Water heat engine heat exchanger lines connect?
- Thread starter Woodworks1
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,845
Nice. Kumma was not known to have much insulation around their tanks. I’d replace the element and be sure the proper fittings are screwed into the inlets. Some folks used the wrong thread. They then leak. Might want to pressure test the tank and the water coil.
Thank, It hasn’t been used much. Serviced it. Guy wanted $200 for both but we traded him for this drawing I did of a Buzzards Bay 25 by N.G. Herreshoff instead.
If you are requesting water heater recommendations, the choices will be limited by the space available and your budget. At the high end are Raritan heaters. A 6-gallon model will set you back around $1K.
There is nothing wrong with a Kuma heater. In fact it is the only company that has made the effort to have their water heaters UL listed. As your photo shows, the tank is pretty well insulated. A Kuma much more affordable than a Raritan. Check FisheriesSupply.com and Defender.com for prices.
We are replacing a Whale with a Kuma 6 gal water heater.
If it broke but worked well enough before replace with something similar.
If it broke but worked well enough before replace with something similar.
I was a HERS Rater. One of the things we did was to do a savings to investment ratios (SIR) for homeowners that were adding upgrades, energy efficient items to their homes.
So since I’m not paying for electricity, even if I put a dollar into insulation it would never pay for itself.
So since I’m not paying for electricity, even if I put a dollar into insulation it would never pay for itself.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,845
That would be true and supportive of your desire as long as you are plugged into the marina power source.
Would the insulation start to pay you back once you unplug, leave the dock, while still having the desire for hot water on the boat?
I chose to buy a water heater with a reputation for a well-insulated tank. I can go for 1-2 days without having to heat the water in the tank. Maybe it is not a complete ROI.
From a practical standpoint, I have hot water on the boat even when not plugged into the marina.
I may use my boat differently than you do.
It cost 1 to 2 cents per gallon to heat the water. The lake I sail on is a hydroelectric dam so the transmission loss would be minimal. I could do a simple payback period on the heat loss on a R-value of 3.5 vs 7 on a $1,000 water heater vs the one I gave a drawing for.
Having hot water longer does have a value.
I mean no offense.
But I would rather go sailing.
It cost 1 to 2 cents per gallon to heat the water. The lake I sail on is a hydroelectric dam so the transmission loss would be minimal. I could do a simple payback period on the heat loss on a R-value of 3.5 vs 7 on a $1,000 water heater vs the one I gave a drawing for.
Having hot water longer does have a value.
I mean no offense.
But I would rather go sailing.
The cost of heating the water never really factors into the equation. In almost all cases that’s negligible, and cheaper to use shore power than an engine anyway. The reason people want better insulated water heaters is to keep the water hot longer. That way you can heat the water up one day (either at shore or with the engine), then still have the hot water to use the next morning after you’ve anchored out. If that’s not how you use your boat then that won’t matter to you, and you’re better off not worrying about it. Personally I need a hot shower in the morning, even when anchored out, but Plenty of people do without any hot water at all on smaller boats. Your boat, your choice, as they say.
I believe the thread I started has lost its original intent.
Water heat engine heat exchanger lines connect?
Water heat engine heat exchanger lines connect?
Look at Post #14. The water exits from the engine block, enters the HW tank and returns to the exhaust manifold. Use a good quality heater hose. Trident.
Your raw water cooled engine has no heat exchanger lines to insert into. The place @dlochner pointed at in post 14 would probably be the best spot, if you decide it’s worth doing.
I did some digging on the internet and was thinking about conversations I’ve had here and in other places about adding a water heater to the cooling system on 5411 universal diesel pertaining to the freshwater lake that is runoff from limestone bedrock (hard water). Most don’t have strainers on the raw water intake on their engine cooling system here because it is really clean and clear. I thought this was odd, but that’s the system I have now.
I’ve also been told to remove the thermostat because we only motor for 10 minutes at a time out and back but I let my engine warm up before heading out. I think people take the thermostat out because of the potential for clogging it because there’s no strainer but I left mine in because that just seems like a good idea. Will most likely add a strainer.
I also found this site with photos on line that show lines take off at the engine to manifold crossover connection for water heater that was reference in post 14 by dlochner. If I were to put the connection here I think a temperature control valves or thermostat would keep the water heater from starving the engine of heat during the warm-up.
2023
This are photos of the alterations to the system of the homemade adapter for removed the original thermostat, questionable my opinion.
These is post alterations to the raw water system
I’ve also been told to remove the thermostat because we only motor for 10 minutes at a time out and back but I let my engine warm up before heading out. I think people take the thermostat out because of the potential for clogging it because there’s no strainer but I left mine in because that just seems like a good idea. Will most likely add a strainer.
I also found this site with photos on line that show lines take off at the engine to manifold crossover connection for water heater that was reference in post 14 by dlochner. If I were to put the connection here I think a temperature control valves or thermostat would keep the water heater from starving the engine of heat during the warm-up.
2023
This are photos of the alterations to the system of the homemade adapter for removed the original thermostat, questionable my opinion.
These is post alterations to the raw water system
When you idle your engine to warm it up, have you checked the temperature? When I had a sea water cooled Volvo MD7A idling never warmed up the engine. Diesels need a load in order to heat up. Leaving it to idle allows carbon to build up in the exhaust elbow and does not allow the piston rings to expand seal the cylinder. All it needs is a few minutes to circulate the oil and then you're good to go.
If you are only running the engine for 15 minutes at speed, I wouldn't worry about heating the HW tank. It will take more time than that to get the water meaningfully hot. The tank, once hot from shore power will stay hot for at least 12 hours and still be pretty warm after 24 hours if no water is used. If your plans change and your are cruising and motoring more, then adding the HW loop would be worth it.
If you are only running the engine for 15 minutes at speed, I wouldn't worry about heating the HW tank. It will take more time than that to get the water meaningfully hot. The tank, once hot from shore power will stay hot for at least 12 hours and still be pretty warm after 24 hours if no water is used. If your plans change and your are cruising and motoring more, then adding the HW loop would be worth it.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,845
Engine temperature is regulated by the thermostat.
Hot water is not needed until the engine can produce enough heat to share it in the Water Heater Tank. The Thermostat is closed, forcing the engine water to follow the recirculating path back to the engine. This continues until the engine water temp exceeds the thermostat limits (135º for the 5411 engine).
While some water is released to go out the exhaust, most is returned to the engine. Locating the water heater manifold at position #1 seems to be optimal. It will be water that exceeds 135º. It will be water that is in the exhaust stream. A manifold will allow opening or shutting the water flow diversion to the water heater. The water is returned to the exhaust stream after transferring some heat to the water heater. As long as there are no restrictions that cause back pressure, it looks like a better place to put your manifold.
I am not an engine mechanic. I would discuss this idea with a mechanic or an engineer.
Hot water is not needed until the engine can produce enough heat to share it in the Water Heater Tank. The Thermostat is closed, forcing the engine water to follow the recirculating path back to the engine. This continues until the engine water temp exceeds the thermostat limits (135º for the 5411 engine).
While some water is released to go out the exhaust, most is returned to the engine. Locating the water heater manifold at position #1 seems to be optimal. It will be water that exceeds 135º. It will be water that is in the exhaust stream. A manifold will allow opening or shutting the water flow diversion to the water heater. The water is returned to the exhaust stream after transferring some heat to the water heater. As long as there are no restrictions that cause back pressure, it looks like a better place to put your manifold.
I am not an engine mechanic. I would discuss this idea with a mechanic or an engineer.