The jib fair-lead is located so when the jib line is tightened it rubs against the gunwale. Where should I relocate it?
Where do I put the jib fairlead?
- Thread starter Sailing all day long
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Hello
Would you consider putting a square/rectangle of starboard under the fairlead? You could incorporate that change with a rebedding project and check/replace the backer plate or fender washers at the same time.
Another option might be to use a stand-up block (I can't remember the correct name for them). It is the kind that has a plate at the base and a spring to hold it up when there is no tension on the line through it.
Either of those options could result in toe stubbers so some thought as to the value of a change is time well spent.
Respectfully, Phil
Would you consider putting a square/rectangle of starboard under the fairlead? You could incorporate that change with a rebedding project and check/replace the backer plate or fender washers at the same time.
Another option might be to use a stand-up block (I can't remember the correct name for them). It is the kind that has a plate at the base and a spring to hold it up when there is no tension on the line through it.
Either of those options could result in toe stubbers so some thought as to the value of a change is time well spent.
Respectfully, Phil
The jiblead location should be based on sail trim optimization. Once that is determined, you can figure out how to route the sheet to the winch..... in your picture... it's difficult to see the overall realtionshiop between lead and winch location. One solution is to install a turning block a few foot or two behind the jib lead, so the sheet has a clear run to the winch. Another solution would be to relocate the winch.
If it were my boat, I would install a short track... say 24 inches, with at least 6 adjusment holes for a sliding jib lead car.... since the lead is so close the winch I would use the turning block technique to re route the sheet aft, then back forward for a clean run to the winch.
In your picture it looks like the sheet is wrapped numerous times around the winch and then tied off in front of it... is that how you secure your sheet? That is a dangerous way to manage your sheets. You should be quite effective with 3 to 5 wraps... then lead th sheet to a cleat... the tail is coiled and stowed neatly...
If it were my boat, I would install a short track... say 24 inches, with at least 6 adjusment holes for a sliding jib lead car.... since the lead is so close the winch I would use the turning block technique to re route the sheet aft, then back forward for a clean run to the winch.
In your picture it looks like the sheet is wrapped numerous times around the winch and then tied off in front of it... is that how you secure your sheet? That is a dangerous way to manage your sheets. You should be quite effective with 3 to 5 wraps... then lead th sheet to a cleat... the tail is coiled and stowed neatly...
From this pic http://www.sailingtexas.com/slaguna22100.html, it looks like the boat is supposed to have t tracks/ jib lead pulleys. The bullseye fairlead in your pic might be for a furling line?
From the condition of the hull, I'd say you and me be mates. No deep pockets on my watch. So dropping $200 on jib cars probably isn't going to happen. Plus, there probably isn't any room anyway. I couldn't put them on my Lancer 25.
How about a stand up block? Ebay for about 25 bucks. Normally, fairleads are not for lines changing direction under load like that. (I think) It's probably intended for the furler line.
How about a stand up block? Ebay for about 25 bucks. Normally, fairleads are not for lines changing direction under load like that. (I think) It's probably intended for the furler line.
I found this picture of a Laguna 22...... http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/23527# look at the last pic on the right....is it like yours... meaning are there two tracks on the toe rail, with spring loaded blocks mounted on track sliders?
I agree with dscribner in his assesment that the bullet fairlead is not for the jibsheet.... I won't credit Merlinuxo because he called it a "pulley" instead of a block.... heh,heh
So it sounds like you might have some equipment missing.
You can raise the height of your current block by replacing the connecting shackle with a longer one....... you can also purchase stand up SPRINGS separately, without buying a complete new block... they're about a buck a piece http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=50045&subdeptNum=50057&classNum=50066
I agree with dscribner in his assesment that the bullet fairlead is not for the jibsheet.... I won't credit Merlinuxo because he called it a "pulley" instead of a block.... heh,heh
So it sounds like you might have some equipment missing.
You can raise the height of your current block by replacing the connecting shackle with a longer one....... you can also purchase stand up SPRINGS separately, without buying a complete new block... they're about a buck a piece http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=50045&subdeptNum=50057&classNum=50066
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Why do you have so many wraps on that winch? This could be your problem.
All you need is three wraps of the sheet on the winch.
Generally there is some kind of a cleat in back of the winch where you can snub the sheet off.
On my boat, I installed large open clam cleats in back of each winch for snubbing my Gennie sheets. Most boats have horn cleats behind the winches and some guys prefer cam cleats.
I like the open clam cleats because you only need to lay the sheet into the cleat. No special hitches. When you want to release the sheet, you just lift it off the cleat. I took that idea out of a popular boating magazine back in the 1980s called "Small Boat Journal" (out of publication) and some of the guys in my club have adopted the idea and like it.
If that doesn't work, I would remove the fare leads and add some Gennie tracks with cars and single sheaves. The sheaves on the cars are going to be much higher and they should clear the combing.
Here's a picture of my set up.
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Joe,
My originals were teak and worn out so I made new ones out of the PVC lumber that I used for everything else. This pic is from before I drilled the mounting holes or the (forestner bit) recessed holes for the screw heads.
I like the clam cleat idea better but they're already on the boat.....
My originals were teak and worn out so I made new ones out of the PVC lumber that I used for everything else. This pic is from before I drilled the mounting holes or the (forestner bit) recessed holes for the screw heads.
I like the clam cleat idea better but they're already on the boat.....
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My son just gave me a piece of 1" thick PVC foam board and I'm contemplating on using it to make a Mickey Mouse mast extrusion.
I had to cut 2" off the bottom of my mast last summer due to corrosion and I need to make up the difference with something.
PVC FB is being used in boats as a good substitute for plywood.
Last week I made a mast plug out of Trex and I plan on using it, plus a piece of 1/4" Aluminum plate to bare the weight of the mast as part of the extrusion. I don't know if this has ever been done to a sailboat mast before but I intend to do it. I really have no other choice.
A friend of mine has been replacing the Teak on his boat with StarBoard for the past several years.
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