Who made this waste tank for the 1989 Hunter 30?

[plenny7]

Many of the tanks that I'm looking at have the openings on the side, not the top.

You can get a tank from Ronco with no holes at all. That gives you the ability to cut your own holes where you want.

If you look at my photo, in the lower right is a plug fitting. I made the mistake of having them put threaded fittings in the same location as the original fittings. The problem was, if I used their fittings the elbows would stand out too high to fit in my space.

I considered a shorter tank with more frequent pump outs but hated the thought of that, and the thought of wasting the $250 tank I already had.

Ultimately I plugged the holes, turned the tank around, and used the fittings I described above.

Personally, I'd avoid side mounted fittings if possible. It will either reduce your effective capacity or allow waste to sit in the hoses if the level gets high enough.

 

[plenny7]

Not the best way to do that 'cuz it made the diptube impossible to remove without also removing the Uniseal. Make the diptube long enough to stick out high enough able the tank enough to attach a 90 if you need one...make it a little longer to use as a straight hose fitting. I hope you did use a dip tube long enough to touch the bottom, cut at about a 25 degree angle. Any flatter, undissolved solids or TP can get caught under it...any sharper leaves too much in the tank.
--Peggie

Peggie, if I understand you correctly, you're talking about pushing the diptube itself into the Uniseal? I think that would be harder to remove than what I did. To pull the diptube out in that example you'd have to overcome the friction fit for the entire length of the diptube.

With the flange fitting I used, the portion of the flange which is pressed into the Uniseal is only an inch to an inch and a half, so there's much less length to pull out through the Uniseal as the diptube would have no friction.

Perhaps there's a misunderstanding, or I didn't describe my installation well because in both cases...as I understand them...something would have to be pulled out of the Uniseal and in my installation, that length is much less.

Of course I cut my diptube at 25 degrees and press it all the way to the bottom, I have your book and have read your many posts on the matter in the research leading up to this project. We had our first pump out last weekend and I watched the tank as they pumped. It appears that just over a half inch was left behind, but after two water flushes and pumps, it turned from yellow to clear.

 

[clamrock]

Update time.

Peggie - We purchased your book this past winter - it's really great! We tried everything to get the odor out.

We (my wife) decided we were going to build a tank.

I purchased a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/8" Polypropylene, 4 lbs of 3/16" dia PP welding rod, and a plastic welder from Amazon.

I used the old tank as a template - but made it an inch wider and 4 inches taller. I gained about 5 gallons by the increase in size. The picture you see is the tank holding water after I welded the 1st 5 pieces together. After that I finished cutting and welding everything together. If anyone is interested I learned a few things along the way that would really help if I ever did it again. To install the hoses I used the Uniseals that Peggie suggested. I cut 3 holes in the top of the tank and ran all of the hoses in. So far so good. I've got the tank 1/2 full of water and we have been sailing. So far no leaks. I'll keep filling it until it's full just to make sure there are no leaks anywhere. I have to say - I think it's pretty well sealed.

I spent more money on this project than I would have spent buying a Ronco tank - but I'll have a working tank a couple of weeks earlier this way... I guess with our short sailing season in MI it was worth the work - a lot of work.

Thanks again for the ideas/help!