What's the best way to cut a mast

[ppm411]

The holes are worn on the bottom of my mast on my '74 Catalina 22. The plan is to cut an inch off the bottom, gain that inch back with a 1" thick shim between the mast step and the deck. There is also a bevel cut on the bottom of the mast that I will need to re-cut so the mast pivots aft when I'm stepping it.

What is the best way to cut the mast?

I want to be very accurate so the cut is square. The bevel cut is going to be challenging given the angle. I would rather not use a hand hacksaw or reciprocating saw. I've been looking into a compact band-saw for the job but would unfortunately only need it for these couple of cuts. I've ruled out welding of any sort since that's more of a band-aid. Any help, direction, experience that you can share would be great.

THANKS IN ADVANCE. - Paul

 

[Chris Patterson]

I've cut them. I use a four inch grinder with a metal cutoff wheel. TOO easy, five minutes.

If you don't have one, Harbor Freight, about twenty bucks.

(No, my tool is a Snap-On). Many bucks, not necessarily what you need for one job though..

 

[jibes138]

I've cut them. I use a four inch grinder with a metal cutoff wheel. TOO easy, five minutes. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight, about twenty bucks. (No, my tool is a Snap-On). Many bucks, not necessarily what you need for one job though..

how about an oscillating tool with metal cutting blade

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Agree with Chris. That's the way to go. Wrap a piece of paper around it, square up the edges. mark along the edge and cut to that line. Should be dead square.

 

[Tim R.]

I cut my Pearon 28 mast by wrapping a Manila folder around as a guide and a good quality hack saw. Ten minutes for cheap low tech solution.

 

[Charlie13958]

I use a stainless hose clamp for that type of cut.

 

[woodster]

I've cut them. I use a four inch grinder with a metal cutoff wheel. TOO easy, five minutes.

If you don't have one, Harbor Freight, about twenty bucks.

(No, my tool is a Snap-On). Many bucks, not necessarily what you need for one job though..

+ 1

 

[scottr]

I had to cut about an inch off the base of the mast on my Pearson 28 when I bought it. I put a metal cutting blade in my chop saw. I placed the mast on the table up against the fence as if I were cutting an inch off a 2x4.

 

[Ted]

I've done some cuts fitting outhaul castings on the end of a boom the size of your mast using a hand held hacksaw. A new blade will make the job go pretty easy. The progress will be slower than using any power saw, grinder or multi tool but you will be less likely to make a mistake by over cutting or wandering off your proposed cut mark. Cut slightly oversized by about a pencil width and finish with a file. It's a pretty fool proof method and inexpensive.

 

[Afrakes]

I'm with Chris. Measure carefully. Mark clearly. I use blue painters tape. My eyes are getting old. Don't drink three cups of coffee prior to doing this. Two hands on the angle grinder and secure the mast well so it doesn't "walk" on you. It will be an enjoyable and easy task.

 

[Afrakes]

In addition, don't forget the safety glasses and gloves.

 

[Joe]

Aluminum is very easy to work with. I have had good success with a power jigsaw and a metal cutting blade.. you can make a guide to clamp to the mast but even without one, you should be able to follow a line accurately.

I like the chop saw method.... but... there's the expense.

A grinder with a cut off wheel will absolutely work.... but you need to practice working with one... the truth is: a grinder is one of the basic tools you should have in your power tool arsenal.... also a jig saw... so either purchase will give you good value for other projects. You don't need to shell out big bucks for a dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, etc. A corded Skil, black & decker, Ryobi etc. will work for either tool, very inexpensive.

I would also have no problem with a hand held hacksaw... an item you should have in your boat tool box.

What I would avoid is using a "multi tool" They work well for certain things... but not cutting long straight lines in metal.

After the cut, a hand file will clean it up the edge quickly.

 

[Chris Patterson]

That's one of the reasons I don't recommend saws. Too much to 'get away from you' on the backside of the cut...

 

[Capt jgw]

The chop saw will work the easiest if you have access to one. You can set the saw to cut the bevel for you. Use a sharp blade and advance slowly. Eye protection of course, and hearing protection. The noise can wake dead people in China.

 

[ppm411]

Great input from all. Thanks so much. I have an 10" chop saw that I think I'm going to get a metal cutting blade for. I can imagine the bevel cut will go quite nicely that way too - just hoping 50 degrees will be enough. If not, I'll have to add a 4"grinder to my arsenal. The list is still growing for spring!

 

[woodster]

the chop saw is a very good tool to cut aluminum but be warned it is not a tool for the amateur ...first you must have a fine tooth carbide blade,bees wax,safety glasses,gloves, a way to hold it steady and sq .....just use a cut off wheel on a side grinder or a good saber saw ( i like the bosh with a fine cutting metal blade) lay out your cut line on the material and then when you start your cut.... stay focused.... or you will drift ....you have to watch where the blade and the line meet and let your guiding hand follow what your eyes see also use a little oil to lubricate the jig saw blade and keep it running cool ...the same for the cut off wheel on the grinder with out the oil and take your time and be patient ...one more thing Don't put your fingers hand or limbs in the path of the blade....if you practice this advice you will be able to cut with in a 64th of an inch...and as stated above use a flat bastard file to clean up the cut removing all burs and you will be good to go....good luck

 

[Joe Blizzard]

I've done some cuts fitting outhaul castings on the end of a boom the size of your mast using a hand held hacksaw. A new blade will make the job go pretty easy. The progress will be slower than using any power saw, grinder or multi tool but you will be less likely to make a mistake by over cutting or wandering off your proposed cut mark. Cut slightly oversized by about a pencil width and finish with a file. It's a pretty fool proof method and inexpensive.

That's the way I'd go if it was me. I figure that if you had a dozen masts to rework it might be worthwhile to set up an appropriate jig and use a power tool, but for one little ol' cut it's overkill.

 

[Doc_holiday]

Chop saws are ok but you need to be dead sure your mast is square to the blade, both up and down and back to front.

I would mark the line and go with a angle grinder with a cutoff blade, just outside the line and then grind or file down to the line. This allows for any kicks, or mistakes.

Don't go more than an inch. You may have to replace shrouds or go with shorter turnbuckles on shrouds, forestay, backstay etc.

 

[justsomeguy]

That's the way I'd go if it was me. I figure that if you had a dozen masts to rework it might be worthwhile to set up an appropriate jig and use a power tool, but for one little ol' cut it's overkill.

This is true.

Most times, it's easier to just to go the hand tool route on a single cut, than go through the set-up and take-down of a power tool.

But I loves me my power tools.

 

[boatertwo]

I like the chopsaw method...measure twice, cut once...