As I write this, I am clearly out of my depth, so I will just pose some questions.
1. From my reading, it appears that relatively few blue water sailors or boats are actually lost at sea due to catastrophic failure of the boat. That is very distinct from the much greater number that may have to limp to a foreign shore where very expensive parts are ordered and laid in while the crew waits for them. My guess is that engine issues and standing rigging constitute the most frequent offshore issues, and hull failure or delaminations very rare?
2. If the above is true, it seems like it would be possible to make a coastal cruiser into a blue water boat at considerable expense doing many of the things suggested by Berman in his Outfitting the Offshore Cruising Sailboat. I guess this raises the question whether it is better [cost effective and/or quality] to buy a boat that came from the factory with most of these improvements, or to have them added to ones own specifications.
3. Some part of this debate focused on Jackdaw's observation that the better the boat and skipper, the less one has to rely on luck. As a novice, I look at luck as how forgiving my boat will be when my inexperience and stupidity puts me in a tight situation. Anyone who spends a great deal of time offshore is destined to make some mistakes, or fall victim to the mistakes of others. I suspect that's where the build of most boats will have their chance to minimize the impact of the error of our ways.
1. you are correct, barring the extremes we hear about (remember news is a negative drawn medium, the bad things show up while the success stories wither and die before making it far) delam is largely unlikely in a good quality/bang for your buck model of boat (im leaving size out of it, seriously go look at a pacific seacraft flicka 19, its badass) proper maintenance with the motor and getting familiar with the basics of repairing/servicing it will serve you excellently. having a spaceship yacht that is complicated and you dont know how to fix will hamper you no matter how much you spent on the boat. if buying a used bargain cruiser (like me 1978 h33) selecting a boat with a well kept mast and understanding that the standing rigging needs to be replaced from the get-go then doing it a little overboard for strength purposes will serve you well along with installing rig management equipment, like backstay adjusters, running backstays or checkstays for fractional rigged boats, basically any equipment it takes to limit/stop any harmonic pumping.
2. boats from the factory will be woefully inept at fitting into that books guidelines, thats what im saying about outfitting, buy something slightly spartan that has a good strong hull that has proven itself for comfort and robust build (stay away from new boats where manufacturers have started to lighten the hulls for performance by thinning them and claiming technological prowess, there is a benifit to my era of boat that the manufacturers went with the idea that they knew they had no idea how much fiberglass was necessary for strength so they used a lot, you get thick hulls and very low stress cycling, i think it was sailing magazine that applied a modern cycle life calculation to a pearson 10 meter that was lightly constructed for its day and arrived at a cycle life of 96,000 years or something.) then fit it out the way you need it, add tankage, modify storage solutions, install systems like solar power and safety backups.
3. mistakes will be made and one of the first things i was taught, and it has proven true time and time again is that boats like the westsail 32 are tough and slow, prepare to be in trouble and hope she holds, probably will, better to learn to plan trips and utilize a lighter boat that is still tough yet performs more briskly even if it has to be reefed early and get out of the weathers path, to quote john paul jones "i wish to have no connection to a ship which does not sail fast; for i intend to go into harms way." we are constantly in harms way once we leave the dock.