West Wight Potter P19

[David Van Ess]

I recently acquired a P19 that had been sitting on a trailer for 12-13 years. I‘m slowly but surely prepping it for my first sailing, but
I’ve run into a problem with the keel that I desperately need some info and advice on. In short, the keel is stuck in the up position
and we can’t get it to go down even an inch. Firstly, how is the keel sleeved, and in what material is it sleeved? The keel is rusted
and I’m thinking that it may be rusted in place against a steel sleeve? I really don’t want to continue beating on it and trying to shove thin tools down and up the sleeve for fear of doing permanent damage. The cable is slack, but it just won’t go down. My email is d.vaness@yahoo.com if you’re going to contact me. In advance, I would appreciate any help to get it moving. My buddy and I are both mechanical, so we have open minds about a solution.
Dave

 

[jssailem]

Hi David. Welcome to the SBO forum.
The West W Potter is a trailer boat. A couple of pictures of your boat's center board (inside and out) might help to get a few more reply's or suggestions.

I am guessing here that you have the boat in the water and the "keel" is stuck. (If your on the trailer the trailer may be stopping the "keel" from lowering.

The Potter site (West Wight Potter :: potter-19) leads me to believe the unit cranks up and down. If it is not cranking down then it has swollen, rusted in place, perhaps the cable is cross wound, or the prevoius owner stuck a pin (maybe a screw driver) through the side of the trunk to hold the "keel" up when on the trailer. You pull the pin and you free the "keel".​

• The Potter 19’s keel design retracts vertically into the hull. The fully retracting
  keel allows the Potter to be the only fully beachable cruiser her
  size – great for going ashore in remote areas.
• The "keel" is raised and lowered by using a convenient winch, which is operated from the cockpit. This allows the skipper to adjust the keel position, without having to leave the helm

The worse case is you will have to support the boat off the trailer and then try to work on the keel. (This is really more of a center or dagger board then a keel.)

 

[Hunter216]

I recently acquired a P19 that had been sitting on a trailer for 12-13 years. I‘m slowly but surely prepping it for my first sailing, but
I’ve run into a problem with the keel that I desperately need some info and advice on. In short, the keel is stuck in the up position
and we can’t get it to go down even an inch. Firstly, how is the keel sleeved, and in what material is it sleeved? The keel is rusted
and I’m thinking that it may be rusted in place against a steel sleeve? I really don’t want to continue beating on it and trying to shove thin tools down and up the sleeve for fear of doing permanent damage. The cable is slack, but it just won’t go down. My email is d.vaness@yahoo.com if you’re going to contact me. In advance, I would appreciate any help to get it moving. My buddy and I are both mechanical, so we have open minds about a solution.
Dave

I found this via a little Googlin

I think John is on to something as this article describes keel bolts to take the weight off the winch cable.

Tips on P19 Keel Operation

This manual isn’t much help as it barely mention the “keel”. Here is a link if you don’t have it.

https://www.potter-yachters.org/P19_Manual/Potter19.pdf

This version is much more detailed and clearly shows bolts that are holding up the centreboard.

https://www.potter-yachters.org/P19_Manual/P-19_Manual.pdf

I guess if all else fails you could also contact the company

 

[jssailem]

I think John is on to something

I keep telling everyone, Hunter216, This is my first rodeo... I'm a virgin be gentle.

 

[David Van Ess]

Hi John, and fellow nautical person, Yes, the two horizontal bolts are out, and the cable is a little slack but it still won't go down. Is there a way to find out what material is in the keeltrunk that holds the keel? The boat is a 1992 model if that helps. It's still on a trailer at this point.
Dave

 

[Hunter216]

Perhaps someone else on these forums might be able to answer your question but this is the contact form for the company.

West Wight Potter :: Contact Us

West Wight Potter sailboats, the Potter 15 and Potter 19, are a fantastic buy for the trailerable sailboat seeker.

www.westwightpotter.com

 

[rgranger]

Can you get some penetrating oil in the sleeve? Maybe PB blaster or kroil,
Soak it real good and let time do it’s thing.

 

[rgranger]

And be careful not to lose a finger or worse when it finally drops

 

[jssailem]

Ok it is on the trailer. Pictures would help to clarify how the boat is sitting. Is the trailer holding up the bottom of the boat where the “keel” would fall?

Often trailers have bunks.(carpet covered supports). These can put pressure on the boat hull. Are there pressures warping or deforming the hull thus holding dagger board in the slot.

Not seeing the “keel” difficult to tell if the keel material could be swelling and stopping it from sliding out.

 

[DrJudyB]

The keel trunk is fiberglass. If the boat is on the trailer, there is a support underneath preventing it from dropping.

The short version of how to fix it. The best course of action is to get the boat off the trailer, elevate the boat (or dig a hole under it) and drop the keel. Remove the top cap and the keel will come out the bottom. You can probably stick a long hack saw blade between the keel and the trunk to loosen the rust.

Once the keel is out, sandblast it clean and immediately coat it in epoxy resin or hot dip galvanize it with a thin coat.

For more advice head over to thePotter forum at West Wight Potter

Tips on P19 Keel Operation

I wrote this about 20 years ago!

The builder went out of business about 2years ago, and the website keeps zombie-ing on.

I’ve owned a Potter of one vintage or another for 25years or so. I’m the sailmaker for them too.

Judy B

Judy B's West Wight Potter Pages

Tips and technical advice for upgrading and maintaining the West Wight Potter Sailboats and other pocket-cruisers. Rigging design and specification, fiberglass repair, gelcoat repair, masts, booms, sailing technique and more.

www.blumhorst.com

 

[David Van Ess]

Hi Judy B, and other Nautical friends,
Thanks so much for your response. There’s about 1 1/2” of room under the boat/keel to the trailer so there’s a little room for it to drop, but to date, it still won’t move having tried WD40, Kroil, FreeAll, acetone, all liberally and let sit for about a day each to no avail. Hammering and tapping, words of persuasion haven’t worked either. We shoved a steel strap and a short cut saw down inside the keeltrunk to try to break up the congestion as well. I’m guessing that the paint chips and rust are solidified after 13 years of it sitting. Any other words of wisdom or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks again!
David

 

[DrJudyB]

I’ve never had to free a keel that’s stuck with rust. You might try alternating the application of acid-based rust remover with scraping/sawing and rinsing.

Even vinegar might work to loosen rust flakes, albeit slowly. If vinegar doesn’t work, you could try a commercial, acid- based rust dissolving product.

Read and follow instructions carefully with acid based products. It’s a nasty job working with acid. There willl be dangerous fumes from the chemical reaction. You will need to protect yourself with a full face respirator with acid cartridges, long gloves, and plastic sleeves.

Good luck.

 

[Hunter216]

If I understand correctly (often not the case ) the keel trunk case is a solid, multilayer fibreglass “slot” and the “keel” is a 300lb steel centreboard, that moves vertically only. In other words the keel doesn’t pivot on anything.

If that is the case would it be possible to insert a reciprocating saw blade between the keel and the trunk? The vibration from this tool might break the bond and get it to move.

 

[garymalmgren]

Hi David.
Photographs will assist everyone.
I found this one of the interior.
Is this what you have?

If so, I would be trying to jack it up from below.

Gary

 

[rgranger]

Hi David.
Photographs will assist everyone.
I found this one of the interior.
Is this what you have?

View attachment 180560
View attachment 180561

If so, I would be trying to jack it up from below.

Gary

Good idea!
Take that cap off, put some penetrating oil in the groove and put a jack under... let it sit a while.
Are you 100% sure there is t a retaining pin someplace?

 

[David Van Ess]

Yes

Hi David.
Photographs will assist everyone.
I found this one of the interior.
Is this what you have?

View attachment 180560
View attachment 180561

If so, I would be trying to jack it up from below.

Gary

Yes Gary, that‘s the same set up. We tried to jack it up with a bottle jack twice but it didn’t work. The whole boat started lifting up off the trailer. Since I’ve tried several different fluids to loosen I’m going to try to jack it again.

 

[garymalmgren]

Hi David.
I am not familiar with this boat or set up, but that won't stop me.

Try jacking it up the daggerboard and walking away.
Maybe. the weight of the boat will assist.
The keel is referred to as a daggerboard in the manual (supplied by Hunter 216)

In the diagram on page 35 there is a wedge and the manual says

5. Setup After Launching A. Lower ing the Dagger Board
(1) Do these steps to lower the daggerboard:
(a) Raise the daggerboard an inch or so by turning the winch handle
clockwise (as viewed looking aft).
Refer to Figure 5-1.
Figure 5-1
(b) Remove the two bolts from the daggerboard.
(See Fig 5.2). Also, if you use one, remove the wood wedge that keeps the
daggerboard from moving for - and- aft.

So. if you are having so luck with verticlal movement, from below try to pry the daggerboard fore and then aft to break the hold of the rust. I would use a long piece of hardwood(broom handle) that is shaped to connect with the daggerboard well and a hammer.
Don't lever against the daggerboard box.

Let us know how you solve this one please.

gary

 

[Joe Blizzard]

I’m going to try to jack it again.

I don't have anything helpful to add, but it's times like these I'm thankful for my stubby little shoal keel. Good luck with the jack. Maybe letting the weight of the boat slowly work on it for a while will encourage your keel to move.

 

[DrJudyB]

Hoist it up in the air and hit the bottom of the keel sharply with a sledge (with a wooden blocK for protection). The impact will jar it loose. Then drop the keel out the bottom and refinish it.

I’ve seen it done. That’s how boatyards do it.

 

[David Van Ess]

Hoist it up in the air and hit the bottom of the keel sharply with a sledge (with a wooden blocK for protection). The impact will jar it loose. Then drop the keel out the bottom and refinish it.

I’ve seen it done. That’s how boatyards do it.

Ok thanks a lot for the input, but unfortunately I don’t have the resources for that and far from any boat yard.
So you’ll be here this weekend to help me work on it? Just kidding. I took a Sawzall and a 6” metal blade under the boat last night and cut along each side of the keel, close as possible of course, and beat on it with a 3 lb mallet, but it STILL wouldn’t budge. I then spayed another bunch of Free All down in the keeltrunk and left it for the night. My next step will be to try a floor jack to push up on it, then if that doesn’t work, I plan to use the next length sawzall blade to cut further up along the keel. OMG what a project. I have my own electrical contracting business, so it keeps me from spending more energy and time on it, but I will persevere. I’m quite anxious for several reasons, my father and I were in the US Coast Guard, grew up on Lake Michigan, Cape May, Governors Island, NY ,and I lived on a cutter in Hawaii for a year and a half, and lived in Hawaii for three years, but Ive never had my own boat until now. So I’m itching to get out there.
Again, thanks to all for your help and input. Aloha, Dave