What would you call it?

[capta]

My Hood Stoway electric has this unit between the motor and the luff rod. It is not identified in any of the Stoway literature I have.
I've tried searching for it as a gearbox, speed reducer, and reduction gear, but have not been able to find anything on the web that is the same or even similar under those names.
6-94E is stamped on it. No manufacturer or company name.
I know some of you are geniuses when it comes to searching, so if anyone has any thoughts about what to call it that Google will recognize, or can find one, I'd sure appreciate any help you can give me.
Thanks in advance.

 

[jssailem]

OK.. I tried a backdoor approach... No joy but you might find a lead by contacting https://formulamasts.co.uk/masts.
I was seeking info on Hood InMast furlers... https://theriggingco.com/2014/03/17/furling-the-mainsail/ where I found this reference :

So which manufacturers are the best? Well that is a matter of opinion, and in my opinion if you absolutely have to have an in-mast furler choose a Hood system (now branded under the UK spar builder Formula Spars).​

Send them a picture. They may know what it is.

 

[SG]

Could it be a clutch or other safety device to keep from ripping the sail or damaging the luff rod?

 

[capta]

It is definitely a speed reducing gear or reduction gear, but nothing similar comes up using those search terms. I find most of the yacht equipment manufacturers use commonly available parts like this, rather than have them custom made. So, I'm just trying to come up with a search term google can work with.

 

[Gunni]

Looks like a luff rod bearing. Hood furlers tension the luff furling rod to prevent jams. Looks like this bearing device will allow the tensioning yet prevent the load being directed onto your gearbox or motor.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

Try thrust bearing

 

[kloudie1]

May be some of both a planetary gearbox and a hefty thrust bearing.. Looks re-buildable..
The luff rod connects to the long shaft and the motor shaft inserts into the other end?

 

[capta]

May be some of both a planetary gearbox and a hefty thrust bearing.. Looks re-buildable..
The luff rod connects to the long shaft and the motor shaft inserts into the other end?

Yes, I agree, it looks rebuildable, but so far all I've been able to remove is the split ring. It is indirectly attached to the luff rod by an engage/disengage toggle and bolted to the motor.
If I knew what was inside, I'd lean toward using heat to open it, but so far no info at all. After the split ring was removed, even a very, very strong West Indian couldn't budge it, while held in a vice.

 

[Gunni]

I would not use heat on a device that is likely to have seals and bearing races. Likely is pressed together.

 

[Parsons]

No suggestion on searching, but what's the approximate reduction ratio, about 15:1 ? That "6-94" may be the gear tooth ratio, as that's how I'd describe it for a bicycle.

 

[capta]

If it turned, I wouldn't be in this situation, so no idea of ratio.

 

[kloudie1]

Going to guess that some judicious tapping with a hammer will separate the (corroded together) case.. again guessing that the bolts are thru bolts that go from the outside end into the motor case.. and they hold the whole thing together..

 

[capta]

Going to guess that some judicious tapping with a hammer will separate the (corroded together) case.. again guessing that the bolts are thru bolts that go from the outside end into the motor case.. and they hold the whole thing together..

Been there, done that! No bolts; all fasteners come into this unit, none through it.

 

[kloudie1]

Woah! I wish I could put my fingers on it and see it.. up close.. I have worked many mystery gearboxes over the years.. Good Luck

 

[capta]

Woah! I wish I could put my fingers on it and see it.. up close.. I have worked many mystery gearboxes over the years.. Good Luck

You may get your wish if I can't find someone here to open it. If I can find a replacement perhaps we can make a deal, so I have a backup. lol
By the way, it appears all the parts come out the end with the now removed circlip. I had such high hopes that after getting that out without damaging it at all, the thing would be so grateful that it would tumble apart in my hands. Dream on, Andrew. How many decades have I been working on boats? lol

 

[capta]

Alrighty now! Some more information. Still no manufacturer, but it was called an Orbydrive. So it is an orbital drive reduction gear, no longer made or serviced by anybody. Since it is frozen, we can't tell the reduction ratio, making finding something to replace it even more difficult. No paperwork or diagrams available anywhere, apparently.
The numbers are Eric Pearson's code for when he last worked on it, so that is also a dead end.
If anyone has seen an old Hood Stoway electric mast laying around, please forward the info to me.
Anybody interested in helping us convert to a small hydraulic motor and reversible pump system, let us know. I'm thinking a very small on-demand hydraulic pump and motor (like for an autopilot) should turn slowly enough and have the power to do the job, but I'm far from knowledgeable in the field, suppliers, and engineers.
Our season starts in just under a month, so we are going to be busy. How about we trade hydraulic expertize for Caribbean sailing and some money?

 

[Gunni]

Have you talked to Bucher Hydraulics (bought out Monarch Hydraulics)? I saw a post that a Monarch Hydraulic motor was removed from a Hood system. Bucher is European, but they retained operations in Wisconsin.

 

[kloudie1]

Bearings may be a light press fit into the housing, requiring a press to disassemble?

 

[JimInPB]

That looks very much like a lot of the planetary reduction gearboxes that I have seen used on servo motors. I think that you are on the right track, removing the big snap ring in the end, then trying to pull the guts out that side. Unfortunately, since it is bound up, it is possible that one of the spider gears came off of it's axis & may now be jammed into the housing, preventing normal disassembly. If you are lucky, a small amount of brute force may liberate the contents of the case from their current predicament. First try turning the shaft in both directions with an adjustable wrench & see if you can find a loose spot where it is not jammed up tight. Once you get that, then you might want to try using a C-clamp with a socket & a couple of spreader planks to push the guts out of the case from the other end.

Alternately, you might measure up the bolt pattern, hub size & shaft sizes, then guess at the gear ratio & try to source a replacement. Most power transmission supply houses should be able to locate something like that by spec. Planetary reducers are a commonly used item in industrial equipment. Countless brands exist. Hub sizes & bolt patterns often conform to an industry standard.

If the motor itself has a name tag or other information on it, that might be helpful to know.

 

[kloudie1]

Probably very true, Jim in PB.. Probably was sourced to Hood as a "gearmotor" and not separate motor and gearbox.. Motor should have some tag info like rpm in and out and other useful info.. If made in USA, probably standard flange input side.. output shaft looks custom..