Wait A Minute!!

[Don Guillette]

Yesterday, I was talking to a Phoenix, AZ sailor who was complaining that when he made a sail trim adjustment using the SAIL TRIM CHART nothing happened so he's adjusted the controls even further and his trim turned out messy. I used an analogy to solve his problem. I told him that when I adjusted the carburetor jet on my 1954 Bel Air Convertible (why did I ever sell that car!!) I always had to wait a bit for the carb to catch up. When there was silence on the other end of the phone I assumed he was wondering what's a carburetor and why would it have jets so I changed tack - so to speak.

I used a shower analogy - when you change from cold to hot water does the temp change immediately? It doesn't and that is what happens when you make a sail trim adjustment. You have to wait a few seconds for the sails to catch up. By not waiting for the sails to catch up and by making another adjustment, the Phoenix sailor made the situation worse by going past the correct adjustment.

How many times have you seen this happen? When the boat is tacked the jib trimmer madly pulls in the jib sheet and starts cranking the winch. He should stop and smell the roses while performing his job. When the boat is in the process of tacking, the trimmer should take up as much slack as he can. He then waits for the boat to come head to wind and for the jib to backwind, which pushes the bow over, and for the other trimmer to cut the sheet. At that point he starts to apply pressure but go slowly (I don't mean to take the amount of time it takes to eat a Hoagie) and allow the sail to power up. Once the sheet is released from the side that was powered and a couple of wraps taken on the winch, that trimmer generally assumes his job is done - it isn't. He should turn his attention to becoming the tailor and help power up the sail.

One more point - the new trimmer has an important job to do before he starts cranking himself to death. Just before the boat comes head to wind it's his job to check the "break of the sail". Why does he care how the sail breaks? The reason he should care is the break tells him the new setting of the fairlead car. This is extremly iimportant with pin type fairlead, which are no fun to adjust under load. It's not so important with an adjustable fairlead system but since he just sitting there doing nothing he should make the adjustment anyway.

When done correctly, the tacking process should take less than 30 seconds and you should only lose less than 1 knot of speed. When the jib is madly cranked in and not allowed to power up it just hangs there like a limp rag. That causes more speed to be lost.

 

[Jim Beck]

What do you mean by checking the "break of the sail"? (And, how do you translate that into the proper car position for the fairlead?

 

[Don Guillette]

Jim: Good question. The "break of the jib" is hard to see at first but once seen it will become second nature. If I was sitting in your cockpit with you I could show you very quickly. The sail is drawing as you come head to wind and then it loses its draw and starts to flop around. Just before that instant and almost at the same time, the following is going to happen. Either the foot will flutter or the bottom telltales will break before the top ones. That tells you to move the fairlead AFT a couple of notches.

If the leech flutters or the top telltales break before the bottom ones what that is telling you is to move the fairlead FORWARD a couple of notches.

Even with a adjustable fairlead system you have to know which way to move the car. Again, the problem is seeing it for the first time. My suggestion is to sail closehauled and then bring the boat up to head to wind but don't tack. Look for the situation I'm describing. if you don't see it, fall off and do it again.

If the jib brakes evenly from top to bottom then your setting is correct and no adjustment is necessary. The problem is that this rarely happens as the wind is ever changing. The sad thing is that most of the boats I go on the fairleads appear to be frozen in place. I confirm that by asking the skipper how and why he adjusts his fairleads. the answer I get is he doesn't. Here's the problem with that. On the mainsail there are a number of different sail trim controls that adjust draft depth, draft position, twist and angle of attack. On the jib the fairleads are used to adjust ALL 4 ELEMENTS. If you don't adjust your fairleads on a masthead rig you're like a broken clock. Your setting is right for one pont of sail and WRONG for all others.

 

[Joe]

My memory aid is : if the Bottom Breaks first....... move the jib car Back...
Bottom-----Back

 

[Alan]

..in addition to trimming in on the new sheet after the tack the helm is not sailing the opposite course as it was just before the tack. After the tack the helm will be steering a slightly lower course to allow the boat to build speed. During this period the apparent wind is slightly further aft and the jib trimmer needs to allow for this in the adjustment. As the boat builds speed up again the helm will steer higher and the apparent wind will move forward requiring the matching adjustment to the new breeze. All of this produces a faster course to sail. The jib trimmer should have his eyes on the jib telltales the whole time to make these necessary corrections. All this occurs after the cars are reset during the tack. It only requires very minor car adjustments which take only seconds to get it right but it is so very important if you're looking to get it right.

 

[FastOlson]

Thanks Don. Great article!

I find that many guest-crew, even with considerable sailing experience, do not know how to make the tacks go easier and also keep speed up. They sometimes have to be taught that tacking is more than just putting the helm all the way "over."

I also instruct the sheet trimmers not to just totally release the old sheet with a bang, but shorten down to two wraps and actually allow it to back-wind the genny just a bit before it pops thru the fore triangle -- this works with/augments the rudder position and momentum to bring the bow over.

We use something like a "stepped" process where the driver first brings the boat into the wind, then slows the turn to allow the sail to smoothly pass center and the cockpit trimmer to to catch up on yarding in the new sheet. Then, continue to fall off onto new tack, but gently. Whole Idea is to let the trimmer get the sheet in as much as possible by hand before having to add another wrap or two and move the last turn into the jaws of the ST. We use a T-handle, but still do not want to wear out the trimmers/grinders.

Sailing on our river, short-tacking is pretty much a way of life!


Best,
LB

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Confused by one point ...

If you are watching the break just before the genny goes head to wind, how does this indicate the setting of the new fairlead? It seems to me that it is telling you whether or not the setting of the loaded fairlead was correct - after the fact. I understand what it is you are looking at with respect to the sail, I'm just not following how it relates to the new tack, which might be entirely different.

Do you mean that it is an indication from the last tack that is useful when the new fairlead is loaded, assuming that the new tack mirrors the last tack? I generally have the fairleads adjusted to the same position on both sides due to the fact that when tacking upwind, I am usually trying to maintain the same angle to the wind.

 

[Don Guillette]

Re: Confused by one point ...

Scott: You have to start somewhere and the new fairlead positon I set, after reading the break, is where I start. What would be the alternative? Let's assume the break indicates a change is needed - something happened on the original tack and the fairlead position on the loaded sheet is now incorrect. The lazy sheet fairlead position hasn't changed from the last tack so chances are it's going to incorrect for the new point of sail. Maybe it won't be- if a mate has an adjustable the adjustment is easy. It's not so easy with a pin type fairlead.

Anyway, the method I put forth is what works for me and I've never read the break and had it so far off that I missed it by a mile - might have to tweek it a bit but I'm in the fairlead position ball park. The wind is never the same for any period of time.

What method do you use?

 

[DancingDays]

This may be too basic for this forum--but how do you go about the actual adjustment? If you notice the tale-tells breaking "wrong" when you tack, won't the new sheet be loaded by the time you have a chance to do something about it? When cruising, I try not to adjust a fairlead under load--I just adjust the old fairlead and try to remember to adjust the loaded one when I unload it on the next tack.

But we're just starting to try our hands at racing, and I don't think we'd much like to leave the fairlead in the wrong position for any length of time, nor would we want to throw in an unnecessary tack just to adjust the fairlead. How do you guys do it? (Assuming "cruising" style fairleads, not fancy line-adjustable racing fairleads).

 

[Don Guillette]

DancingDays: I'm only going to answer part of your question as I want to see where this thread goes.

First, no question is to basic to the sail trim forum. This forums only purpose is to provide sail trim info to beginners and intermediate sailors.

No, the sheet will not be loaded before the new trimmer can do anything about it. That is because the "loaded trimmer" has read the break while he is still in control of the sheet because the sail has yet to backwind. In other words, the new trimmer is just sitting there taking up slack when he gets the call as to where to position his fairlead. Remeber we are only dealing in inches or a couple of pin holes. if the break is really bad then the instruction is to go for an extra pin hole.

 

[WayneH]

Don, I got to jump in here on DancingDays question. Not all of us race with a full crew. I, myself, race with my first mate only. And under those conditions, I don't have time to adjust the new car before I load it up. Once I get the sail set, I can then go and adjust the old car which is now unloaded.

I can not figure out how to watch the break, loose the sheet, adjust the new car and trim in the 155 without losing lots of speed at the end of the tack. Help me visualize this if I'm mistaken.

 

[cwkemp]

While sailing alone, I find it a challenge just to view the top telltales on my genoa. Sometimes I actually move to the low side and sight from under the boom, but if the wind is up I'll adjust the jib blocks based on feel or heel, if I've got it wrong it feels like the brake is on, and if I'm uncomfortable with the heel angle I'll move them back a notch or two. I also try to sail with the twist of each sail mirroring the other. My "cars" are actually indexed on the track using a thumb screw. I can move them back under load OK, but have to ease out or head up to adjust a loaded car forward.
When my wife and I are out together she will mind the top telltales of the heads'l or move the car for the lazy sheet though she doesn't like to handle any loaded controls.
I'm interested to know how other sailors manage the lead blocks while out alone in various conditions.

 

[Don Guillette]

Wayne: I never raced my boat and the max number of guests I had on board was 2 and generally they had never been on a sail boat. My boat was loaded down with my wifes comforts, which I also enjoyed, to such an extent that when I sold the boat and unloaded it the waterline was 2" above the water !! Additionally, and like you, I sailed 95% of the time with my wife only. In my case, that ment singlehanded.

When a cruiser tacks it's not a timed event and the skipper he/she isn't racing against the clock. If you don't complete the tack in under 30 seconds and if you lose 2 or 3 knots of speed - so what?

Here's how it went with me. All I really wanted to know was how the sail broke. I really didn't care if the lazy sheet was slack and in the water. I'd take care of that later. Assume I had pin type fairleads, which I didn't. I'd reset them as to how I read the break and then go from there. In my case, I had the Garhauer adjustable fairlead system so I made the adjustment AFTER I cranked in the sheet and then I'd adjust further from there using my telltales. The break told me which way to go - and in 9 out 0f 10 tacks I was right on because the wind didn't change in 30 seconds from one tack to the next.

So mate, here's how you tack. Slow down and smell the roses when you tack. Read your break, then have half a "tinney" (Aussie for beer), reset your fairlead (if necessary), crank up the jib slack, pour your wife a vintage wine and finish your "tinney", check your telltales and readjust if necessary and sail off into the sunset or wherever.

See how easy it is!!!

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Don, I kind of figured that was the answer ...

Next time out, I will pay attention to how the sail breaks. Yesterday, I was actually paying more attention to the telltales for setting the fairleads since I was sailing alone and I didn't have any restraints on how much I wanted to tweak controls. We didn't have any breezes topping 10 knots yesterday so I found that I could adjust the pin-stops forward just by stepping on the sheet. I could go overboard with this maneuver, though, so it's generally not a good idea!

Now that I have line control for my traveller and the backstay adjuster, the next step is the fairleads. I have a problem with positioning the sheets inside or outside the lifelines. The track is on the rail so I position the lines inside when close hauled but have to change them outside for reaching ... which is really a nuisance. I was wondering how many people use cars that can accomodate two sheets and actually use one sheet for tacking and one for reaching.

 

[Don Guillette]

Cwkemp: I can make it easier for you - and your neck!! The most important telltale on the mainsail and the one you focus on first is the TOP one and then you adjust DOWN from there. The top one is your twist indicator.

On a masthead rig you adjust the jib first. On a fractional rig it's the mainsail first.

The most important jib telltale to focus on is the MIDDLE one and then you trim UP from there. The middle one is the blade indicator or how you're cutting through the wind. Think of a wind tunnel where the smoke is even on both sides.

As you're doing, no matter how you set your main and jib they both should MIRROR each other, even if the set is crappy, they should both look the same - crappy. That way sailors on the water with you will think you really know what your doing - consistency, even if its wrong, is everything.

All kidding aside, next time you're out on the water check out how may mains and jibs mirror each other. Most jibs are twisted off so far that they are ineffective. To go one step further, go to the book stand area of your local super market (where my wife leaves me and tells me not to go anywhere else) and check out the adv's in sailing mags and see how many mains and jibs mirror each other?

Last Feb I conducted a sail trim seminar in Lake Havasu, AZ. The mate that ran the event is Sean Mulligan. He sails a 17" or 18' Montgomery and I check out his site every few days (small boat sailors are the most avid sail trim sailors I've ever run into).
Anyway, I always check out the pictures from a sail trim standpoint. I don't know how Sean does it (actually I do - he knows what he's doing) but his trim is perfect. Both sails match perfectly - in every picture - so it's no fluk.

As far as how to handle the sheets singlehanded - see my answer to Wayne!!

 

[Joe]

This may be too basic for this forum--but how do you go about the actual adjustment? If you notice the tale-tells breaking "wrong" when you tack, won't the new sheet be loaded by the time you have a chance to do something about it? When cruising, I try not to adjust a fairlead under load--I just adjust the old fairlead and try to remember to adjust the loaded one when I unload it on the next tack.

But we're just starting to try our hands at racing, and I don't think we'd much like to leave the fairlead in the wrong position for any length of time, nor would we want to throw in an unnecessary tack just to adjust the fairlead. How do you guys do it? (Assuming "cruising" style fairleads, not fancy line-adjustable racing fairleads).

To adjust without luffing you need to take the tension off the loaded sheet so you can move the car. Attach another sheet or pennant to the clew and secure it to a second car... or the toe rail... anything in front of the existing car... then ease the winched line to transfer pressure to the pennant... then adjust the lead while the presure is off....now you're ready to winch down the sheet and remove the pennant.

 

[Bill Roosa]

Or you could just go forward and lean on the jib sheet till the sheet is mostly in line with the track then pull the car forward. I assume you have discovered that pulling it back is quite easy.
If you are considering racing then you should know that there are modifications to the jib sheet lead car track (what a mouthful) to add a block and tackle system so you can pull it forward and let it slide backward while under tension and from the cockpit. Very similar to one side of a traveler block system.

 

[CHARLIE STAGE]

I have a Catalina 14.2 which I thoroughly enjoy tweaking, trimming and adjustiing everything to get the last measure of speed out of the boat and to avoid capsizing. On my Cal-33 I take my new sail out ie: a 130 I just purchased, I sail it for a few days then I mark my tracks where I find my sail trim sets best and from then on I don't do a lot of tweaking as I singlehand and as long as I am moveing nicely and the sail is not being damaged by the wind I care little about the extra tenth of a knot and more about enjoying the sail. When I raced I just yelled to the crew to do what was necessary. In response to Scott T-Bird I do have cars that carry 2 sheets, one set is reserved for my assymetrical reacher nothing more. Unless my working sheets should unexpectedly part company.

 

[Don Guillette]

To me, the worst job (but the most important on a masthead rig) on the boat is the jib trimmers because it's just a lot of hard work. At the Catalina National events I always signed up for the mainsheet/traveler position way in advance even though working the curved track traveler was no joy. Rarely were we provided a boat with a straight track traveler and it got so bad I always brought a boom vang with me because sometimes they gave us boats without one - talk about racing with one hand tied behind your back!!

The provided boats never had an adjustable fairlead system and I really got to dislike the pin type fairlead. One reason is the actual perfect setting you might want is between the holes. The main reason I didn't like the pin type was that I was the mate that had to step on the sheet forward of the fairlead so the trimmer could pull the pin and reset. The boats heeled over with a 150 so one foot isn't going to do - I needed two feet on the sheet. Invariably, the first time we'd have to adjust, the trimmer would find that the pin was rusted in place. It had not been moved since the owner bought the boat!! So I'm trying to stand in the correct position like a human fairlead hanging on for dear life while the trimmer finds a pair of pliers.

If you have the pin type fairleads, do yourself a favor and check out Garhauer Adjustable System. Even if you don't buy one it's fun to look at all the neat stuff in their catalog. Sailboatoowners.com sells Garhauer stuff. I don't know if they sell travelers and adjustables but ALWAYS check their ships store first before going to West Marine or wherever. Here's why - I'm sure you probably like the forums. It costs money to run these forums - sailboatowners.com is not St Vincent De Paul!!!!

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I bought some hardware and rigging from this site earlier this year after making the mistake of ordering it somewhere else (and then cancelling the order after lengthy delays). I won't make that mistake again (the mistake of not ordering here in the first place).

Don, you should try stepping on the sheet, adjusting the lead and racing back to the helm while sailing alone for true experience at single handing. I have a bungy to secure the wheel and if the helm is balanced reasonably well, I could manage a trip to the rail and back before the boat was too far off course. I got reprimanded in an earlier thread for not maintaining a lookout while sailing blind behind my 150 so I would sneak a peak to the leeward side as well. To make it challenging, I put my bimini up to save my head from these 90 degree days so I have to duck when diving back to the helm.

This only works if the wind is 10 knot or less, I don't want to try it alone in more wind. I only hope that if I go overboard, the boat will go head to wind before hitting the shoreline. Swimming to shore is not a problem anywhere on Lake Hopatcong ... ramming a boat house or an antique woody could be ...