Hi all I need to redo my leaky chain plate on my 2007 H-36 and not sure what to use maybe 3M 4200.
Has any one done this.
Nick
Has any one done this.
Nick
What to use Rebedding
- Thread starter seadaddler
- Start date
Nick...don't you have escutcheon cover plates on you chain plates if so use butyl tape to bed the chain plates and you will not be sorry...that stuff flexes with the movement under load and is sorta self healing un like sealant like 4200 or anything else ..just tamp it in the cracks a crevices and leave enough for squeeze out when you tighten the plates down.....that stuff is great for doing this...
regards
woody
Bed-it brand butyl tape from Compass Marine: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
And here's how to use it: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117172
Don't be fooled by other brands of butyl tape you buy from home stores or window places, MaineSail has tested his formulation extensively in a marine environment.
And here's how to use it: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117172
Don't be fooled by other brands of butyl tape you buy from home stores or window places, MaineSail has tested his formulation extensively in a marine environment.
My Bad
Never did this before but did not explain properly and don't need to rebed just reseal where the chain plate goes down into inside the hull where the chain plates are bolted and don't need to touch any of that just seal the outside
where rain water leaking in.
Nick
Never did this before but did not explain properly and don't need to rebed just reseal where the chain plate goes down into inside the hull where the chain plates are bolted and don't need to touch any of that just seal the outside
where rain water leaking in.
Nick
Nick, that's an even better solution for butyl tape. Like this:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.msg49430.html#msg49430
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.msg49430.html#msg49430
Stu's got the nod on butyl tape! I have seen others use it on the Precision series of boats, which seem to be known to have very leaky chainplates, with new application of 4200 every 5 years or so. If theres a bigger gap, just build up thicker butyl as needed. And MaineSail's butyl is not expensive, either.
I've always used Butyl Tape to bed deck fittings including the chain plates. it has worked well for me so far.
Agreed as to the butyl tape from Compass Marine. Make sure you have all the remnants of the old sealants removed both physically and chemically. Only apply the butyl tape on the deck side - if you do get water in, you want it to come through the chainplate so you know you have a problem rather than pooling between the deck and the cabintop. As long as you have everything apart, you might consider coating the thru-deck penetration with epoxy as additional protection.
Yes to the butyl for the stated need. I have done exactly that. Works great. Caulk will dry up, harden, fail. Butyl will remain sticky and elastic for decades
Follow Up-356/36
I spoke to the guys at Hunter and they told me to use 5200 and that this needs
to be done every 5 or more years with 5200.
I know every one recommends Bed It tape and I have some but my leak is a surface sealing job where the stainless plates goes into the top of the Hull and bolted down inside the hull where there is not where it is leaking.
I will try to take photo and show why Bed It is not to be used,the area is very
hard to get at and work on and wish I had checked it when I had it on the hard
sure it would have been easy to work on and much harder at the dock.
I am waiting for a calm day to clean out the old 5200 and been too windy here
to work on it.
I am wondering if the 356 or other 36 Hunters have checked this area or done this and checked for a leak.
Nick
I spoke to the guys at Hunter and they told me to use 5200 and that this needs
to be done every 5 or more years with 5200.
I know every one recommends Bed It tape and I have some but my leak is a surface sealing job where the stainless plates goes into the top of the Hull and bolted down inside the hull where there is not where it is leaking.
I will try to take photo and show why Bed It is not to be used,the area is very
hard to get at and work on and wish I had checked it when I had it on the hard
sure it would have been easy to work on and much harder at the dock.
I am waiting for a calm day to clean out the old 5200 and been too windy here
to work on it.
I am wondering if the 356 or other 36 Hunters have checked this area or done this and checked for a leak.
Nick
Thanks, Dave.
5200 is, as Maine Sail points out
SATAN'S GLUE
Until we see the promised picture, I find the factory's advice puzzling at best.
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=892052&highlight=5200
5200 is, as Maine Sail points out
SATAN'S GLUE
Until we see the promised picture, I find the factory's advice puzzling at best.
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=892052&highlight=5200
Seaaddler, take advice from the manufacturer with a grain of salt. A volume production builder like Hunter is good at building boats - not repairing, or even building them to last all that long. Figure the original owner of a production boats keeps it, what, 10 years? And after that, the builder kinda doesn't really care too much?
Case in point, the windows on my O'day were leaking, but not because the sealant failed, but because screw holes drilled to hold the plexiglass weren't countersunk, leading to gelcoat spider cracks under the sealant, extending through the sealant. I say, bad manufacturing process, but, hey, it worked for at least 25 years.
I think Hunter is wrong - they may build with 5200 sealant for chainplates, but it obviously doesn't last. And I would say part of that is that 5200 isn't particularly flexible.
Go with the butyl and save yourself finding out what we already know about Hunter's recommendation.
Case in point, the windows on my O'day were leaking, but not because the sealant failed, but because screw holes drilled to hold the plexiglass weren't countersunk, leading to gelcoat spider cracks under the sealant, extending through the sealant. I say, bad manufacturing process, but, hey, it worked for at least 25 years.
I think Hunter is wrong - they may build with 5200 sealant for chainplates, but it obviously doesn't last. And I would say part of that is that 5200 isn't particularly flexible.
Go with the butyl and save yourself finding out what we already know about Hunter's recommendation.
Clarify "top of the hull" please.
My chainplates penetrate the top of the deck and I am very happy using butyl to seal this area. This is likely one of the most prominent places for flexing and 5200 will dry out and crack whereas the butyl will NOT.
I was repairing a portlight dog and the bolt broke leaving me with only one lock. Sure enough it started raining...hard. I wadded up some butyl and went outside, in the rain, and applied the butyl to slow down the water coming in. It sealed COMPLETELY, in the rain, glass to aluminum. If you dont need fastening, only sealing above waterline; you cannot beat butyl. It will last at least 20 years and likely more. Will not dry out.
My guess is that manufacturers dont use butyl because it takes a bit of time to properly install it. Quicker to just squirt a bit of black voodoo and move on. One they commit to that in manufacture, you think they'll tell you to do something different later? Instantly someone will jump on them for admitting their build method was wrong.
My chainplates penetrate the top of the deck and I am very happy using butyl to seal this area. This is likely one of the most prominent places for flexing and 5200 will dry out and crack whereas the butyl will NOT.
I was repairing a portlight dog and the bolt broke leaving me with only one lock. Sure enough it started raining...hard. I wadded up some butyl and went outside, in the rain, and applied the butyl to slow down the water coming in. It sealed COMPLETELY, in the rain, glass to aluminum. If you dont need fastening, only sealing above waterline; you cannot beat butyl. It will last at least 20 years and likely more. Will not dry out.
My guess is that manufacturers dont use butyl because it takes a bit of time to properly install it. Quicker to just squirt a bit of black voodoo and move on. One they commit to that in manufacture, you think they'll tell you to do something different later? Instantly someone will jump on them for admitting their build method was wrong.
There's your answer as to how good 5200 is..... :cussing:
Every five years "or more" you need a stick of dynamite to fix your leaking chain plates????
5200 is far from a permanent fix, so why use a nearly permanent GLUE...??
Photo
I will need to take a photo and show you all the problem and why Hunter suggest 5200.
The bed it tape is put down and than squeezed into any space of bolts or screws and metal plate but no srews or bolts to sqeeze in the sealer.
As I said I will post a photo hopefully today.
I did recently order and receive 2 boxes from mainsail and the bed it tape as marked on the box and wondering if care needs be taken while storing and waiting to be used months down the road or how long will it last sitting in my garage
Nick
I will need to take a photo and show you all the problem and why Hunter suggest 5200.
The bed it tape is put down and than squeezed into any space of bolts or screws and metal plate but no srews or bolts to sqeeze in the sealer.
As I said I will post a photo hopefully today.
I did recently order and receive 2 boxes from mainsail and the bed it tape as marked on the box and wondering if care needs be taken while storing and waiting to be used months down the road or how long will it last sitting in my garage
Nick
Nick,
I bought two rolls a year or two ago. They're on the boat, up on a shelf and doing fine.
Think of it this way: it stays out in the sun and does well for over a decade. Your garage oughta do just fine!
Either that or stick it with your wife's pots & pans, she'll never know.
So squeeze it yourself! Can you use small tools to stuff it into the crevasses? It is extremely sticky so once there it should stay.