Where to find T-Ball Eye for CDI furler install

Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
I tried to order a new forestay for my 23.5 that conforms to the requirements of the CDI furler. The furler requires a toggle at the top of the forestay. I know that some are using this style T-Ball fitting with a toggle:



When I asked the rigger about it, he informed me that this was not the correct part. He explained that this part is intended for a running backstay and that the big loop is not supposed to be secured with a pin. Something about point loads... Anyway, he pointed me to this instead:



Only problem is that he doesn't stock it and can't seem to get one. In fact the only place I can even find it listed is here:

http://www.rigrite.com/Rigging/T-Ball_Fittings.php#T-Ball_Eyes

I asked them for a quote but after a couple of days, they are still "checking their stock". I'm guessing this means they don't have it. Anyone have any idea where I can get one.
 
Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
Got confirmation from rigrite.com that the proper T-Ball fitting isn't available. So as it stands, it's impossible to install the CDI furler on a 23.5 in a way that conforms to the manual without going against the riggers recommendations.. hmm.

I wonder if anyone has ever considered installing a mast hound and eliminating the T-Ball fitting:
upload_2018-8-28_13-39-18.jpeg

With this, I can just terminate the top of the forestay with a conventional toggle. This would have the added benefit of moving the attach point away from the mast making some room for the top of the furler. Thoughts?
 

jviss

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Feb 5, 2004
6,745
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
Would you have enough length if you had someone swage an eye and a t-ball stud together onto a short piece of wire?
 

jviss

.
Feb 5, 2004
6,745
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
Another option is to have one made. If you can find a competent welder of stainless steel, they might cut some off both the eye and the t-ball fitting, put them both on short piece of stainless rod, and weld them together.

Granted the whole thing won't be cheap, but it will be right.

Idea - ask Garhauer if they would be so kind as to make one for you. They provide super customer service, and have the skills.
 
Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
Hmm. Fabricating a T-Ball Eye sounds interesting but would this be any more 'right' than just switching to a mast hound? The mast hound still has the benefit of an offset attach point which would let me keep even more of my luff length.
 
Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
That T-Fork looks interesting. Not sure it's compatible though. Hard to tell from the drawing but check out this picture. The 'T' part doesn't look like the same shape. I'll give them a call to see if they can confirm.
upload_2018-8-29_9-56-1.png
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,236
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I will guess the worry with the loop type fitting is that the point load from the shackle would bend the shaft at the bottom or pull out the shaft at the weld. If your mast hound proves to be an issue or unworkable, you could buy one of the Gib 743-6 terminals and have a weld shop weld on a teardrop shaped flat piece over the open look, with a hole drilled for the appropriate clevis pin or shackle pin. I'd think that would be strong enough.
Not sure if the attachment point of the hound is actually any further out from the mast than you'd have with a ball style terminal, if that is a key advantage you seek. At least, it doesn't appear that way if the hound is right up against the mast.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
My last West 2015-16 catalog, p 972, has a parts numbered 592180/592206/592198. Alexander-Roberts makes them. It's the item on the bottom in post 13.
 
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Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
@Joel. Hey Joel. Thanks for chiming in but now I'm really confused. Are you saying that there's no need for a toggle between the T-Ball fitting and the end of the forestay? The manual is pretty clear that a toggle is required at both ends of the forestay. Perhapse the T-Ball (because of its ability to rotate in place) counts as a toggle?
 
Jun 28, 2018
9
Hunter 23.5 Winnipeg
@PropellerHead Didn't mean to add to the confusion but yes, you don't necessarily need a toggle at the top of the forestay. A T-ball fitting will work just fine at the top. The bottom of the forestay however, absolutely requires a toggle. We're currently working on updating our manuals and this will be one thing that will be clarified.

@jviss Correct, a swaged on T-bar will work best.
 
Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
@jviss. I have a T-Ball at top. This journey stared for me when I came across this thread:

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...r-26-and-cdi-ff2-install.192244/#post-1467666

As you can see, I'm not the only one confused by the instructions. I started out intending to implement the same solution described in this thread but my rigger didn't approve of the style T-Ball used in that thread.

So now it seams that a T-Ball functions as a toggle for the purposes of this application.. However, this leads to a different problem:

According to the manual, I'm supposed to trim the luff extrusion to 12.25 inches shorter than the 'pin to pin' length of my existing forestay. It seems to me that this is no where near short enough. Once the entire furler is assembled, only the top 3 inches of the T-Ball fitting extends past the end of the furler which would prevent any flexing. It's clear to me that the luff extrusion needs to be shortened further. Any thoughts on how much?
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
@PropellerHead
The original forestay was a t ball fitting at top swaged to the forestay and down to a complete turnbuckle body made by Seco South in the Tampa, FL area. I recently sailed on an early 23.5 I sold with the original set up to include forestay and CDI FF2 furler. This has worked well for all my boats and remember I introduced the 23.5. Never had any failures. I am not really sure why the added hardware as you will also need to have the forestay shortened as well if you go that route. Sometimes the forestay will detach from the mast but only when either putting up or taking the mast down. To prevent that from happening I always taught everyone to keep the furler against the front portion of the mast (make sure you do not touch the mast raising pole when lowering/raising).

Did not know if you are installing a CDI FF2 system or not. However the manual I posted earlier this year can be seen under the Hunter 260 downloads under boat information. Suggest that you put the furler with drum together laying on the ground and place the forestay against it to give you some idea and also measure the sail luff as well. Feel free to contact me
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Except if you expect the tBall to swivel in it's socket, it will wear open up the socket. Someone on this forum had that happen. Better to have two-way toglles top and bottom.