What would you call it?

[capta]

No info on either the new or old motor.
JininPB, "planetary reduction gearboxes that I have seen used on servo motors" that is exactly the sort of info I am seeking. Can you suggest a manufacturer? I agree that Hood would have used what was available on the market, not gone with proprietary units, so I am still hoping to find something that will replace it fairly closely.
I literally spent hours on websites yesterday looking for anything that looked even similar, to no avail. I guess tonight will be another, just with a better description (planetary reduction gearbox) to work from.
Thanks for the input guys and I'll keep plugging along.

 

[JimInPB]

The flanges are likely standard. The male hub on the output side is likely matched to the female on the input side. Those are likely to also conform to a standard. The slot in the output shaft may be a custom modification to a standard shaft. The slot should be an easy modification for any local machine shop to make.

 

[JimInPB]

...JininPB, "planetary reduction gearboxes that I have seen used on servo motors" that is exactly the sort of info I am seeking. Can you suggest a manufacturer?...

There are lots of manufacturers out there. These guys are a cheap source -
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...MIvsT4_JSb3gIVSUsNCh1j7glmEAYYASABEgIWP_D_BwE

This is one brand that I work with frequently - https://www.bonfiglioliusa.com/en-u...arboxes/precision-planetary-inline-gearboxes/

This is another good one that I use often -
https://www.lenze.com/en-us/products/gearboxes/axial-gearbox/g700-p-planetary-gearbox/

& another -
https://www.parkermotion.com/products/Gearheads_and_Gearmotors____30_32_80_567_29.html

These guys are "junkies" that I sometimes use when I want to find discontinued old parts - https://www.radwell.com/Shop?source...MIvsT4_JSb3gIVSUsNCh1j7glmEAYYBSABEgKxjvD_BwE

Motion Industries is pretty good at finding what you need (new stuff) if you give them enough info - http://www.motionusa.com/parker-bayside

You may want to start by browsing the Parker/Bayside Gen 1 catalog - http://www.motionusa.com.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com/parker/Bayside-Gen1Gearheads.pdf

The pictures on page 191 will give you a pretty good idea of what kind of stuff is likely to be inside that little black box that is causing you frustration.

 

[capta]

There are lots of manufacturers out there. These guys are a cheap source -
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...MIvsT4_JSb3gIVSUsNCh1j7glmEAYYASABEgIWP_D_BwE

This is one brand that I work with frequently - https://www.bonfiglioliusa.com/en-u...arboxes/precision-planetary-inline-gearboxes/

This is another good one that I use often -
https://www.lenze.com/en-us/products/gearboxes/axial-gearbox/g700-p-planetary-gearbox/

& another -
https://www.parkermotion.com/products/Gearheads_and_Gearmotors____30_32_80_567_29.html

These guys are "junkies" that I sometimes use when I want to find discontinued old parts - https://www.radwell.com/Shop?source...MIvsT4_JSb3gIVSUsNCh1j7glmEAYYBSABEgKxjvD_BwE

Motion Industries is pretty good at finding what you need (new stuff) if you give them enough info - http://www.motionusa.com/parker-bayside

You may want to start by browsing the Parker/Bayside Gen 1 catalog - http://www.motionusa.com.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com/parker/Bayside-Gen1Gearheads.pdf

The pictures on page 191 will give you a pretty good idea of what kind of stuff is likely to be inside that little black box that is causing you frustration.

Jim,
Thank you so very much. I have absolutely no doubt that you have put me on the right track to solve our problem.
Now it is only a matter of getting the old one working well enough to figure the reduction ratio and finding a machine shop, as you said, to do the shaft ends. Fortunately, the is plenty of space in the mast to handle a slightly different configuration.
Thank you again!

 

[JimInPB]

When you do the autopsy on the old unit, in addition to counting teeth to get the gear ratio figured out, you may want to also look for an apparent root cause of the failure.

If the root cause appears to be a torque/strain related failure on the input side of the box, then you may wish to consider a new box with a slightly higher gear ratio, to reduce the loading on the input side at the expense of output shaft speed.

If you see an apparent torque related failure on the output side, then you may wish to consider getting a new box with a greater output torque rating. It is common for a given series of gear boxes to have more than one box with the same case & the same gear ratio. often there will be a medium duty version with one output torque rating & a heavy duty version with a higher output torque rating. Sometimes there are 4 or 5 different output torque rating versions to choose from. Sometimes the higher torque box will have the same output shaft. Sometimes it will have a larger diameter shaft. Any machine shop with a decent lathe should be able to reduce the shaft diameter on the heavy duty box to make it what you need it to be.

I understand that you will be guessing at the duty rating on the original unit, but I thought that it might be useful for me to give you this additional information to consider.

Maybe you will get real lucky & just find a rusted out circlip inside, that you can replace along with a couple of seals.

Good Luck

 

[capta]

When you do the autopsy on the old unit, in addition to counting teeth to get the gear ratio figured out, you may want to also look for an apparent root cause of the failure.

I'm pretty sure the root cause is salt water! 24 years since it was last serviced. I had no idea it needed any care and apparently the PO didn't either.
I intend to build an adapter plate for the top of the new one which will have an external zerk and we will periodically keep it filled with grease, so no water can sit on the top.

 

[kloudie1]

Remember that it needs to be anti-reversing as well, unless the motor has an electrically activated brake .. Going to be a big reduction ratio since the output speed is going to be around 60 RPM or less..

 

[capta]

Remember that it needs to be anti-reversing as well, unless the motor has an electrically activated brake .. Going to be a big reduction ratio since the output speed is going to be around 60 RPM or less..

I've not sailed on a lot of boats with IMRF, but every one I have sailed on had a lock to keep the sail set at the point you wish. Ours does, so anti-reversing is not a concern.

 

[capta]

UPDATE;
Again, I'd really like to thank everybody who contributed to this thread.
Fortunately for us, a local machinist has gotten the unit apart and informed us that it is not really that bad. Hooray! He said he will have it refurbished and back to us in a few days!
Some days are just better than others, aren't they?

 

[Jackdaw]

Its not the so-called 'manual emergency drive unit', to be used in case of lack of power??

I really got nothing else, but I'm in awe of the scale of your hardware. You sail a SHIP.

 

[capta]

Its not the so-called 'manual emergency drive unit', to be used in case of lack of power??

I really got nothing else, but I'm in awe of the scale of your hardware. You sail a SHIP.

No, it's an "Orbidrive", an orbital drive reduction gear, that reduces the speed of the electric motor. The 'manual emergency drive unit' is a three-way gearbox for the manual drive or the electric drive to power the luff rod.
As for 'a ship', the bigger a vessel gets, the easier it is to handle. It takes longer for the wind, sails, current, engine or helm to get a reaction from the boat.
When I was driving freighters, if I was pulling off the wharf, for instance, I'd make a wheel and engine decision and casually stroll (really, stroll) out to the bridge wing to see how the vessel reacted. If it was doing what I wanted, I'd return to the helm and do more of the same, but if not, with the same casualness, I'd return to the helm and try something different. I know it sounds unbelievable, but bigger is easier!

 

[capta]

An update.
Found someone here to get it apart and his diagnosis is that it isn't all that bad! We should have it back next week.