Hunter 26 and CDI FF2 install

Fred · Jul 3, 2018

Sounds like the same configuration that I have. At the top end I have the same fitting as the shrouds (I guess that’s called T-Ball fitting). At the bottom end it is a more squared of T fitting, the same as the shrouds. ( toggle fitting?). I’ll be at the boat later so I’ll snap a pic if I remember.

Fred · Jul 3, 2018

I checked the T-ball and toggle nomenclature on google and seem to have used it correctly on my previous post.

Fred · Jul 3, 2018

Ok. Here are some pics. The only clarification I need to make is that th shroud toggle is not actually pressed into the shroud (wire) it is used below the turn buckle as shown in the pic. Not sure the upper forestay pic is high enough resolution to see the T-Ball.

rgranger · Jul 3, 2018

Mine is also set up like yours. T on top, toggle on bottom

caverun · Jul 4, 2018

Unfortunately if you want a toggle at the top of your forestay to avoid flexing and damaging the wire you will need a new forestay. I did that when I installed a new furler (Snapfurl) on my H240. Seco South made it, and cost about $80 shipped. Phone is 727-536-1924, contact is Jean. Photos attached.
Here are the parts they used to make it up (for 5/32 wire), in case it helps:
T-ring N74305
Toggle jaw rigging, 5/32 wire, 5/16 pin RTJ0510
5/32 stud swage, 1/4 thread SWS0508

isaksp00 · Jul 4, 2018

If your wire is in good shape (not near end of life) you could shorten the existing stay to accommodate the extra length contributed by the eye style T ball fitting. I would not bother if it is not pretty new though. You can buy a swageless eye fitting for the wire, carefully shorten it a bit (it'd be maybe an inch or two), feed the wire through your furler foil (if you have to remove it) and then attach the swageless eye fitting at the top. The swageless fittings are not cheap, and you'd have to buy the eye style T ball as well, so possibly buying a whole set like the above photos from a rigger may be equivalent. One advantage to swageless is they can be removed and reused (except for a wedge inside) if you need to do other repairs, like if your wire breaks or you need some sort of furler repair.

Does your current stay have a swaged threaded stud at the bottom? If so, can you remove it from your old furler (if you have one) or would you have to cut the wire to get it out of the furler extrusion? I would think you may have to adjust the wire length in any case for a new furler, so may have to discard the old fittings anyway (well, at least one end - I suppose if you have to shorten the wire for the CDI you could cut off the swaged stud and add a swageless stud).

rgranger · Jul 4, 2018

On the 26 you have a turn buckle at the base. I simply spun off the turn buckle and slipped the stay out of the foil?

isaksp00 · Jul 4, 2018

I think it would depend on the furler model. My 23 has a Harken furler that is in itself the turnbuckle - the stay has a threaded stud at the bottom that screws into the top of the furler mechanism, and there is a stainless tang attached to the chain plate that has a toggle at the top and a threaded rod that screws into the bottom of the furler. You turn the furler outer drum to tighten it up. So that type needs to have the stay shortened a good foot or more to handle the spacing that the tangs and furler mechanism occupy. The CDI may be designed to slide over the existing stay, using the existing turnbuckle to hold the stay.

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 4, 2018

@caverun explained why the better T ball swivel is preferred and the contact person as well at SECO South. I have known Jean for nearly 35 years and knows her product which made the orginal standing rigging for all the boats mentioned here. Masts different but all standing rigging came from Seco South. The photo on the bottom of the furling drum is correct but make sure the face where the furlring line exits is not chaffing against the face which if it is the drum can be turned by unscrewing the two screws and realigning the furling drum.

Many thanks to CAVERUN

Doug J · Jul 4, 2018

jbreland said:
Just bought a new CDI FF2 to install on my hunter 26 and something in the CDI instructions have me confused.. The instructions say there must be a toggle on both ends of the forestay,
and show a toggle on both ends in the diagram. However the h26 forestay has a toggle on the bottom of the forestay below the turnbuckle and a T-Ball fitting swaged on at the top of the forestay. I can't see any reason this would cause a problem, other than the t-balls age old problem of wanting to twist or even come out of the slot when stepping the mast. but don't want to overlook anything.. Thoughs, inputs ????

James

My H26 has a stem ball fitting at the top. Is that what you have?
Here's a link to a thread I started when I was replacing my double sheave box where the stem ball connects. There are some pics that may help clarify. BTW: mine has a large screw in the mast just above the stem ball, that keeps it from coming out when stepping the mast. Would recommend adding that if you don't have it already.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/h26-mast-head-sail-double-sheave-box.187691/

I installed a CDI FF2 on my 91' Macgregor 26S. I ended up getting a new head-stay made and had a toggle at the top and bottom as the installation instructions specify. I think if I were you, I'd get a new head-stay made to allow the stem-ball connection with a toggle. Or a fitting such as a swagged eye fitting. Some kind of fitting that would give you the other axis pivot point. In any case, you should follow the CDI installation instructions. You don't want to end up with a dis-masting some day.

Here's a pic of my Mac 26S, you can see the toggle that allows the head-stay to move preventing stress on the wire.

As you can see I cut the foil long enough so that the black top cap fitting swiveled on the swagged eye fitting. My theory was that would also help prevent stress on the wire as the foil rotated.

My H26 has a Schaefer Snapfurl CF700 that has a ball bearing upper swivel, so no worries about stressing the wire.

caverun · Jul 5, 2018

This old thread summarizes the issue pretty well-
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/demasted-check-your-forestay.121337/

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 5, 2018

@caverun Thank you for that. Often many do not look in the archives requiring the conversations again. Now you are a teacher or expert. Many thanks young man.

isaksp00 · Jul 5, 2018

I have a Harken on my 23, and I did add a toggle, for the exact reasons noted in that older thread. I have a fitting with a clevis pin for an eye at the mast top, not a t-ball, but I could see that the angle of the eye when it was fully down against the mast did not have the wire in line with the eye - thus causing at least some stress on the wire as it exited the fitting. The toggle should ease that.

isaksp00 · Jul 5, 2018

On my boat, there would be some stress even after the mast is up. That is because the wire stay when tight exits the eye fitting at a small angle if I have no toggle, pressing more on one side of the wire, which would be slightly bent as it exits the eye fitting. The toggle lets the fitting swing so it points directly at the chain plate in the bow, thus the wire pulls straight out from the eye fitting.

rgranger · Jul 5, 2018

jbreland said:
.....
i know there is a lot of you out there that have a furler so who has and who does not have the extra toggle at the top?

I only have a toggle at the bottom

Hunter 26 and CDI FF2 install

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