Whisker pole questions

[Gene Neill]

We have a 6-12' whisker pole which has a clip on the inboard end and a spike on the outboard end. The joint where the two sections of pole join are on the outboard end.

This seems wrong on multiple levels. Having the adjustment on the outboard end means you have to disconnect the pole from the mast and pull it toward you to adjust it. Doing this almost always results in the spike coming out of the clew, and the poking, jabbing, harpooning festival begins anew.

I want to replace the spike with a clip, turn the pole around, and put the adjustment end toward the mast. But SURELY there is a reason Forespar made it this way, and I'm just too dumb to understand it and use it properly? Then again, the whisker poles I see on bigger boats have hooks on both ends!
So who is the dumb one? Me, or this whisker pole??

 

[kappykaplan]

Gene, can you post a photo or two of what you've got? I'm having a hard time picturing your set up. Tks.

 

[Gene Neill]

I'll get a picture of it tomorrow

 

[shemandr]

Does the pole extend via twist lock or by lines?
I think you can remove the spike fitting and replace it with a jaw fitting. Usually by drilling out a couple of rivets. You just need to know the ID of the pole tube. It's worth the time to consider the best configuration of the jaws. I've seen different configurations on various boats. The sail jaw should release down as, unlike a spinnaker, the jib wants to fall out. The mast side works better snapping it down on the ring than trying to push it up onto the ring.
Some boats do an end for end jibe and others collapse the pole and swing it through the forestay. I like the collapse except with a twist lock pole. Most boats I've sailed on put the pole jaw on the sheet near the clew rather than in the eye loop of the sheet. The latter is more secure but more difficult to achieve. You can always push the pole forward if it drifts aft.

 

[Gene Neill]

Does the pole extend via twist lock or by lines?

Good question! Twist lock.

 

[fred1diver]

You could always drill out the rivets and switch them around

 

[jssailem]

I have the same pole. It is the original style as you describe. There is a procedure to handle this style of pole. IT will take some rigging set up.

The new designs move the control lines inboard and use clips on each end. I thought I’ll just buy a new pole. The price tag shut that idea down. Maybe there is a used one for sale.

I asked Forespar if I could replace the spike end with a newer clip end. The response was “not without considerable modification. The clip design ends are not the same size as the spike insert.” I have not pursued it further. Looking at the process I suspect it can be done but would need tools and some patience. Perhaps this winter will provide such time.

 

[Gene Neill]

@jssailem that checks out. The ends are not riveted on, they are swaged. Replacing them will require some creativity, and some luck in finding fittings of the correct diameter.

 

[Davidasailor26]

@jssailem that checks out. The ends are not riveted on, they are swaged. Replacing them will require some creativity, and some luck in finding fittings of the correct diameter.

That does look annoying. Mine has jaws on both ends, and we always put the joint at the mast end. We learned quickly that’s a lot easier than trying to hang overboard to extend the pole.

But SURELY there is a reason Forespar made it this way,

Unfortunately I wouldn’t put that much confidence in Forespar’s engineering. Ours is pretty finicky trying to open and close, especially when water gets on the seals. It seems like it forms suction and pressure inside the tube. I’ve not been impressed.

 

[Rick Webb]

@jssailem that checks out. The ends are not riveted on, they are swaged. Replacing them will require some creativity, and some luck in finding fittings of the correct diameter.

Not sure it's swaged on

In the second picture it looks like there maybe a pin that holds the nylon piece in the tube similar to the way Sunfish masts and booms are manufactured. There is proba

If it is swaged on just cut it off at the swage and put a new whatever sort of end you want on. Loosing 3/8" of length is typically not an issue.

If you can't find an end to fit that portion of the tube rivet on a section matching the other end and use a matching hook.

 

[Gene Neill]

If you can't find an end to fit that portion of the tube, rivet on a section matching the other end and use a matching hook.

Hey now! I had not thought of that. If I can find a replacement hook for this model of pole, I'll be in business! I could just cut a few inches off the end with the swaged hook, and rivet that assembly onto the spike end. Then rivet a new hook into the end I cut, and Bob's my uncle.

You're a genius.

There are definitely no pins or rivets in this whisker pole. I kept looking for them for years. haha

 

[LakeShark]

I too have the same pole and my issue is usually it collapsing while under load. I asked a bunch of other C22 sailors about it and most now make their own poles that are a bit thicker at a fixed length for far less than the cost of a new pole. Some store them up the mast while others on the deck. I know you can find generic clip ends if you're willing to go that route. Shoot you might even be able to sell your pole to partially cover the cost.

 

[Gene Neill]

I too have the same pole and my issue is usually it collapsing while under load.

That's one problem I have not had (yet), nor has strength been an issue. Just PITA factor. We store our whisker pole on the mast ... on a related note, I would like to find a really good way to store a boat hook on the lifelines/stanchions. These tools aren't much good when you need them RIGHT NOW, but they are down in the cavern under the port side cockpit bench. LOL

 

[Hello Below]

on a related note, I would like to find a really good way to store a boat hook on the lifelines/stanchions.

Practical Sailor - how to keep boat hooks within easy reach

 

[Richard19068]

There are definitely no pins or rivets in this whisker pole. I kept looking for them for years. haha

The replacement end kit from Forespar seems to imply the ends are epoxied on

End Fitting Kit with Epoxy & Pad Eye for ADJ 6-12ft Whisker Poles

? If you put clips or hooks on both ends of a twist lock pole will there be any issues with the ends not being in the proper orientation when the pole decides to lock up ? On second thought, if that was a problem I suppose you could mitigate it with soft shackles. emily litella never mind - Search Videos

 

[RussC]

That's one problem I have not had (yet), nor has strength been an issue. Just PITA factor. We store our whisker pole on the mast ... on a related note, I would like to find a really good way to store a boat hook on the lifelines/stanchions. These tools aren't much good when you need them RIGHT NOW, but they are down in the cavern under the port side cockpit bench. LOL

On my Mac 25 I installed a piece of (2 1/4"?) aluminum tube for a "holster" into the corner of the cockpit. it's secured by clipping the whisker pole hook over that piece of black bungie cord with ball. the holster tube is tucked into the corner of the cabin roof out of the way. quick and easy to whip out the pole when needed and totally out of the way when it's not. YMMV

 

[R Squared]

The replacement end kit from Forespar seems to imply the ends are epoxied on

End Fitting Kit with Epoxy & Pad Eye for ADJ 6-12ft Whisker Poles

If you put clips or hooks on both ends of a twist lock pole, will there be any issues with the ends not being in the proper orientation when the pole decides to lock up? On second thought, if that was a problem, I suppose you could mitigate it with soft shackles. emily litella never mind - Search Videos

The type of Whisker Poles you are discussing and have posted pictures of have a tubing diameter and wall thickness, along with the black plastic endfittings intended for boats under 20ft in length and no more than 1,000 pounds displacement. On larger boats, the plastic endfittings are the weak link.

The first thing to mention is that these adjustable whisker poles are designed with the larger tube as the inboard end, which is attached to the mast.

The Forespar part number is 406000 for the type with the spike outboard and the piston latch at the inboard end. Part number 406100 will include spring-loaded latches at each end of the Whisker Pole. Again, the larger diameter tube is the end of the whisker pole that attaches to the mast.

Pictured is the endfitting repair kit, #300027. The one endfitting that is attached to the short PC of the alum tube is intended to convert a 406000 latch-spike into a latch-latch, 406100. That is the only reason that the epoxy is included in the kit.

Endfitting attachment: Forespar uses a pipe-cutter set to a shallow depth and puts the ring that you see going around the aluminum tube into a corresponding groove in the molded plastic end. That is how the end fittings are held in place. A new endfitting can be held in place by using a couple of small pop rivets or a couple of self-tapping screws. Any epoxy glue tends to get in the spring cavity, and then the piston will no longer move. If anyone wants to look over the PDFs for these whisker poles or has any other questions, you can use sts2@forespar for answers. Been doing this since 1988.

 

[JBP-PA]

Having the adjustment on the outboard end means you have to disconnect the pole from the mast and pull it toward you to adjust it.

My pole has clips on both ends, but you still have to remove it from the mast to adjust the twist-lock because the clips don't spin. But at least the spike doesn't come out of the sail.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Again, the larger diameter tube is the end of the whisker pole that attaches to the mast.

Is there any reason the wider diameter side is meant to be at the mast? It’s a lot easier to adjust the length with the smaller diameter side at the mast, especially with the larger poles that are three segments. From the standpoint of forces and torque it seems like they’d be interchangeable.