Where the rubber meets the road

[sailme88]

Ahoy fellow sailors. This IS the definitive site to get the true feed back to any question. Accordingly I have a question that requires your experience. For many years I have used a professional detail buffer on my hull sides. As I ( ahem) get older I find that for some reason the buffer has gotten heavier... I have seen a buffer that is supposedly made for the boating industry. It is made by Shurhold. My question is: Do any of you have any experience with this unit? And your unabashed assessment ?

Thanks,

Rick

 

[dlochner]

Ahoy fellow sailors. This IS the definitive site to get the true feed back to any question. Accordingly I have a question that requires your experience. For many years I have used a professional detail buffer on my hull sides. As I ( ahem) get older I find that for some reason the buffer has gotten heavier... I have seen a buffer that is supposedly made for the boating industry. It is made by Shurhold. My question is: Do any of you have any experience with this unit? And your unabashed assessment ?

Thanks,

Rick

I doubt there is anything special about them. Go to several hardware stores and lift a few different 7" angle grinder/buffers. Pick the one that feels easiest to use and easiest on the wallet.

Years ago I read an article about buffing where the buffer was suspended from the lifelines with a block and some line. At one end of the line was the buffer at the other end a weight that was a little lighter than the buffer. The only wait the boat owner had to support was the difference between the weight and the buffer.

 

[PGUTIERREZ]

Great idea using hang line. Hope to remember four months from now.

 

[sailme88]

Great idea using hang line. Hope to remember four months from now.

The Shurhold unit has a D handle that could easily accommodate some sort of suspension.. My buffer would probably suck the line in...

 

[jssailem]

I find that for some reason the buffer has gotten heavier...

It would appear that the suggested counter weight idea would help to address the weight of the buffer in action. I found it a great idea, even though I have not yet attacked (polished) the aging topsides of my boat.

My question for @sailme88, Could this be a Waxy Buildup on your hardware adding the weight and not really an age thing.

 

[Michael Davis]

Could this be a Waxy Buildup on your hardware adding the weight and not really an age thing.

We should be so lucky!!! Every year I find pounds turning to Kilograms and not just because I live in Canada.

 

[FastOlson]

Borrow or rent a compressor and use an air-operated buffer. Small and lighter.

 

[PGUTIERREZ]

B4 boat cleaning & waxing, need to get rid of that new dam elbow bursitis by April! Suggestions? Beside ibuprofin + Cortisone injection?

 

[dmax]

I also find it's getting later a lot earlier these days

 

[TomY]

I see people struggling in the boatyard with buffers. I find their problem isn't the tool so much as where they work from. Usually they work from the ground, sometimes a step ladder, but usually their tool is too high.

If I was going to buff my topsides, I'd hold the buffer at the most comfortable working height - standing on the ground, and measure the distance from the tool to the ground. I'd use that number to devise the height of a simple staging that would place my hands and tool in the middle of the work area on the topsides.

It may look like a lot of work but it's not in comparison to holding a heavy tool over your head, or shifting block and tackle counterweight arrangements around.

The last time I rolled and tipped the topsides of my 38'er, friends buffed the hull of a 24 sailboat. They spent two short days (couldn't take anymore pain!) going around the hull with no more than a rickety step ladder. My daughter and I rolled and tipped the 38' in 4, easy hours.

You wouldn't need this length of staging to buff a hull, but I might do it anyway as it's easier to set up a full area as opposed to setting and re-setting short sections.

Move your staging from one side to the other as needed (BTW, that's the 24'er next door).

 

[dlochner]

@TomY 's scaffolding is a bit more elaborate than mine, however he is rolling and tipping and paint waits for no man or woman.

A simpler solution is 2 step ladders with a 2x12 between them. This can get a bit bouncy if the board is too long. I built a more substantial plank using ½" plywood and a couple of 2x4s. It is solid and can be used as a workbench as well as scaffolding.

 

[BlowMeAway]

The easiest approach to freeboard/hull buffing that I’ve found, using the 9” Makita, is to use this portable scaffolding from Wally World...and then hire my thug of a Brother-in-law, to help do the job.

Pro-Series 6' Multipurpose Scaffolding - Walmart.com

Buy Pro-Series 6' Multipurpose Scaffolding at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

 

[TomY]

@TomY 's scaffolding is a bit more elaborate than mine, however he is rolling and tipping and paint waits for no man or woman.

A simpler solution is 2 step ladders with a 2x12 between them. This can get a bit bouncy if the board is too long. I built a more substantial plank using ½" plywood and a couple of 2x4s. It is solid and can be used as a workbench as well as scaffolding.

View attachment 174207

Step ladders are versatile staging. From my building biz. I keep structural aluminum staging. They make some very light aluminum planks these days with various spans that work well on two step ladders (just be careful you stay under the max. load of the ladders of course).

I realize the second photo of staging around my boat was to strip and varnish the toe rails. I've seen so many DIY's working on their toe rails from ondeck, on their knees. Too painful!

For many boats you can set up simple staging and planks to allow working both sides (inboard-outboard) of the toe rail from a comfortable standing height.

Rolling,....:

...and tipping mine.

 

[MitchM]

i've used an old searscraftsman double handle buffer with a support line suspended from a carabiner running thru my lifelines. also use a ladder that folds into a horizontal painters' platform, or an upside down v , not a regular ladder. it's a miserable job however you do it.

 

[Mak41]

I see people struggling in the boatyard with buffers. I find their problem isn't the tool so much as where they work from. Usually they work from the ground, sometimes a step ladder, but usually their tool is too high.

If I was going to buff my topsides, I'd hold the buffer at the most comfortable working height - standing on the ground, and measure the distance from the tool to the ground. I'd use that number to devise the height of a simple staging that would place my hands and tool in the middle of the work area on the topsides.

It may look like a lot of work but it's not in comparison to holding a heavy tool over your head, or shifting block and tackle counterweight arrangements around.

The last time I rolled and tipped the topsides of my 38'er, friends buffed the hull of a 24 sailboat. They spent two short days (couldn't take anymore pain!) going around the hull with no more than a rickety step ladder. My daughter and I rolled and tipped the 38' in 4, easy hours.

You wouldn't need this length of staging to buff a hull, but I might do it anyway as it's easier to set up a full area as opposed to setting and re-setting short sections.

View attachment 174204

Move your staging from one side to the other as needed (BTW, that's the 24'er next door).
View attachment 174206

Having sided my house using scaffolding, I'll agree that it's hard to beat the safety and comfort factors. Compared to using a ladder. Scaffolding wins hands down. Setting up the scaffolding is well worth the time and I would not encourage the boards-n-ladders configuration.
Now, having that experience, I would certainly use scaffolding for repairs and other long term projects up high. Maybe rolling and tipping too because there's some exchange of equipment in hand and being up close affords better visuals. And, moving over a ladder every two square feet is a p.i.a. But, I wouldn't do it for buffing. Not until I try the counterweighted suspension method first. I can see a slight issue jumping the loop or trolly, over a stansion to the next section of lifeline but that doesn't sound like it'd be too bad.

 

[JIvories]

I do not recommend the Shurhold. I've been polishing my boat for 6 years every Spring, following the best advice I could find from Practical Sailors, SailboatOwners and Sailnet fora. The oxydization wasn't terrible, but I did have to compound before polishing. I couldn't get it to shine. I asked the owner of the boatyard to give me a lesson. He took my polish, and his Makita, and made it look easy. So I bought a Makita, and ever since have gotten a beautiful shine on my 36 yr old S2. Not perfect, but very satisfying. I believe the Shurhold just doesn't have the power.

Haven't used a scaffold yet, and have paid the price physically! I'll definitely try one of the scaffold methods described above next time.

 

[Mak41]

I do not recommend the Shurhold. I've been polishing my boat for 6 years every Spring, following the best advice I could find from Practical Sailors, SailboatOwners and Sailnet fora. The oxydization wasn't terrible, but I did have to compound before polishing. I couldn't get it to shine. I asked the owner of the boatyard to give me a lesson. He took my polish, and his Makita, and made it look easy. So I bought a Makita, and ever since have gotten a beautiful shine on my 36 yr old S2. Not perfect, but very satisfying. I believe the Shurhold just doesn't have the power.

Haven't used a scaffold yet, and have paid the price physically! I'll definitely try one of the scaffold methods described above next time.

Not enough power as in... r.p.m.'s?