a contact that goes on it's bottom side.

No I haven't unfortunately.....other than buying the replacement switch linked above. I'm mostly a day sailer and anchor infrequently so this has been way down on the maintenance priority list. It's interesting that there is a metal contact in the rubber boot that completes the switch circuit. Not the way I would have designed it. I would have expected a momentary contact, push button style switch with the boot as just a dust cover.

 

[artboas]

You may (but only if you're very religious, tithe heavily, and attend every Sunday) be able to remove and salvage the two rubber diaphragms and replace.

If the construction lets you get that far, be sure to lightly seal the rear of the diaphragms with silicone sealant.

My Lewmar UP and DOWN switches were pathetic out of the box when I got them. Sealed them with silicone and no leaks or shorts so far in eight tears.

It’s really very simple.
You need to replace the 2 foot switches with new ones.
we’re looking at 40 bucks here guys, and the problem is solved 100%.
sorry to be so direct, but this doesn’t need a whole lot of head scratching.